LITMIR.BIZ

      04

      Onkel Philipps

       Toy Workshop

      PRENZLAUER BERG

      How to explain this intriguing anomaly of a shop, with its colourful, ivy-shrouded façade and piles of toys crammed into every available space? Calling it simply a ‘toy shop’ seems inadequate, while its official title (Uncle Philipp’s Toy Workshop) doesn’t quite cut it either. It certainly fulfils both these roles, of course, but it also serves as a portal to another, less contemporary Berlin....

      The store was opened in 2002 by the eponymous Uncle Philipp as a place to sell and repair toys. Fuelled partly by his annoyance at how easily East Germans were discarding their childhood toys for Western versions, a big part of his original collection was – and still is – puzzles, board games, playing cards and other curiosities from the GDR; these now mix with modern items like drum kits, remote-control cars, monster costumes, and the impressively large model airplanes that dangle cheerfully from the ceiling.

      ‘This shop lives!’ declares a sign out front; and indeed, as you explore the warren of rooms inside, it’s inevitable that you or your child will make a doll squeak or a toy dog bark, either by actively pressing it or accidentally tripping over it. On a typical day, Philipp – or his ‘muse’ Hans – can be found guiding customers through the jumble of delights, dismantling and repairing a broken toy, or simply waiting for the kettle to boil on the small stove behind the counter.

      Although the dedicated Ost-Shop in the front is where you’ll find the biggest selection of East German toys, if you ask nicely you may be handed a remote control and ushered towards the ‘secret museum’. Pull aside a sliding door to reveal a set of rickety steps that deposit you face to face with yet more ‘Ossi’ childhood memorabilia, this time presented behind glass and featuring yet more beautifully randomised juxtapositions: old dolls and badminton rackets, board games and radios. Pressing the control’s buttons will set off some activity behind the glass – inducing, more often than not, little squeals of delight. PS

      Choriner Str 35, 10435; U Senefelderplatz; www.onkel-philipp.de

      Map: North F2

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      05

      Ökowerk Nature

       Conservation Center

      GRUNEWALD

      The northeastern part of Grunewald forest is perhaps best-known for the Cold War spy station at Teufelsberg (Devil’s Mountain). But at the bottom of that manmade hill lies an equally fascinating industrial relic: the Ökowerk Nature Conservation Centre. Heralded by a 35-metre brick chimney, this former water plant, which backs onto the small but charming Teufelssee, was built in 1872 to service Spandau and Westend.

      In 1985, it was transformed into a place where adults and children alike can learn about water and explore nature in a safe, informative environment. The center comprises several restored brick buildings that used to host the plant’s handling and filtration systems. Most visitors enter through the Waldhaus (Forest Hall), which is used for events and workshops, while an adjacent Machine House hosts an impressive collection of original wheels, cogs and water tanks.

      You’ll emerge into a self-contained wonderland of gardens, orchards and ponds, connected by winding paths and punctuated with items like a clay oven and a solar cooker that children can learn to use, and a ‘barefoot garden’ full of sand. In summer the place chirrups and rasps with the sounds of insects (including mosquitoes), birds and grass snakes. Frogs grunt atop lily pads and bees hover around the abundant foliage, and the gardens boast everything from the edible – salad, ground ivy, garlic mustard – to the poisonous and medicinal, all grown for educational purposes.

      The Wasserleben (Life of Water) info center features a permanent exhibition that outlines the history of the water plant and explores all aspects of H2O. A special treat is the Reinwasserbehälter, an underground reservoir whose arched ceilings can sustain echoes for 30 seconds or more. The center offers regular tours and work-shops on topics like how to read animal tracks and a ‘survival training’ course.

      When you’re done exploring, take a dip in the Teufelssee or take the kids into the forest to play in the Sandgrube, the city’s largest sand pit, a reminder of the forest’s Ice Age roots. PS

      Teufelsseechaussee 24, 14193; S Grunewald, then Bus 19, 186 or 349 (plus 20-min walk); www.oekowerk.de

       Map: Overview C3