Shunju - Takashi Sugimoto

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can be substituted with any kind of hard clams.

      1 Place all the ingredients, except for soy sauce and chopped fugu negi, in a saucepan and heat covered over high heat for 5 minutes.

      2 Open the lid to check if all the clams have opened. If not, heat for a few more minutes. When all the clams have opened, stir in the soy sauce. Discard any clams that do not open.

      3 Place the opened clams in a serving bowl with the broth, and garnish with chopped fugu negi.

      Char-grilled Maezawa beef

      Maezaw a gyu no kinome miso yaki

      Serves 4

      4 1/2 tablespoons sake

      4 1/2 tablespoons mirin

      4 teaspoons sugar

      13 oz (400 g) saikyo miso (a sweet white miso from Kyoto), substitute with shiro miso (white miso)

      6 1/2 oz (200 g) shiro miso (white miso)

      13 oz (400 g) kinome (young sansho leaves), ground in a mortar and pestle (leave some whole to garnish)

      12 oz (360 g) Maezawa beef tenderloin or sirloin

      2 pinches natural sea salt

      2 pinches freshly ground black pepper

      Although Kobe beef is the most famous marbled beef from Japan, many other regions produce equally wonderful, if not better, meat such as Maezawa beef, Yonezawa, and Iga. Kinome, or young prickly ash leaf, is mixed with sweet miso as a flavoring for Maezawa beef in this recipe.

      1 Bring sake and mirin to a boil in a saucepan boil for 1 minute to burn off the alcohol content.

      2 Place both types of miso in a separate saucepan and heat over low heat, then pour in the sake, mirin, and sugar, stirring with a wooden spatula to prevent it burning. Remove from the heat and cool.

      3 Stir the ground kinome into the cooled miso, mixing well to form a paste.

      4 Skewer the beef with four skewers and sprinkle with salt and pepper. When the beef is warmed to room temperature, grill over charcoal or broil under an oven grill. Spread the paste on the browned side and grill briefly to brown, then grill the other side to your liking.

      5 Slice the beef into 4 serving slices and arrange on a platter garnished with fresh kinome leaves.

      Spanish mackerel grilled with citrus sauce

      Sawara no yuzu fumi yaki

      Serves 4

      1 cup plain sugar syrup

      1/2 cup water

      4 kinkan (kumquats)

      6 1/2 tablespoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)

      6 1/2 tablespoons mirin

      6 1/2 tablespoons sake

      Zest from 1/2 yuzu (Japanese citron), substitute with 1 lemon, grated

      4 fillets Spanish mackerel, about 4 oz (120 g) each, cut in three-section fillet (see page 244)

      8 kogomi (fiddleheads), total about 2 oz (60 g), blanched in salted water, then refreshed in cold water (optional)

      Sawara, or Spanish mackerel, is caught in the Inland Sea from April to June and makes excellent grilled fish. In Kyoto, it is cured in sweet saikyo miso for one day and grilled. We have marinated it with yuzu, a fragrant Japanese citrus fruit.

      1 Put 1 cup plain sugar syrup and 1/2 cup water, and the whole kumquats, in a small saucepan, and bring to a gentle boil, then simmer for 5 minutes.

      2 Place soy sauce, mirin, and sake in a saucepan and heat over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and cool.

      3 Add grated citron zest to the cooled sauce and pour over the fish, then leave to marinate for 3 or 4 hours.

      4 Remove the mackerel from the marinade, skewer each slice with 2 metal or bamboo skewers (soaked in water), and grill on a charcoal grill or broil under an oven grill, taking care not to burn the fish.

      5 When nicely browned on both sides and thoroughly grilled, arrange each fillet on a serving platter and garnish with poached kumquats and blanched fiddleheads.

      Sea bream rice

      Tai meshi

      Serves 4

      2 cups (440 g) Japanese rice, washed (see page 261 for washing instructions)

      2 3/4 cups (700 ml) katsuo dashi (bonito stock) (see page 248)

      1/2-in (5 g) very young ginger, peeled, cut into fine slivers and refreshed in water

      4 teaspoons usukuchi shoyu (light soy sauce)

      4 teaspoons mirin

      1 small sea bream, about 10 oz (300 g), scaled, gutted, washed, and patted dry

      10 kinome (young sansho) leaves

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