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is a constant process of giving up something to get something else. Giving up some of your force makes sense, for example, if doing so allows you to checkmate the enemy king. Chapter 8 provides examples of when sacrifices are justified.

      Another key to playing chess well is the ability to recognize patterns. When you spot a pattern with which you’re familiar, the right moves suddenly suggest themselves. Chapter 9 deals with building pattern recognition in chess.

      Due to the starting lineup and the piece movement limitations, the only piece that can move at the very start of the game is the knight. So you have to move some pawns in order to get your other pieces out. The positioning of the pawns often determines the optimal positioning of the pieces. Certain pawn positions, or formations as players often call them, have occurred in so many games that they have their own names. Chapter 10 presents some of the more common ones and shows how the pawns guide you on where to put the pieces.

      Chapter 11 illustrates a number of common ways to deliver checkmate. These types of checkmates appear so often in chess games that players refer to them as mating patterns.

      There usually comes a time in every player’s development when she’s at a loss as to what to do next. Sometimes a player will see a move by a stronger player and have no idea why that move was made. At this point, the principles of play, or strategies, are necessary to make further progress. Chapter 12 provides an introduction to chess strategy.

       The militaristic character of chess is undeniable, but it also holds appeal for the confirmed peacenik. Although many of the strategies of war apply equally well to chess (divide and conquer, for example), many people gain ascetic pleasure from playing or watching a well-played game. Well-known patterns can appear with an unexpected twist and delight the observer. At an advanced level, you’ll discover harmonies that lie just below the surface of the moves, and a move that breaks that harmony will feel as discordant as an off-key note in music. So take heart, consider the information this book provides, and allow yourself to get comfortable with the pieces, their powers, and all the exciting aspects of this strategic, creative game. Besides, unlike real warfare, the worst you’ll suffer in your chess career is a bruised ego.

       Three parts that make a whole

      Players divide the chess game into three phases – opening, middlegame, and endgame – to better understand the different demands of each one, but you really need to understand the game as a whole and not just in terms of its separate parts. Otherwise, playing the game can be a bit like eating Chinese food with one chopstick.

      Here’s a quick breakdown of what each phase entails (see Chapters 13 through 15 for an in-depth look):

      ❯❯ The opening: The main objective of the opening moves is to effectively activate your forces. The term development refers to this type of activation.

      ❯❯ The middlegame: This phase is where the opposing armies most frequently clash. The terms tactics and combinations are frequently used to describe these clashes.

      ❯❯ The endgame: By this phase, the forces have been greatly reduced in number, but checkmate hasn’t yet been delivered.

       Different ways to get your game on

      If you’re the type of player who wants to be tested in competition, check out Chapter 16. Chess tournaments come in a variety of flavors, and that chapter gives you the scoop. You need to know how to act as well as how to play, so I also cover chess etiquette in that chapter.

      In this day and age, you don’t need to be physically located next to an opponent in order to play, and Chapter 17 gives the lowdown on computer chess and chess in cyberspace. Chess on the Internet has blossomed, but you need to be aware that nothing is permanent. Although the web is ever-changing, the addresses I provide have proven to be very stable, so they should take you where you want to go.

      Chessboard Chatter: Bringing Home a Board and Chess Set

      So you’ve decided all this chess stuff is up your alley. Well, first things first – you need a chessboard and chess set (the collection of chess pieces). If you don’t own a board and chess set, you can turn to Appendix B for mail-order information. You’ll find it extremely helpful to have a board and chess set on hand when reading chess books. Some people can do without one – but some people can memorize the works of John Milton, too. (And who wants to be like that?)

      In the following sections, I explain different types of boards and chess sets that are available, and I break down the layout of the board.

       Throughout this book I include numerous diagrams to help you understand the game, but they don’t take the place of a real set and board; these diagrams serve primarily to make certain your board is set up correctly. I urge you to get out your chessboard and set when you’re reading and set up the board as the diagrams show you. That way, you get a real-life view of the moves I describe.

       Finding the right board and set

      Your first challenge in finding a chessboard and set is to sort through the many available types. A tremendous range in sizes, colors, and quality exists.

      The name of the standard design, which is distinguished by the look of the pieces, is the Staunton. This design bears the name of the great English player Howard Staunton and was registered in 1849. Its popularity was so great that it was adopted as the one and only design allowed in official tournaments. If you play with strangers and bring anything other than a Staunton-designed set, people may assume that you’re trying to psych them out by using equipment that they aren’t familiar with. You probably don’t want to start off on the wrong foot.

      Wood sets and boards in the Staunton design are more popular at higher levels of competition, but a typical tournament set can be made of plastic pieces in classic white and black. The board is generally of a vinyl roll-up variety with white and green squares. “Why not black squares?” you may justifiably ask. “Headaches,” I would answer. I’ve learned that staring at a high-contrast board is not advisable. Miniature traveling sets are the only exception. It doesn’t matter what color they are, because the makers assume that you won’t be staring at them too long (especially if you’re driving!).

      If price is no object, wood pieces and boards are the way to go. Wood boards provide the most soothing background possible, and the weight and feel of wood pieces are generally far more satisfying to the touch. In case you’re really getting into chess and admire sets meant to be looked at rather than played with, collectible sets have a small cottage industry of their own, and these sets vary in design as well as in quality.

       Getting up close and personal with your board

After you pick up your soon-to-be-beloved chessboard and set, you need to get familiar with them. The first thing to notice about the chessboard is that all the squares are the same size but alternate between two colors (a light color and a darker color). Colors are important in chess (bishops are confined to only one of them, knights go back and forth between them, and so on), which is why chess players insist that a white square needs to be in the lower right-hand corner at the start of the game. Start by whipping out the board and making sure it’s facing the right direction in front of you – Figure 1-1 shows the correct orientation (if you set this book on your lap and look at the figure, you get a better idea).

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