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Again, having extra hands for removal is a good idea. You also have to remove two additional bolts that hold the bumper guards to the rear body panel before removing the bumper.

      The bolts from the rear bumper have chrome caps. The front bumper bolts, because they are hidden under the grille surround panel, do not. I inspect the rear, chrome-capped bolts for scratches, nicks, and chips, and note those that need to be replaced. Because the front bumper bolts are not chromed, I will clean them for reuse later.

      With the bumper on the bench, I remove the mounting brackets and guards. The rear mounting brackets, like the front mounting brackets, are unfinished and, as a result, have a degree of surface rust on them.

      As long as I’m working at the rear of my Charger, I also remove the quarter extensions. They are made of pot metal and require a little bit of TLC while being removed. Then I use my door trim tool to gently pry off the attachment speed nuts, which are inside the trunk compartment.

      So what do we do with dented bumpers and bumper guards? In a word, rechrome.

      Chroming Preparation

      I tour Plains Electro-Plating, in Lubbock, Texas, the company that does all my chrome plating. At first glance, Plains Electro-Plating appears to be the final resting place for old bumpers. The lot out back is a glistening sea of bent and twisted bumpers just waiting for their chance at a new life. Inside, rooms are filled with bundles, barrels, and packages loaded with moldings, grilles, brackets, and emblems from every conceivable car ever made. Motorcycle parts control one portion of a room, while another corner is dedicated to things needing plating that we would never consider in need of plating. Certainly I am impressed by the array of items that can be plated into beauty. What I’ve really come to see, though, is the “how” part of the business, which starts with photographs and a computer.

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      PHOTO 23: How many reasons do you need to remove a worn vinyl top cover? How about rust?

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      PHOTO 24: Once all of the edges are free, you can remove the old cover by using a 1½ inch wide putty knife to separate the cover from the roof panel.

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      PHOTO 25: I roll up the old cover and put it away for now. Because of the odd shape of the Charger roof and sail panels, I keep this cover for comparison with the new one.

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      PHOTO 26: You can find the bolts for the rear bumper inside the trunk. Two additional bolts are located at the bottom of each guard. Having an extra hand during removal can be a big help.

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      PHOTO 27: As long as we are here, now is a good time to remove the quarter extensions. The attachment bolts are inside the trunk. Remove these pot metal extensions with care, as they are easily broken.

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      PHOTO 28: A true professional at the art of bumper restoration repairs the front bumper for the Charger.

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      PHOTO 29: After repairing, the first step in the plating process is a thorough cleaning. Here the bumper is being dipped into a vat of degreaser. From this point on no human hands will touch the piece being chrome plated.

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      PHOTO 30: Is it chrome yet? A bumper hangs suspended in the electrically charged vat filled with the chroming solution. The foamy solution is actually the color of emeralds.

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      PHOTO 31: Each piece receiving chrome plating is inspected, polished, and packaged for delivery.

      Technicians at Plains Electro-Plating lay out and photograph the bumpers or other parts requiring repair and chrome plating as soon as the parts arrive. Just as in restoration work, photographs tell it all. After being photographed, the parts are each assigned a work order and are entered into a computerized tracking system. Then a person issues each part a tag with a computer-generated work order number along with a short description of the type of work that it needs. I watch someone tag and note my Charger’s bumpers as it is in need of repair and chrome plating.

      The next stop is the straightening room. Here, I am treated to the expertise of a man who has repaired bumpers for more than 40 years. Being a novice myself, having a mere 20-something years of experience repairing metal, I marvel at the way the bumpers are hammered, heated, and twisted back into shape. In less than 10 minutes, my Charger’s bumpers are repaired and ready for the next phase, grinding.

      Hammers leave tracks, but technicians remove all traces of those tracks before the chrome plate goes on. Much like finish-sanding plastic body filler, the bumpers are first ground with a 50 grit grinding disc to smooth the surface of the metal and remove all signs of the hammer. After that, it is on to 90 grit, then finally, 120 grit.

      At this point, the bumpers appear ready to be chrome plated, but the straightening and grinding process is only half of the preparation. Next comes the sanding and polishing. Emery wheels beginning with 150 grit and graduating up to 220 grit accomplish this task.

      The final step in the sanding and polishing process is the burlap wheel. This coarse cloth wheel does little in the way of cutting metal, but what it does do is add a slight gloss that really defines any imperfections that may be left. Technicians return any imperfections that they find to the emery wheels for removal.

      Rechroming

      Many parts come to Plains Electro-Plating with little more damage than scratched, chipped, or rusted chrome plating. For those parts, the first step in the chroming process is to remove all traces of the old chrome plate. Technicians accomplish this by dipping the parts into a vat that electrochemically removes the old chrome.

      After that, the parts move through an array of electrically charged chemical vats beginning with a thorough cleaning and degreasing to remove all traces of contaminants. Once this process begins, no human hands are allowed to touch the parts.

      Next, technicians dip the clean parts into another vat that electrochemically coats them with a layer of nickel. The nickel acts much like a prime coat does in automotive painting, giving the chrome, which will be applied over the nickel plate, a proper surface to adhere to.

      After that, technicians dip the nickel-clad parts into the chroming vat for a few minutes, where the electrochemical chroming process takes place. When the parts come out of the vat, they are covered with a copper-colored residue left from the electrochemical process. Technicians wash off this residue to expose the bright chrome plating underneath.

      Ever notice the layer of polish on fresh chrome work? I thought this was simply residue left from putting the shine on the piece. Wrong. Technicians leave the polish on chrome-plated parts partly to help protect them during packing and shipping. But the technician’s primary purpose for applying the polish is for quality control. If something goes wrong during the chrome-plating process and the parts fail to be completely plated, an application of polish turns non-chrome-plated areas a brassy red color. Thanks to my visit with the technicians at Plains Electro-Plating, this is something I’ll know to watch for from now on: brass coloring on chrome indicates a poor job of chrome plating.

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      PHOTO 1: Drip rail moldings are fragile, so take care when removing them. The clip side of the molding is released by once again using the door trim tool and a

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