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and boxes, you might

       consider constructing a shop-made cradle. A cradle provides safe and

       repeatable results.

      TOOLS

      Adjustable square

      Drill

      Countersinking drill bit

      and driver

      Clamps

      1. You’ll need four pieces of

       sheet good stock to make the

       cradle. The type of sheet good

       isn’t critical—MDF or plywood

       are both good choices. The

       dimensions are also not critical;

       shown are two center pieces at

       7 x 11" and sides at 8 x 16". Glue

       the two center boards together

       at a right angle.

      2. Pilot-drill and countersink

       screws to hold the center

       boards together.

      TIP

      Countersink bits are often

       too short to drill the pilot

      hole fully into the adjoining piece.

       I like to use a separate drill bit to

       increase the depth of the pilot hole.

      36

      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      REINFORCING FLAT MITER JOINTS | Butt Joints

      3. On the inside of the center

       pieces, clearly mark the locations

       of the screws to remind yourself

       not to cut through them later.

      4. On the side pieces, draw

       two 45° lines from the center

       point.

      5. Pilot-drill and countersink for

       screws about ⅜" inside of the

       pencil lines.

      3

      4

      5

      37

      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      Butt Joints | REINFORCING FLAT MITER JOINTS

      6

      7

      8

      9

      6. Make a glue line on the inside

       of one of the side pieces and drop

       the center piece in place.

      7. Clamp the center piece in

       place.

      8. Drive screws into the

       drilled holes, making sure they’re

       countersunk below the face of the

       stock.

      9. Apply a bead of glue to

       the other side and attach it

       with screws.

      38

      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      REINFORCING FLAT MITER JOINTS | Butt Joints

      10. Turn the jig upside down

       and mark the desired center

       point for the key. On a ¾" piece,

       this would be ⅜" in from the

       inside face of the jig.

      11. Use the pencil line to locate

       the fence and jig relative to the

       blade.

      12. Depending on your screw

       placement, you may want to

       remove the lowest screws on the

       fence side of the jig to avoid any

       contact with the blade.

      13. Clamp the glued-up frame

       to the side of the jig with the

       corner fully seated in the cradle,

       raise the blade to the desired

       height, and make the cut.

      10

      12

      13

      11

      39

      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      Butt Joints | REINFORCING FLAT MITER JOINTS

      1

      2

      3

      CUTTING + INSTALLING KEYS

      Regardless of the method you use for cutting a key slot, the process

       for milling and installing the key itself is the same.

      TOOLS

      Bandsaw

      Handplane or drum sander

      Clamps

      Flush trim saw

      Sanding block or

      handplane

      1. Resaw a piece of stock to just

       proud of the desired thickness.

       The bandsaw can leave a rough

       cut, so you’ll want an opportunity

       to smooth the surface while

       bringing it down to the perfect

       thickness.

      2. Smooth the thin strip at the

       workbench with a handplane.

       Keep working until the piece fits

       into the key slot perfectly.

      3. A drum sander is a great

       power tool alternative to smooth

       and thickness the key stock.

      40

      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      REINFORCING FLAT MITER JOINTS | Butt Joints

      4. The key should slide in easily

       since it tends to swell once glue is

       added.

      5. The key stock can then be cut

       into slightly oversized triangles.

       The grain should be oriented so

       it runs perpendicular to the miter

       joint in the frame.

      4

      5

      41

      ESSENTIAL

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