Gardening for the Million - Alfred Pink

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at a temperature of about 60 degrees. The box should be nearly filled with equal parts of good garden soil and coarse silver sand, thoroughly mixed, and have holes at the bottom for drainage. Scatter the seeds thinly and evenly over the soil and cover very lightly. Very small seeds, such as lobelia and musk, should not be covered by earth, but a sheet of glass over the box is beneficial, as it keeps the moisture from evaporating too quickly. Should watering become necessary, care must be taken that the seeds are not washed out. As soon as the young plants appear, remove the glass and place them near the light, where gentle ventilation can be given them to prevent long and straggly growth. Harden off gradually, but do not plant out until the weather is favourable. Seed may also be sown in a cold frame in April, or in the open border during May; or the plants may be raised in the windows of the sitting-room.

      Tender.—These must be sown on a hotbed, or in rather stronger heat than is necessary for half-hardy descriptions. As soon as they are large enough to be shifted, prick them off into small pots, gradually potting them on into larger sizes until the flowering size is reached.

      Anomatheca Cruenta.—This produces an abundance of bright red flowers with a dark blotch and a low growth of grass-like foliage. It is suitable for either vases, edges, or groups. Plant the bulbs in autumn in a mixture of loam and peat, and the plants will flower in July. They require a slight protection from frost. If the seed is set as soon as it is ripe it produces bulbs which will flower the following year. Height, 6 in.

      Antennaria.—Hardy perennial plants, requiring a rich, light soil. They flower in June and July, and may be increased by cuttings or division. The heights of the various kinds range from 3 in. to 2 ft.

      Anthemis Tinctoria (Yellow Marguerites).—These perennials are almost hardy, needing protection merely in severe weather. They are readily raised from seed sown in gentle heat early in spring or by slips during the summer months. Transplant into light soil. As pot plants they are very effective. June is their flowering period. Height, 1–½ ft.

      Anthericum Liliago (St. Bernard's Lily).—One of the finest of hardy plants, and easy to grow. Planted in deep, free, sandy soil, it will grow vigorously, and in early summer throw up spikes of snowy-white, lily-like blossoms from 2 to 3 feet in height. It may be divided every three or four years, but should not be disturbed oftener. Mulching in early springtime is advantageous.

      Anthericum Liliastrum (St. Bruno's Lily).—This hardy perennial is a profuse bloomer, throwing up spikes of starry white flowers from May to July. Treat in the same manner as the foregoing. Height, 2 ft.

      Anthoxanthum Gracila.—Sweet vernal grass. It is graceful and ornamental, and is used for edgings. Sow in spring, keeping the seed moist until it germinates. Height, 6 in.

      Anthyllis Montana.—A fine hardy perennial for rock-work. It is of a procumbent habit, and has a woody nature. A vegetable soil is best suited for its growth, and its roots should be in contact with large stones. It may be increased by cuttings taken in spring and planted in the shade in leaf-mould. It flowers at midsummer. Height, 6 in.

      Antirrhinum (Snapdragon).—Handsome hardy perennials; most effective in beds or borders. They stand remarkably well both drought and excessive rainfall, and succeed in any common soil. Seeds sown early in spring produce flowers the same year. For spring bedding, sow in July; keep the young plants in a cold frame, and plant out in March or April. Choice sorts may be plentifully increased by cuttings taken in July or August. Flower from July to September. Height, 1–½ ft. to 2 ft.

      Ants in Gardens.--- Contrary to general belief, ants do more good than harm to a garden; but as they are unsightly on flowers, it is advisable to tie a little wool round the stems of standard roses and other things upon which they congregate. They will not crawl over the wool. A little sulphur sprinkled over a plant will keep them from it; while wall-fruit, etc., may be kept free from them by surrounding it with a broad band of chalk. Should they become troublesome on account of their numbers a strong decoction of elder leaves poured into the nest will destroy them; or a more expeditious method of getting rid of them is to put gunpowder in their nests and fire it with a piece of touch-paper tied on to a long stick.

      Aotus Gracillima.—A charming and graceful evergreen shrub, whose slender branches are covered with small pea-like flowers in May. It is most suitable for the greenhouse, and delights in a soil of loamy peat and sand. Cuttings of half-ripened wood planted under glass will take root. Height, 3 ft.

      Aphides, or plant-lice, make their presence known by the plant assuming an unhealthy appearance, the leaves curling up, etc. Frequently swarms of ants (which feed upon the aphides) are found beneath the plants attacked. Syringe the plant all over repeatedly with gas-tar water, or with tobacco or lime-water. The lady-bird is their natural enemy.

      Apios Tuberosa (Glycine Apios).—An American climbing plant which produces in the autumn bunches of purple flowers of an agreeable odour. The foliage is light and elegant. The plant is quite hardy. It enjoys a light soil and a good amount of sunshine. It may be increased by separating the tubers after the tops have died down, and planting them while they are fresh. Height, 12 ft.

      Aponogeton.—See "Aquatics."

      Apples.—Apples delight in a moist, cool climate. All apples will not succeed on the same soil, some preferring clay, while others grow best in sandy loam or in well-drained peat. For a deep, good soil and a sheltered situation the standard form grafted on the Crab-apple is generally considered to be the most profitable. For shallow soils it is better to graft on to the Paradise stock, as its roots do not run down so low as the Crab. The ground, whether deep or shallow, should receive a good mulching in the autumn; that on the deep soil being dug in at the approach of spring, while that on the shallow soil should be removed in the spring to allow the ground to be lightly forked and sweetened, replacing the manure when the dry, hot weather sets in. The best time to perform the grafting is March, and it should be done on the whip-handle system, particulars of which will be found under "Grafting." Young trees may be planted in the autumn, as soon as the leaves have fallen. Budding is done in August, just in the same manner as roses. In spring head back to the bud; a vigorous shoot will then be produced, which can be trained as desired. Apples need very little pruning, it being merely necessary to remove branches growing in the wrong direction; but this should be done annually, while the branches are young—either at the end of July or in winter. If moss makes its appearance, scrape it off and wash the branches with hot lime. The following sorts may be specially recommended:—For heavy soils, Duchess of Oldenburgh, equally suitable for cooking or dessert; Warner's King, one of the best for mid-season; and King of the Pippins, a handsome and early dessert apple. For light, warm soils, Cox's Orange Pippin or Bess Pool. The Devonshire Quarrenden is a delicious apple, and will grow on any good soil. In orchards standards should stand 40 ft. apart each way, and dwarfs from 10 ft. to 15 ft.

      Apricots.—Early in November is the most favourable time for planting Apricots. The soil—good, sound loam for preference—should be dug 3 ft. deep, and mixed with one-fourth its quantity of rotten leaves and one-fourth old plaster refuse. Place a substratum of bricks below each tree and tread the earth very firmly round the roots. They will not need any manure until they are fruiting, when a little may be applied in a weak liquid form, but a plentiful supply of water should be given during spring and summer months. The fan shape is undoubtedly the best way of training the branches, as it allows a ready means of tucking small yew branches between them to protect the buds from the cold. They may be grown on their own roots by planting the stone, but a quicker way to obtain fruit is to bud them on to vigorous seedling plum trees. This should be done in August, inserting the bud on the north or north-west side of the stem and as near the ground as possible. To obtain prime fruit, thin the fruit-buds out to a distance of 6 in. one from the other. In the spring any leaf-buds not required for permanent shoots can be pinched back to three or four leaves to form spurs. The Apricot is subject to a sort of paralysis, the branches dying off suddenly. The only remedy for this seems to be to prevent premature vegetation. The following are good sorts: Moor Park, Grosse Peche, Royal

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