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      PHOTO 1: Finally, the seal strip and the belt molding can be removed. The belt molding was held on with Phillips head screws while the seal strip was held on with metal spring clips.

CHAPTER THREE

       Glass Removal

      When removing glass, I prefer to start with the driver’s door. I often find broken or damaged runners, slides, glides, and rollers in the bottom of the door when I tear it down, and I don’t always know where and how each of those parts is supposed to work. Getting a look at the broken or worn-out parts fixes them in my mind so when I begin teardown on the passenger side, which is usually in better condition, I am quickly able to determine where and how each of these damaged items should work. I also take photographs.

      The Charger has manual windows, and after operating the driver’s side regulator, I decide to note this mechanism on the master checklist as badly worn. The crank handle is hard to turn and the glass has a tendency to shift in the guides as it moves up. This indicates that the regulator has seen better days so I place the regulator on the salvage parts list as well, just in case I get lucky and find a body with a good regulator still in the door.

      Remove Door Glass

      I start by rolling the door glass three-quarters of the way up and removing the C-shaped rear run channel found at the rear of the glass. Next, I unbolt the regulator by removing the four bolts holding it in place. Then I slip the regulator arm from the channel attached to the bottom of the glass and remove it from the door. Note: You have to physically hold the door glass up to prevent it from dropping to the bottom of the door as you remove the regulator. Once you’ve removed the regulator, you can allow the glass to slide slowly to the bottom of the door. Caution! Don’t let the glass drop!

      The vent glass assembly has six bolts holding it in place: two are hiding behind plastic trim buttons near the front of the door, one is located underneath the door, and the others are near the upper hinge. But that’s not all. Chrysler’s sense of humor was running rampant in 1970. It chose to hide an additional hex (Allen head) bolt behind the small access hole. I have to loosen it before the vent assembly will slide back so I can lift it up and out of the door. Note: As you lift the vent glass assembly out of the door, allow the door glass itself to travel down free of the forward run channel, which is a part of the vent glass assembly. I will disassemble the vent glass unit later, but for now let’s continue with the door glass teardown.

      The door glass has a small plastic knob located near the lower rear corner of the glass. I remove the Phillips head screw from the knob and then the knob from the glass using a pair of pliers to gently twist the knob free of the glass. Now the glass lifts up and comes out of the door.

      In photo 4, I have everything that was removed from the door laid out in the same order in which each part was removed. This photograph will help me later when I begin to assemble the door. I add all of the broken and missing parts to the master checklist.

      PHOTO 2: Glass removal begins with the driver’s door. I want a photo of the door with all of the mechanisms in place for future reference.

      PHOTO 3: Before I can remove the glass from the door, I must remove this tiny plastic knob from the glass. Once removed the glass will lift up and out of the door.

      PHOTO 4: Now where did this part go? Photos never forget. Having a photo of everything you take out of the door will be a real help a year from now when you start trying to reassemble it.

      PHOTO 5: While broken, this tiny spring is very important to the operation of the door glass. Now is the time to determine why this spring is here and how it works.

      Look at photo 5. This is a small spring that I should have found inside the rear glass channel guide. A close inspection of the other side of the channel shows a plastic guide attached to the spring. I was able to determine the exact purpose of this spring only after tearing down the passenger side of the car and looking at that spring assembly.

      The spring assembly on the passenger side is still intact and working properly. The purpose of the spring is to allow the plastic guide in photo 6 to gently tuck into an additional plastic guide on the rear run channel, securing the glass and keeping it from vibrating once it is rolled up. This is one of those details that if missed would cause the glass not to fit and work like it should once the door is reassembled.

      Remove Vent Glass

      I disassemble the vent glass assembly next. I note an L-shaped bracket. This is the lower support bracket designed to hold the front door glass run channel on the vent glass assembly in place. Welding will be required to reattach it to the vent glass assembly. I’ll do that at a later time. Note: The broken support bracket could have contributed to the poor operation of the door glass.

      Notice the small pin located at the center bottom of the vent glass. Nearly all vent glass assemblies use a pin of some sort to hold the glass assembly in place within the vent glass frame. The pin must be removed for the glass to lift up and out of the vent glass assembly. A small pair of Vise-Grip brand pliers does the trick with ease. With the pin removed, I can remove the glass pivot screw—usually located about midway up the leading edge of the glass—to free the glass from the assembly. I slide the glass up and out of the vent glass assembly and store it away.

      To polish the assembly, which I will do later, the weather stripping must be removed. The weather strip is set into a channel around the inside of the frame assembly. Gently pry it out using a small flat-bladed screwdriver.

      Remove Quarter Glass

      Note: Before disassembling the quarter glass unit, I recommend you operate and study the workings of the assembly to get a firm grasp on how the unit works. Unlike most door glass regulators, whose function is to move the glass straight up or straight down, most quarter glass regulators are designed to move the glass forward and up, then backward and down. An intricate maze of guides, runners, and channels are required for the unit to work properly. Having even a minimal grasp on how the unit works

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