Walking in Pembrokeshire - Dennis Kelsall

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      The Lily Ponds

      To return to Bosherston, cross the bridge and keep right with the waterside path towards Broad Haven. At a junction behind the beach by the foot of the Lily Ponds, turn right over a small stone bridge and continue up beside the western lake. Later, over a bridge spanning a side creek, keep right, shortly passing an abandoned brick building, an old pump house that provided water for the army camp. At a junction just beyond, go left back up to the car park.

      Above the car park and standing on the site of an even earlier building is the charming Norman church of St Michael and All Angels. Inside, under the northern transept window lies a carved tomb, thought to be the Dowager Duchess of Buckingham, while on the south side is that of a 14th-century crusader knight. The font is perhaps as old as the church, but many other ancient features were lost during restoration work in the middle of the 19th century.

      Stackpole and the Lily Ponds

Start/finish Stackpole Quay (SR 991 958)
Distance 5 miles (8km)
Total Ascent 760ft (230m)
Time 2¼hr
Terrain Coastal, woodland and field paths
Maps Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire
Refreshments The Boat House Tearoom at Stackpole Quay (NT)
Toilets Beside tearoom at Stackpole Quay
Public transport Seasonal bus service to Stackpole Quay
Parking National Trust car park above Stackpole Quay (charge)

      The second of the two walks around the Stackpole estate, this explores the particularly outstanding stretch of limestone cliffs between the old harbour at Stackpole Quay and Broad Haven beach. It then follows the eastern reach of the ornamental ponds before crossing the fields behind the headland to complete the circuit.

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      From the car park entrance, walk down behind the tearoom and bear right to find a stepped path through a break in the wall signed to Barafundle. It climbs onto the headland above Stackpole Quay, from where there is a splendid view east to Caldy Island.

      THE STACKPOLE ESTATE

      That the Vikings visited the area is suggested by its name, derived from the Norse words stac and pollr, describing an inlet beside an isolated rock, which lies provocatively off the beach. The history of settlement, however, begins in the 13th century when Elidur de Stackpole built a castle here. By the 17th century the estate was in the hands of the Lort family, passing by marriage to the Campbells of Cawdor from Scotland. It was they who built Stackpole Court in 1735, which overlooked the eastern valley for almost 200 years. However, by 1963 the great house had become uninhabitable and was pulled down by the fifth Earl of Cawdor, leaving only the stables standing. He bequeathed a large part of the estate to the National Trust on his death in 1970. The sturdy harbour was built at the end of the 18th century and used to land coal for the estate as well as providing a berth for Lord Cawdor’s pleasure yacht, the Speedwich.

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      Stackpole Quay

      An obvious path leads away across a gently undulating limestone plateau, but with all the interest lying in the cliffs below, you will be drawn to investigate every indentation and protrusion of the coast. Be very careful along this stretch of coast, particularly if it is windy or wet, or there are young children in the party, for the cliffs are precipitous. Remember also that there is no safe pedestrian access to the shore other than at Barafundle and Broad Haven beaches.

      The clifftop scenery is quite breathtaking, with spectacular blowholes, fissures and sea caves piercing the cliffs that drop 100ft (30m) sheer to the sea. The coastal walk must have been a particular favourite of the Lort family, for their name is preserved in some of its outstanding features: Lorts Cave and Griffith Lorts Hole.

      An arched stone gateway above Barafundle Bay marks the top of a staircase down to the lovely beach, a legacy of the Cawdors’ presence. Walk across the sand and climb away at the far side through a copse of sycamore trees. Follow the coast out to Stackpole Head, doubling back past Mowingword and behind the spectacular bay beyond, which is littered with huge boulders and stacks displaying every stage of disintegration. The cliffs here attract rock climbers, who scramble up and down with deceptive ease, the crashing waves below giving the challenging climbs an added exhilaration. The path winds on overlooking more impressive coves, and passing the massive depression of a blowhole.

      Eventually rounding Saddle Point, the way sweeps in above Broad Haven beach and leaves the close-cropped swathe of the headland through a kissing gate. Turn right towards scrubby sandhills, climbing parallel to a low stone wall running on the left that has become partly engulfed by the shifting sand. Over the crest, bear left and drop through the dunes to reach a path at the bottom. To extend the walk to Bosherston, go left towards Broad Haven beach, but then turn right over a small stone bridge and continue with the instructions given in Walk 3.

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      The rugged beach below Mowingword

      For Stackpole, turn right and follow the lake up to a bridge across the foot of the eastern arm. Cross and follow the lakeside to the right, shortly arriving at Eight Arch Bridge. On the far bank, a broad farm track heads away across the fields over a low hill. Ignore crossing tracks and you will eventually return to the car park at Stackpole Quay.

      The Angle Peninsula

Start/finish Freshwater West (SM 884 004)
Distance 9¾ miles (15.7km)
Total Ascent 1625ft (495m)
Time 5hr
Terrain Quiet lanes and coastal path; the return is rugged and steeply undulating
Maps Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire
Refreshments The Old Point House at Angle and cafés at Chapel Bay Fort and West Angle
Toilets At West Angle Bay
Public transport Seasonal bus service to Freshwater West and Angle
Parking Car park above northern end of Freshwater beach

      A walk of stark contrast, setting the sheltered inland-facing coast of Milford Haven against the battered high cliffs that present a shoulder to the full force of the Atlantic weather. The first half of this walk is relatively undemanding and follows the coast around the shallow inlet of Angle Bay and on through woodland fringe to Angle Point. The return, however, is fairly strenuous, the cliff path being forced abruptly up and down to negotiate deep clefts where water run-offs fall to the sea. That said, it is a splendid ramble, and on a fine day there are spectacular views all along the cliffs.

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      A waymarked

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