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      PHOTO 15: Next goes the regulator support bracket. Remove it through the glass opening.

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      PHOTO 16: And finally, remove the regulator itself. It is best to remove it through the large opening at the bottom of the inner quarter.

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      PHOTO 17: There is always a hitch. In this case, I must remove the retainer in order to separate the regulator from the regulator support bracket before either can be removed from the Charger.

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      PHOTO 18: These are the reveal moldings removed from the back glass. Notice they are full of the silicone, caulk, and concrete mixture used to hold them in place around the back glass. They will require a lot of cleaning and polishing before they can be reused.

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      PHOTO 19: Glass removal tools. From left to right: plastic windshield knife used to remove gasket installed glass, a wire windshield knife used to cut adhesive-set glass free of the glass flange, and a windshield knife also used to cut adhesive-set glass free of the glass flange.

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      PHOTO 20: After some effort with the windshield knife we determined the best way to finish cutting the back glass out of the Charger is to switch to the windshield wire knife. Here we are using the wire knife to saw our way around the lower right corner of the glass.

      Remove Windshield

      Like the back glass, the windshield uses clip-on reveal moldings that must be removed before the glass will come out. Luckily for me, some past owner of my Charger chose to reinstall these moldings using only an excessive amount of silicone (most of the actual molding clips were missing) instead of the silicone/caulk/concrete solution used on the back glass moldings. I have the moldings off in less than an hour.

      Let’s talk about previous installation methods. If you suspect you have a urethane-set windshield, I suggest you call a professional to remove the glass. Go inside your vehicle and make sure the garnish moldings have been removed. If you have a urethane-set windshield, the sealant between the glass flange and the glass will be extremely firm, but not brick hard, and glossy black in color. A professional removal job should run about $40. Note: If your windshield is only a few years old, it may be set in urethane, as urethane has become the product of choice for most professionals.

      If the sealant (still looking from inside the vehicle) is soft and pliable, it should cut out fairly easily. If you decide to attempt the job yourself, I recommend using the wire knife instead of the windshield knife to cut out the glass. Remember that it takes two people to operate the wire knife properly.

      Gasket-installed windshields are another story. They come in three types: self-locking, locking bead, and nonlocking. Self-locking and locking bead gaskets are generally installed on the flange first. Then the windshield is set into the gasket and locked into place via the self-locking channel in the gasket or the installation of a locking bead into the gasket. Nonlocking gaskets are generally installed around the windshield first. Then the gasket is pulled over the flange from the inside of the vehicle, which locks the gasket in place on the flange. In the case of my Charger, the gasket is in good condition—no cracks and still pliable. The gasket is a self-locking gasket, meaning it does not use a separate locking bead to secure the glass within the gasket.

      A plastic windshield knife like the one in photo 19 is needed to unlock a self-locking gasket. This plastic tool is designed to slip into the locked gasket and open the lock, thereby freeing the windshield for removal. Warning! Never use a metal tool to remove or install glass. You will break the glass. Once the gasket has been unlocked, I like to run the plastic tool around the edge of the glass to help separate the glass from the gasket. I also go inside the vehicle and do the same thing: run the tool around the glass, between the glass and the gasket. In a case where the gasket is stiff and difficult to work with, I spray a generous amount of WD-40 between the glass and gasket to help free it.

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      PHOTO 21: The plastic windshield tool, shown in Photo 19, is used here to open the self-locking gasket around the windshield.

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      PHOTO 22: The last step before attempting to remove the windshield is to squirt WD-40 between the windshield and the gasket all the way around the windshield. WD-40 helps the glass slip out of the gasket easier and reduces the chances of glass breakage.

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      PHOTO 23: Once the glass is removed, all that remains is to clean up the mess left behind. Never use a blower to clean up broken glass. Use a vacuum for the big stuff and a small brush to get into the tight areas.

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      PHOTO 24: What are these? Mounted on the inside and around the perimeter of the back glass, these metal strips hold the headliner in place. Notice the sawtooth edges on each of the pieces—they grip the headliner and hold it firm.

      With the gasket unlocked, I push the glass out from the inside. Warning! This is the easiest way I know to break a windshield. If breakage isn’t a problem, get after it. If breakage is not a desirable option, I suggest you sacrifice the gasket by shaving off the top of the gasket (all of the gasket above the glass) using a safety razor to expose the entire windshield, instead of trying to free the windshield from the gasket by pushing it out. Then gently push the glass out of the remaining portion of the gasket.

      After removal, I store the windshield and the back glass where accidental bumping is unlikely to occur. To prevent breakage, I store glass in a vertical position—I never lay it flat.

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      PHOTO 1: The door glass seal strip also uses a spring clip. To remove the strip, gently pry the strip inward using the door trim removal tool then lift the strip straight up to remove it from the door.

       Exterior Teardown

      My Charger is looking more and more as though a bomb went off under it. But on the other hand, as the hard years are slowly peeled away and the basis for a bona fide project vehicle is carefully revealed, the Charger is actually beginning to look like something with a little promise. My next step is to begin tearing down the exterior.

      Complete Door Teardown

      I’ll start by finishing the teardown on the door. With all the glass removed from the door the outside door handle, lock cylinder, and latch assembly can be removed. Note the condition of these parts on the master checklist then store them away. Removing these parts frees the door to swing open at will, which can be an inconvenience, but if that becomes a problem I’ll slap a strip of masking tape across the door edge to hold it shut.

      The mirror, belt moldings, and window seal strips can also be removed. The mirror comes off by removing a screw located on the outside of the door and a bolt that is inside the door cavity. The door belt moldings are attached using the same type of metal spring clips found on the upper door trim panel. I remove them using the door panel tool used to remove the door trim panels. The window seal strips on the Charger are clipped to the door frame and are best removed by prying each strip inward, and then lifting the strip straight up to free it from the door.

      Remove Grille

      To

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