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what sufferings await you, and shake your hands of this mad undertaking." By the next steamer I sailed for the Court of Siam.

      In the following pages I have tried to give a full and faithful account of the scenes and the characters that were gradually unfolded to me as I began to understand the language, and by all other means to attain a clearer insight into the secret life of the court. I was thankful to find, even in this citadel of Buddhism, men, and above all women, who were "lovely in their lives," who, amid infinite difficulties, in the bosom of a most corrupt society, and enslaved to a capricious and often cruel will, yet devoted themselves to an earnest search after truth. On the other hand, I have to confess with sorrow and shame, how far we, with all our boasted enlightenment, fall short, in true nobility and piety, of some of our "benighted" sisters of the East. With many of them, Love, Truth, and Wisdom are not mere synonyms but "living gods," for whom they long with lively ardor, and, when found, embrace with joy.

      Those of my readers who may find themselves interested in the wonderful ruins recently discovered in Cambodia are indebted to the earlier travellers, M. Henri Mouhot, Dr. A. Bastian, and the able English photographer. James Thomson, F. R. G. S. L., almost as much as to myself.

      To the Hon. George William Curtis of New York, and to all my other true friends, abroad and in America, I feel very grateful.

      And finally, I would acknowledge the deep obligation I am under to Dr.

       J. W. Palmer, whose literary experience and skill have been of so great

       service to me in revising and preparing my manuscript for the press. A.

       H. L.

      I. ON THE THRESHOLD II. A SIAMESE PREMIER AT HOME III. A SKETCH OF SIAMESE HISTORY IV. HIS EXCELLENCY'S HAREM AND HELPMEET V. THE TEMPLES OF THE SLEEPING AND THE EMERALD IDOLS VI. THE KING AND THE GOVERNESS VII. MARBLE HALLS AND FISH-STALLS VIII. OUR HOME IN BANGKOK IX. OUR SCHOOL IN THE PALACE X. MOONSHEE AND THE ANGEL GABRIEL XI. THE WAYS OF THE PALACE XII. SHADOWS AND WHISPERS OF THE HAREM XIII. FA-YING, THE KING'S DARLING XIV. AN OUTRAGE AND A WARNING XV. THE CITY OF BANGKOK XVI. THE WHITE ELEPHANT XVII. THE CEREMONIES OF CORONATION XVIII. THE QUEEN CONSORT XIX. THE HEIR-APPARENT.—ROYAL HAIR-CUTTING XX. AMUSEMENTS OF THE COURT XXI. SIAMESE LITERATURE AND ART XXII. BUDDHIST DOCTRINE, PRIESTS, AND WORSHIP XXIII. CREMATION XXIV. CERTAIN SUPERSTITIONS XXV. THE SUBORDINATE KING XXVI. THE SUPREME KING: HIS CHARACTER AND ADMINISTRATION XXVII. MY RETIREMENT FROM THE PALACE XXVIII. THE KINGDOM OF SIAM XXIX. THE RUINS OF CAMBODIA.—AN EXCURSION TO THE NAGHKON WATT XXX. THE LEGEND OF THE MAHA NAGHKON

      [Illustration: Fac-Simile of Letter from present Supreme King of Siam:

       Transcription follows:]

      Amarinde Winschley

       Palace Bangkok

       March 6th 1869

      Mrs. A. H. Leonowens

       New York

      Dear Madam,

      I have great pleasure in condescending to answer your sympathising letter of 25th November last wherein the sorrowful expressions of your heart in relation to my most beloved Sovereign Father in demise which is a venerated burden and I have left to this day and ever more shall bear this most unexpressable loss in mind, with the deepest respect and lamentation, and resignation to the will of divine Providence;—are very loyal to you too to ful, and share your grief in behalf the affection you have for your royal pupils, and the kind remembrances you have made of them in your letter, loves you too with that respect and love your are held in ther esteem, for such disinterestioness in imparting knowledge to them during your stay here with us. I have the pleasure also, to mention you that our Government in counsel has elected me to assume the reins of Government notwithstanding my juvenility; and I am pleased to see the love the people have for me, most undoubtedly arising from the respect and veneration they have had for my beloved royal Father and I hope to render them prosperity and peace, and equal measure, they have enjoyed since the last reign in return.

