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What this usually means is that no-one actually comes to check the water on a regular basis to make sure it is safe for human consumption and thus, if you drink it, you do so at your own risk. To be on the safe side, fill your water bottle at your hotel or ask at a serviced hut, restaurant or farm.

Dangers and annoyances

      As mountain ranges go, the Black Forest is quite ‘civilised’ and comparatively ‘easy’. Trails are well maintained and clearly marked and the nearest village is never more than a few kilometres away. Even so, don’t underestimate the mountains – however bucolic they may seem!

      If the weather suddenly turns you may be lucky and find a shelter hut nearby, but if you get caught in a raging thunderstorm be sure to avoid seeking shelter in the observation towers (which were built at the top of many hills in the region about 100 years ago to provide views above the tree cover, and which are therefore rather vulnerable to lightening strikes!). On windy days falling branches can become dangerous projectiles, and after heavy rain mudslides and falling rocks can make hiking treacherous.

      Wild animals generally are of little concern in the Black Forest. Of the bigger mammals only wild boar poses a potential danger to humans and dogs, but they tend to avoid contact if they can. They are most active at dawn and dusk. Their senses of smell and hearing are very acute but their vision is terrible, so you’re more likely to startle them when walking very quietly. The most dangerous time to encounter them is when they are out foraging with their young; this used to be in late spring/early summer, but nowadays they find such a surplus of food that they may breed and have offspring at any time of the year.

      There have been no reported cases of rabies in Germany since 2006 and large animals are rarely seen. Far more dangerous are the tiniest critters, such as ticks, which can carry Lyme disease or TBE (tick-borne encephalitis). Ticks generally inhabit the undergrowth and tall grasses in lower elevations up to 700m, but they have also been found at 1500m (in the Czech Republic). Walking on broad forest tracks poses no risk, but when walking through tall grass it is best to tuck in the bottoms of your trousers. Tick repellent is only effective for about 4 hours; outdoor clothes can be treated with permethrin, which is highly effective, but also highly poisonous. Vigilance is the best protection – wear light-coloured clothes that make it easier to spot ticks and always perform a thorough tick check at the end of the day. If you have been bitten, seek medical assistance immediately, especially if you notice the classic symptom of Borreliosis infection – the bull’s eye rash.

      Adders like to hide beneath blueberry and cowberry bushes

      There are very few species of snakes in Germany, and those that do exist are endangered and rarely seen. One of them is the adder, which likes to soak up the sun – sometimes quite close to a trail. They don’t attack unless they feel threatened, and most will escape without you even knowing they were there. However, you or your dog or child might startle them by suddenly getting off the trail and scrambling around in the blueberries. Incidents are very rare, and there have been no confirmed fatalities in the last 10 years or so. Nevertheless, snakebites can be serious, even though the poison itself is not deadly. It affects the circulatory system, and people suffering from cardio-vascular problems, dogs, children and the elderly are most at risk. To avoid trouble, stay on the trails and keep dogs on a leash. Adder habitat (such as around Schliffkopf) is often designated as a nature reserve, where getting off the trail and berry picking is prohibited.

When to go

      It is best to plan this walk for the main walking season, between April and November. Although the lower sections will likely be perfectly passable, even in March or November, hotels and restaurants along the route are often closed during the off-season.

      Wolfsgraben in autumn (Stage 13B)

      Since the climate is not as reliable as it used to be, it has become more difficult to predict conditions. In general, spring and early summer (April–June) or autumn (September/October) tend to be the best months of the year. In spring the temperatures are pleasant and flowering meadows and blossoming orchards make for delightful scenery. September and October are often drier than the summer months, which can be hot and humid with frequent threats of heavy thunderstorms. In autumn the colourful foliage and morning fog rising from the valleys creates a special ambience. ‘Inversions’, when warm air at higher altitudes traps colder, moist air (fog) below, are a particularly delightful experience on autumn walks – so long as one is walking above the clouds, that is.

      Inversion weather: walking in the sunshine above the clouds

      Alas, Germans also tend to favour spring and autumn for their walking holidays, which means that trails can be quite busy and hotel rooms may be surprisingly difficult to find at short notice.

      The county of Baden-Württemberg is always the last to take its summer vacations and school is out until the middle of September. Thus, ‘shoulder season’ does not start until about 15 September. Note that 3 October is ‘Reunification Day’ – a national holiday and among the busiest times of the year. In spring, Easter, Whitsun and Pentecost are the busiest times for walkers.

      PUBLIC HOLIDAYS IN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG

      The number of public holidays differs between federal states. Baden-Württemberg observes the following public holidays:

      New Years Day: 1 January

      Three Kings: 6 January

      Good Friday: varies

      Easter Monday: varies

      Labour Day: 1 May

      Ascension Day: varies

      Whitsun: varies

      Corpus Christi: varies

      German Unification Day: 3 October

      All Saints: 1 November

      Christmas Day: 25 December

      Boxing Day: 26 December

      You can check specific dates of the moveable holidays at www.schulferien.org/Feiertage/Feiertage_Baden_Wuerttemberg.html

Equipment

      The basic needs of walkers are pretty much the same anywhere and vary only according to the season. The smaller and lighter the pack, the happier a walker you will be.

      Here is a list of useful items that are recommended:

       fast-drying outdoor clothing (two sets of everything)

       sun hat

       warm hat

       scarf

       gloves

       rain jacket and waterproof trousers

       fleece jacket

       gaiters (not essential, but helpful in wet weather)

       micro-fleece magic towel

       good, sturdy, well broken-in hiking boots (waterproof!)

       walking poles

       light trainers

       refillable water bottle

       lunchbox

       energy bars

       sunscreen

       sunglasses

       first aid kit (plasters/blister plasters, disinfectant, bandage)

       personal medications you may need

       tick removal kit

       insect/tick

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