The Westweg - Kat Morgenstern

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the Black Forest region, for the duration of your stay at each hotel. Even if you don’t think you’ll need it since you’ll be walking, it is worth taking anyway. It allows you to shorten a section or change your plans if the weather suddenly turns, or if you are injured or sick – or if you just want to spend some time exploring other places nearby. It might mean a bit of extra paperwork at check-in, but at least it comes with benefits. If it is not offered, ask for it! To download more information about the Konus card, go to www.blackforest-tourism.com, place your cursor on the ‘Info’ tab at the top of the page, select ‘sales guide’ and scroll down the page to the brochure entitled ‘KONUS – bus and rail for free’. (Not available in mayor towns such as Freiburg, Offenburg, Karlsruhe or Pforzheim.)

      Many hotels in the region offer luggage-forwarding services for walkers who don’t want to carry their own gear. This is a very convenient service, but it does not necessarily come cheap – especially if the next accommodation is a long way by car. While the distance between one hotel and another ‘as the crow flies’, or in this case ‘as the hiker walks’, is usually relatively short, going up and down and around a lot of little mountain roads can take a long time and racks up quite a few miles. You may be looking at €10 to upwards of €20 per person, although some places charge less if a whole group of people all want their luggage delivered to the same place.

      If you really hate carrying gear you can arrange the luggage forwarding yourself. Simply ask when booking your room whether the service is available and how much they charge; that way you can decide each day whether you want to carry your luggage yourself or use the service. (Some sections of the trail are a lot harder than others!)

      Another possibility is to pre-book the whole tour, or parts of it, with both accommodation and luggage-forwarding service included. Check www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info for details.

      The Black Forest is a well-established tourist region with a wide range of accommodation to choose from – in most places. However, Westweg has been routed to avoid villages as much as possible. While there are some simple guesthouses that lie directly on, or very close to the trail, sometimes there is not a lot of choice and pre-booking is definitely recommended. If you are likely to arrive after 6pm at your accommodation it’s a good idea to call and let them know.

      Some hotels that do not lie directly en route may offer a free transfer from and to the trail. Ask at the time of booking.

      When arranging your trip, keep in mind that Westweg is a popular route and the Black Forest is an extremely popular walking destination. During peak hiking season, in spring and autumn, pre-booking is essential.

      The accommodation listing included in Appendix B; is not exhaustive, but presents a selection of the most convenient places. For further options check the village/town website, or the accommodation listing (Gastgeber Verzeichnis) at www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info.

      Note that not all guesthouses take credit cards and ATM machines may not be available nearby.

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      Alter Rabe guesthouse (Stage 8)

      Camping

      There are many basic shelter huts sprinkled throughout the Black Forest, and theoretically it is possible to camp at these overnight. Wild camping is tolerated for one night ‘if the walker is in need’ – however, this regulation can be open to interpretation. Basically, the huts are meant for shelter in case of bad weather or as picnic huts for day-trippers. The forest warden can decide to send campers packing – or not – depending on his mood, or on the conduct of the prospective campers. The basic shelter huts are not exactly comfortable and only a few of them have sleeping platforms. Making a fire anywhere other than at designated grill places is prohibited.

      Regular, serviced campsites can also be found throughout the region, however, there are almost none in the immediate vicinity of the trail.

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      Rustic picnic huts offering basic comforts are sprinkled amply throughout the region

      Pforzheim

      With only 120,000 inhabitants, Pforzheim is a rather small and sleepy town which was almost completely destroyed during WWII. The new town that sprang up in its place has all but lost the historic character. However, there are a few interesting museums (most notable is the museum of jewellery – www.schmuckmuseum-pforzheim.de) and the World Heritage site of Maulbronn Abbey (www.kloster-maulbronn.de) is only 30min away by public transport, if you happen to find yourself there a day early and are looking for things to do.

      Unfortunately there are not a lot of recommendable hotels. The Parkhotel, located near the confluence of the rivers Nagold and Enz, is the best choice in town. However, this hotel serves as the hospitality hub for convention guests, as it is located right across from the convention centre. For less expensive options look for small Landgasthaus (country inn) or Pension (B&B) in nearby villages. If you want to expand your trip to include a bit of culture, you might like to consider spending a couple of days exploring the beautiful historic spa town of Baden-Baden, which is only about 45min away by local train.

      Basel

      At the opposite end of the trek lies Basel, known as the ‘Tri-Region City’, which is to say that the urban area of Basel merges Swiss, French and German parts across the borders, due to their common, shared heritage. Basel is a buzzing university town as well as an ancient bishopric centre, although today it is best known for its pharmaceutical industry.

      Although industry along the Rhine is quite intense, Basel manages to preserve a lot of charm, especially in the old town centre. It is well worth spending a little extra time here if your schedule permits, to soak up the lively atmosphere and visit some of the excellent museums and galleries.

      There are many hotels, inns and B&Bs in and around Basel. The area around Badischer Bahnhof is not exactly pretty, nor centrally located, so it may be better to look for a place on the shores of the Rhine, in the old town (south of the river) or nearer the SBB train station, from where it is also easy to catch the bus to the airport. However, Swiss hotel prices can be steep. For more budget-friendly options look for a place in Lörrach, just across the border in Germany, only a short tram ride away from the town centre.

      On most (but not all) sections, you will be able to find serviced huts or cafés/restaurants along the way. Hotels usually have a restaurant on the premises, but some types of guesthouses (Pension) do not. Some Schwarzwaldverein huts are only open on weekends and public holidays during the main hiking season. Restaurants often take their day off (Ruhetag) on Mondays, Tuesdays or Wednesdays. Thus, it is always a good idea to bring some supplies – squirrel away an extra sandwich and pack some fruit from the breakfast buffet, or ask for a lunchbox before heading out.

      Those following a special diet, such as gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan or vegetarian, may find their options severely limited. Although most better restaurants offer at least a couple of vegetarian alternatives, it is best to check your options before you get there. Many restaurants will be happy to accommodate you if they know your requirements in advance, but don’t expect to find multiple choices for non-traditional diets on the regular menu. For an explanation of certain regional food items, see the glossary in Appendix D.

      Water

      The importance of plentiful hydration cannot be stressed enough. In general, the Black Forest is a water-rich area and there are many public water fountains. Unfortunately, they often display signs

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