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      Traditional Japanese cuisine is noted for its elegant simplicity and exquisite purity of taste, method, and appearance. Here at Charlie Trotter's we have practiced and appreciated the minimalistic Japanese approach for many years—in the use of Japanese ceramics, flavorings, and even fresh fish from Japan. It was for this reason that I was so excited to learn of this new cookbook from Tokyo's pioneering restaurant group.

      The Shunju restaurants created by Takashi Sugimoto and Marcia Iwatate epitomize the aesthetic of their country to such an extent that they have almost single-handedly created a revolution in Japanese cooking akin to the "new cuisine" movements that swept France, the United States, and Australia during past decades.

      Like most revolutions, Shunju's is rooted in the past but looks to the future. It represents a return to the essence of Japanese cooking—beginning with a search for the finest ingredients, including freshly-caught fish, organically-grown seasonal vegetables, and free-range, hormone-free meat and poultry. It eschews processed industrial foods and the overwrought fine dining preparations that have become all too commonplace in Japan as elsewhere—in favor of a truly modern (and at the same time truly traditional) approach to dining. Back to basics but also forward to a new awareness.

      The other thing I appreciate about Shunju is the superb "traditional meets modern" Japanese interiors and the emphasis on savoring a meal slowly with friends over glasses of fine sake, shoju, and herbally-infused tonics.

      The recipes and photos on these pages are truly a delight for all the senses. This marvelous work will inspire amateurs and professionals alike.

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