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for oyster is soy sauce blended with fish sauce.

      Palm sugar Nicknamed the “maple sugar of the tropics,” palm sugar is made by boiling down the sap of the coconut palm tree or sugar palm tree. It has a light caramel color and tastes a bit like maple syrup with a slightly smokier taste. It is commonly sold in a solid disc or block, but it is also available granulated or in a paste. Solid palm sugar should be grated, shaved, or melted before adding it to sweets, drinks, curries, and other dishes. Palm sugar is increasing in popularity throughout the U.S. If you can’t get your hands on any, then dark brown sugar or maple syrup makes a good substitute.

      Roasted red chili paste (nam prik pao) Roasted red chili paste is a blend of ground red pepper and other ingredients like garlic, shallots, dried shrimp paste, and tamarind. Intense and complex, it is packed with so much flavor that a little goes a long way. A staple of Thai cuisine, it is featured in soups, sauces, stir-fries, and rice dishes. It can also be enjoyed on its own as a lively dip or spread.

      Sambal oelek is a fiery red chili-garlic paste used as a condiment and cooking ingredients all over Malaysia and Thailand. Traditionally, little more is added to the chilies than water, salt, garlic, or vinegar. Sambal oelek adds significant heat without overpowering the other flavors in a dish.

      Sriracha sauce traditional Sriracha sauce is a hot chili paste named after the seaside town where it originated. The most popular Sriracha sauce in the United States is Huy Fong Sriracha hot Chili Sauce, affectionately known as “Rooster Sauce” because of the picture of the rooster on the bottle. Made from red jalapeño chilies, vinegar, garlic, sugar, and salt, it has a rich, complex flavor and significant heat. Many fans of Srircha don’t limit it to Thai food—they put it on everything from eggs to pizza and more. Kikkoman also produces a Sriracha sauce available at grocery stores.

      Dried glass noodles Also known as cellophane noodles, bean thread noodles, and Chinese vermicelli, these delicate thread noodles are made from green mung bean flour. Dried glass noodles are presoaked in hot water for a few minutes before cooking, unless they are added to a soup or deep-fried. Like tofu, bean thread noodles absorb the flavors of the other ingredients in a dish.

      Rice noodles Thin or wide, flat or round, rice noodles come in many shapes and sizes. Made from rice flour and water, rice noodles are available dried or fresh. Dried rice noodles can be presoaked and softened in hot water before cooking, or they can be dropped directly into hot oil for crispy noodles—for a dramatic “explosive” effect. Packaged fresh noodles are usually coated with oil to prevent clumping, so you might want to give them a rinse before cooking.

      Rice sticks come in a variety of widths. Thin sticks work well for soups and steamed noodle dishes. Wider rice sticks are ideal for stir-fries like the ever-popular pad Thai. Most commonly sold dry, rice sticks start out opaque and become transparent when soaked in water. Fresh rice sticks can be found in any Asian market.

      Rice vermicelli noodles Also known as rice threads, vermicelli rice noodles are usually sold dried and in a block. The noodles should be presoaked when being used in spring rolls, stir-fries and salads. They can also be dropped straight from the package into soups or into hot oil to make crispy noodle dishes like mee krob.

      Flat wide rice noodles Wider than rice sticks, these noodles are most famously used for Thai Flat noodles (page 104) a popular stir-fry dish made with thick brown gravy, broccoli, and a protein like meat, seafood or tofu. Also known as river noodles, they hold up better in heavy gravy than thinner noodles. They’re sold fresh or dried.

      Rice paper wrappers Rice paper is made by mixing white rice flour and water, then spreading the mixture out into thin sheets and steaming them or sun-drying them. Rice paper serves as the wrap for spring rolls and other rollups like summer rolls. Before using rice paper it must be moistened in warm water or by carefully holding them over steam.

      Sticky rice (sweet or glutinous rice) a beloved staple in Thai cuisine, sticky, sweet or glutinous rice is a medium to long grain variety of rice that becomes sticky when cooked. Traditionally steamed, not boiled, sticky rice is used in both sweet and savory dishes, and is usually eaten by hand in Thailand.

      Tamarind is the pod-like fruit of the tamarind tree. There are two varieties of tamarind: tart and sour-sweet. Fresh tart tamarind is eaten with salt and chili, or chopped into chili paste. The pulp of tart tamarind is often added to soups, curries, sauces, and stir-fries. Sour-sweet tamarind is mostly used in making desserts and candy. Its flavor can be described as a cross between a date, sour-sweet guava, and an apricot. Tamarind concentrate or paste is available in jars, bottles, and solid blocks. Tamarind concentrate is mixed with water to create tamarind water. A substitute for tamarind concentrate or paste is date purée mixed with lime juice or combine equal parts vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar.

      Turmeric found in most kitchens is the powdered form made from the turmeric root, which looks a lot like fresh ginger. Turmeric powder has a deep yellow color and a lovely rose aroma. It is used in curries, marinades, rice dishes, and when pickling. Turmeric powder is a powerful natural dye so handle it with care because it can permanently stain clothing. Prized in its own right, turmeric powder also makes an inexpensive alternative to saffron when combined with ground clove, cardamom, and cinnamon. Fresh turmeric is also available, but it can be a little bitter.

      Spring roll wrappers can be found at Asian markets and come in 4-inch (10 cm) or 8-inch (20 cm) squares. They fry up light and crispy and are used for the Banana Spring Roll (page 138) in this book.

      Star anise is the seedpod of a small tree found throughout Asian. The star-shaped spice has a warm, rich and pungent aroma of licorice, cinnamon, and clove. The actual seeds inside the pod are tiny, black and have no flavor. Used whole to add a subtle aroma or ground for maximum flavor, star anise is a popular ingredient in soups, curries, sweets and teas. A substitute for star anise is a blend of ground cloves and cinnamon.

      Straw mushrooms get their name because they are cultivated on beds of straw. They are actually shaped like little helmets and have a delicate, sweet flavor. They are the most widely used mushroom in traditional Thai cooking and are added to soups, curries, stir-fries, and more. Fresh straw mushrooms can be hard to find in the United States, but the canned variety are available at most Asian markets.

      Yard-long beans or long beans Summertime brings an abundance of fresh long beans, or yard-long beans, to Asian markets. They get their name because they really can grow to be about a yard in length. Long beans look and taste a bit like regular green beans, but their taste, texture, and juiciness don’t hold up as well when boiled or steamed. They really come alive when stir-fried or deep-fried. If you can’t find yard-long beans, you can substitute with fresh green beans.

      Yellow bean paste also known as soy bean paste or yellow bean paste, yellow bean paste is made from fermented sweet yellow soybeans. Yellow bean paste adds a light, malty flavor to noodle dishes and curries. You’ll only need this ingredient to make Thai Flat noodles (page 104). I like the healthy Boy brand with a drawing of an adorable little boy on the label.

      The Basics

      While traveling throughout Thailand you will notice that all of the restaurant tables are filled with various condiments from fish sauce to vinegar and chili sauce. You see, Thai people like to pour a “little of this here” and top with “a little of that there” until they’ve created their perfect balance of sweet, sour, hot, and salty, according to their palate

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