Скачать книгу

the grille assembly to its original condition, I find it needs nothing more than a little paint and a few screws. All I have to do is get the grille assembly off the car in one piece. On most vehicles, the first order of business would be to remove the bumper. Getting the bumper out of the way allows access to any grille-mounting screws that might be hidden behind it and also prevents you from damaging or scratching the grille assembly once you are ready to remove it. However, this particular model of Charger with its wraparound bumper design dictates removing the grille assembly along with the bumper, and then disassembling the entire unit on the bench. But before this unit can come off the car, I need to get those what-the-heck-is-holding-it-now parts out of the way.

      First to go is the headlamp door actuator motor, which is mounted to the center grille-mounting bracket. Remove the motor and the actuator rod, which runs through the motor and out to each headlamp door, to free the bumper assembly from the center grille-mounting bracket. To do this, unplug the motor, remove the retainer clips that are at each end of the actuator rod, and remove the motor and actuator rod as a unit.

      You can now remove the four bolts holding the bumper assembly in place on the vehicle and slide the bumper forward and off the vehicle. There are two bolts on each side of the bumper assembly, located on the mounting brackets near the core support on the frame rails or unibody frame structure.

      The Charger has a valance panel in the way, plus two additional bumper bolts that can be found by looking up from underneath each end of the bumper. These bolts are attached to brackets running out to the forward inner structure of each fender. The purpose of the brackets is for bumper-to-fender alignment, and they must be unbolted from the bumper before it can be removed.

      The valance panel is bolted to each fender (five bolts per fender) along the bottom of the core support and to the center grille-mounting bracket. Notice the parking lamps are found in the valance and must be unplugged before the panel is removed. Remove the lamps from the valance after you remove the panel from the car.

      Getting the valance panel off the car gives me better access to the two bumper-to-fender bracket bolts. I remove these bolts first and then remove the four bolts holding the bumper mounting brackets to the frame rails. This procedure requires two people—one to remove the bolts and a second to support the bumper while it is slid forward and off the vehicle.

image

      PHOTO 2: This valance panel has seen better days. But then what 30-year-old valance panel hasn’t seen better days? Despite the major damage we will eventually repair this panel.

image

      PHOTO 3: Here is the right fender with the bumper assembly removed. The J-shaped bracket is attached to the bumper and must be unbolted before the bumper can be removed from the car. Access to the bolt is from underneath with the valance panel removed.

image

      PHOTO 4: The bumper mounting bolts are found near the core support on the outside of each frame rail.

image

      PHOTO 5: With all of the bumper retainer bolts removed the bumper assembly can be slid forward and off the car. Having two people for this step really helps: one to remove the bolts, the other to remove the bumper.

image

      PHOTO 6: Bumper teardown begins with the bumper mounting brackets. There are two of these Y-shaped assemblies on the bumper, one on the right and one on the left.

image

      PHOTO 7: You can access the small bolts holding the headlamp doors in place through this small hole on the grille mounting panel.

      Since I’m talking about the valance panel, take a close look at the condition of this one. Under normal circumstances I would remove and trash this panel. However, valance panels for 1970 Chargers are hard to come by. Despite the major damage to this one, I decide to repair it. I’ll show you how later.

      With the bumper assembly removed from the car and placed face down on the workbench, I can begin disassembly. I remove the bumper mounting brackets first, and label each one’s location (right/left, inner/outer) as it’s being removed.

      Next to go are the headlamp doors. With the actuator motor and the actuator rod already removed, the doors open and close freely. When the doors are opened just enough to expose the bolts through small access ports in the grille frame, I find the retainer bolts. (See the pointer in the center of photo 7.) I remove the bolts and slide the doors free of the grille assembly.

      The grille is bolted to a grille surround panel, which is mounted to the bumper. A variety of bolts and screws attach the grille. Remove the bolts and screws, turn the entire bumper assembly over, and carefully lift the grille out.

      The grille surround panel goes next. I turn the bumper assembly back over and remove all of the remaining bolts. Note: These bolts are stove-bolt-head-type bumper bolts and are only accessible after the grille has been removed from the surround panel. The surround should lift free of the bumper once the bolts are removed. I leave the surround intact for now. I then set the surround panel aside along with the bumper mounting brackets, and photograph them. I will disassemble and refinish these parts later.

      I will remove the fenders in the very near future, so now is the time to go ahead and remove the headlamp bucket assemblies. Each bucket assembly is mounted in a specific location. I mark each assembly as I remove it (right/left, inner/outer). I do leave the adjustment/retainer screws in place because I determine that it would be almost impossible to remove these items now with the fenders still on the car, without breaking them. Since they are made of plastic and are old and brittle, I will replace them with new ones later on; but for now I prefer to have them intact.

      Remove Tail Lamps

      I begin by unplugging the lamp sockets from the tail lamp assemblies. I inspect the sockets for rust, broken wires, and anything else that might be wrong with this part of the wiring. Then I remove all of the bulbs and store them where they won’t be broken. I’ll be replacing the bulbs with new ones later, so the only reason for keeping them is to get an accurate count of how many 1157, 1156, and 1895 bulbs I’ll need when I start putting the Charger back together.

image

      PHOTO 8: With the bolts removed, I slightly turn the headlamp doors.

image

      PHOTO 9: The plastic grille is inset into the bumper assembly and must be removed from the front side. With the screws and small bolts removed, the grille will come right out.

image

      PHOTO 10: Removing the grille exposes the grille surround panel bolts. After removal, place the bumper face down and lift out the grille surround panel.

image

      PHOTO 11: Which is which and how does it go? We’re not ready to break these components apart yet, but having a photograph of the entire unit will be helpful once these pieces are broken apart for refinishing.

image

      PHOTO 12: The headlamp mounting panels are actually part of the fenders and not part of the core support. Removing the headlamp bucket assemblies is as simple as unscrewing the retainer spring and sliding the assemblies out of the adjustment screws.

image

Скачать книгу