      May you and your beloved children be in the peace of the divine

       Providence.

      I beg to remain,

      Yours sincerely

      Somdetch Phra Chulalonkorn Klou Chow-yu Hua Supreme King of Siam on 114th day of reign

I. ON THE THRESHOLD.

       Table of Contents

      MARCH 15, 1862.—On board the small Siamese steamer Chow Phya, in the

       Gulf of Siam.

      I rose before the sun, and ran on deck to catch an early glimpse of the strange land we were nearing; and as I peered eagerly, not through mist and haze, but straight into the clear, bright, many-tinted ether, there came the first faint, tremulous blush of dawn, behind her rosy veil; and presently the welcome face shines boldly out, glad, glorious, beautiful, and aureoled with flaming hues of orange, fringed with amber and gold, wherefrom flossy webs of color float wide through the sky, paling as they go. A vision of comfort and gladness, that tropical March morning, genial as a July dawn in my own less ardent clime; but the memory of two round, tender arms, and two little dimpled hands, that so lately had made themselves loving fetters round my neck, in the vain hope of holding mamma fast, blinded my outlook; and as, with a nervous tremor and a rude jerk, we came to anchor there, so with a shock and a tremor I came to my hard realities.

      The captain told us we must wait for the afternoon tide to carry us over the bar. I lingered on deck, as long as I could dodge the fiery spears that flashed through our tattered awning, and bear the bustle and the boisterous jests of some circus people, our fellow-passengers, who came by express invitation of the king to astonish and amuse the royal household and the court.

      Scarcely less intelligent, and certainly more entertaining, than these were the dogs of our company,-? brutes of diverse temperament, experience, and behavior. There were the captain's two, Trumpet and Jip, who, by virtue of their reflected rank and authority, held places of privilege and pickings under the table, and were jealous and overbearing as became a captain's favorites, snubbing and bullying their more accomplished and versatile guests, the circus dogs, with skipper-like growls and snarls and snaps. And there was our own true Bessy—a Newfoundland, great and good—discreet, reposeful, dignified, fastidious, not to be cajoled into confidences and familiarities with strange dogs, whether official or professional. Very human was her gentle countenance, and very loyal, I doubt not, her sense of responsibility, as she followed anxiously my boy and me, interpreting with her heart the thoughts she read in our faces, and responding with her sympathetic eyes.

      In the afternoon, when we dined on deck, the land was plainly visible; and now, as with a favoring tide we glided toward the beautiful Meinam ("Mother of Waters"), the air grew brighter, and the picture lived and moved; trees grew on the banks, more and more verdure, monkeys swung from bough to bough, birds flashed and piped among the thickets.

      Though the reddish-brown water over the "banks" is very shallow at low tide, craft of moderate burden, with the aid of a pilot, cast anchor commonly in the very heart of the capital, in from ten to twelve fathoms of water.

      The world has few rivers so deep, commodious, and safe as the Meinam; and when we arrived the authorities were contemplating the erection of beacons on the bar, as well as a lighthouse for the benefit of vessels entering the port of Bangkok. The stream is rich in fish of excellent quality and flavor, such as is found in most of the great rivers of Asia; and is especially noted for its platoo, a kind of sardine, so abundant and cheap that it forms a common seasoning to the laborer's bowl of rice. The Siamese are expert in modes of drying and salting fish of all kinds, and large quantities are exported annually to Java, Sumatra, Malacca, and China.

      In half an hour from the time when the twin banks of the river, in their raiment of bright green, seemed to open their beautiful arms to receive us, we came to anchor opposite the mean, shabby, irregular town of Paknam, or Sumuttra P'hra-kan ("Ocean Affairs"). Here the captain went ashore to

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