LITMIR.BIZ

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of the French Museums—Unjust strictures against Napoleon's military policy—The cant about revolutionary robberies—The Grand Opera—Monuments in Paris—The Champs Elysées—Saint-Cloud—The Hôtel des Invalides—The Luxembourg—General Labédoyère—Priests and emigrants—Prussian Plunder—Handsome behaviour of the English officers—Reminiscences of Eton—Versailles.

      CHAPTER IV

      From Paris to Bruxelles—Visiting the plains of Waterloo—The Duke de Berri

       at Lille—Beauvais—Return to Paris—Remarks on the French theatre

      —Talma—Mlle. Duchesnois—Mlle. Georges—French alexandrine verse—The Abbé

       Delille—The Opéra Comique.

      CHAPTER V

      From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the

       Simplon—Auxerre—Dijon—Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone—The army of the

       Loire—Mâcon—French grisettes—Lyons—Monuments and theatricals— Geneva—Character and opinions of the Genevois—Voltaire's chateau at Ferney—The chevalier Zadera—From Geneva to Milan—Crossing the Simplon—Arona—The theatres in Milan—Rossini—Monuments in Milan—Art encouraged by the French—Mr. Eustace's bigotry—Return to Switzerland —Clarens and Vevey—Lausanne—Society in Lausanne—Return to Paris—The Louvre stripped—Death of Marshal Ney.

PART II

       Table of Contents

      CHAPTER VI

      MARCH-JUNE, 1816

      Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington—An Adventure between

       Saint Quentin and Compiègne—Paris revisited—Colonel Wardle and Mrs

       Wallis—Society in Paris—The Sourds-Muets—The Cemetery of Père La

       Chaise—Apathy of the French people—The priests—Marriage of the Duke de

       Berri.

      CHAPTER VII

      Journey from Paris to Lausanne—Besançon—French refugees in Lausanne

      —Francois Lamarque—General Espinassy—Bordas—Gautier—Michau—M. de

       Laharpe—Mlle. Michaud—Levade, a Protestant minister—Chambéry—Aix

      —Details about M. de Boigne's career in India—English Toryism and

       intolerance—Valley of Maurienne—Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at

       Suza—Turin.

      CHAPTER VIII

      Journey from Turin to Bologna—Asti—Schiller and Alfieri—Italian

       cuisine—The vetturini—Marengo—Piacenza—The Trebbia—Parma—The Empress Maria Louisa—Modena—Bologna—The University—The Marescalchi Gallery—Character of the Bolognese.

      CHAPTER IX

      Journey across the Appennines to Florence—Tuscan idioms and customs—Monuments and galleries at Florence—The Cascino—Churches—Theatres—Popularity of the Grand Duke—Napoleon's downfall not regretted—Academies in Florence.

      CHAPTER X

      Journey from Florence to Rome—Sienna—Radicofani—Bolsena—Montefiascone wine—Viterbo—Baccano—The Roman Campagna—The papal douans—Monuments and Museums in Rome—Intolerance of the Catholic Christians—The Tiber and the bridges—Character of the Romans—The Palazzi and Ville—Canova's atelier—Theatricals—An execution in Rome.

      CHAPTER XI

      From Rome to Naples—Albano—Velletri—The Marshes—Terracina—Mola di

       Gaeta—Capua—The streets of Naples—Monuments and Museums—Visit to

       Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius—Dangerous ventures—Puzzuoli and

       Baiae—Theatres at Naples—Pulcinello—Return to Rome—Tivoli.

      CHAPTER XII

      NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816

      From Rome to Florence—Sismondi the historian—Reminiscences of

       India—Lucca—Princess Elisa Baciqochi—Pisa—The Campo Santo—Leghorn—

       Hebrews in Leghorn—Lord Dillon—The story of a lost glove—From Florence

       to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis—Lombardy in winter—The

       Hospice of Mont Cenis.

PART III

       Table of Contents

      CHAPTER XIII

      MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817

      Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand—A wretched conveyance—The first dish of frogs—Society in Clermont-Ferrand—General de Vergennes—Cleansing the town—Return to Lausanne—A zealous priest—Journey to Bern and back to Lausanne—Avenches—Lake Morat—Lake Neufchatel—The Diet in Bern—Character of the Bernois—A beautiful Milanese lady.

      CHAPTER XIV

      SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818

      Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples—Residence at Naples—The theatre of San Carlo—Rossini's operas—Gaming in Naples—The Lazzaroni—Public writers—Carbonarism—Return to Rome—Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore—Mme. Dionigi—Theatricals—Society in Rome—The papal government—Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino—Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland—Pope Pius VII—Thorwaldsen—Granet—The Holy Week in Rome—The Duchess of Devonshire—From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

      CHAPTER XV

      APRIL-JULY, 1818

      Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to

       Genoa—Massa—Carrara—Genoa—Monuments and works of art—The

       Genoese—Return to Florence—Journey from Florence through Bologna and

       Ferrara to Venice—Monument to Ariosto in Ferrara—A description of

       Venice—Padua—Vicenza—Verona—Cremona—Return to Milan—The Scala

       theatre—Verona again—From Verona to Innspruck.

      CHAPTER XVI

      JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818

      Innspruck—Tyrol and the Tyrolese—From Innspruck to Munich—Monuments and churches—Theatricals—Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss—Trouble with a passport—Complicated system of Austrian money—Description of Vienna—The Prater—The theatres—Schiller's Joan of Arc—A Kinderballet—The young Napoleon at Schoenbrunn—Journey from Vienna to Prague.

      CHAPTER XVII

      SEPTEMBER,

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