The Art of the Japanese Sword - Yoshindo Yoshihara

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and scabbard act as a brake, so that initially the sword can move only a short distance out of the scabbard.

      The loosened sword is now partly out of the scabbard. Notice that the right hand and right thumb are in contact with both the hilt and the scabbard.

      The sword should slide out of the scabbard only on its unsharpened back surface (the mune). Care should be taken to slide the blade along the mune when it is replaced in the scabbard as well.

      Yoshindo uses the flat face of a traditional tool called a mekugi-nuki to begin pushing the bamboo mekugi out of the hilt. The end of the mekugi protrudes slightly above the surface of the hilt, so this action loosens it.

      Once the mekugi is loosened, Yoshindo can use the pointed end of the mekugi-nuki handle to push the rivet completely out of the hilt.

      When the mekugi is out, the hilt can be removed. To accomplish this, hold the blade nearly upright, with one hand gripping the hilt tightly. Form a fist with the other hand and use it to strike the wrist of the hand gripping the sword. This should make the tang of the sword jump slightly out of the hilt. Once the tang is loose, it will be possible to grip the upper part of the tang and remove the blade from the hilt entirely. The habaki (blade collar) can then be removed: it will usually simply slide down and off the end of the tang.

      When the sword is out of the scabbard and the mekugi has been removed, the blade is removed from the hilt. The blade is held almost vertically upright in the left hand. While the left hand holds the hilt, the right hand forms a fist and strikes the left wrist at the base of the left hand. This should loosen the sword from the hilt.

      After a few gentle strikes with the right fist, the sword should begin to move. The blade is now a couple of inches (5 cm) out of the hilt.

      Once the sword is far enough out of the hilt, the bare tang of the sword can be grasped, and the sword can be completely removed from the hilt.

      After the blade is removed from the hilt and scabbard, it is wiped with tissue or soft Japanese paper to remove any oil or dust from the blade. Notice that Yoshindo has wrapped the paper around the blade from the unsharpened back surface, and is wiping the blade from the tang toward the point. The blade should always be wiped or cleaned in this direction. Wiping the blade in the opposite direction, from the point toward the tang, is not a good idea. The curvature of the blade increases the likelihood of being cut.

      After the scabbard, hilt, and habaki are removed, the blade must be cleaned to allow a clear view of the surface. This cleaning will remove any dust or dirt on the blade, while also removing the thin layer of oil previously left on the blade to protect it from corrosion.

      First, wipe off the surface with a clean piece of Japanese washi paper or tissue paper. Holding the paper around the blade from the back unsharpened surface, move it along the blade from the base toward the point. After reaching the point area, remove the paper, replace it near the base of the blade, and move it forward again. Avoid moving the paper and wiping the blade in the opposite direction (from point to tang). Human reflexes and the curved shape of the blade make it very easy to unintentionally grip the blade and cut one’s fingers if it is wiped in this direction.

      After the blade has been cleaned of oil and dust, it is next dusted with uchiko. This is a very fine abrasive and absorbent powder that will remove any dust or moisture from the blade’s surface.

      Items used to maintain and clean a sword. 1. Clove or camellia oil. 2. Uchiko wrapped in two layers of fabric. 3. Handmade Japanese washi paper used to wipe swords (plain facial tissue may also be used). 4. A small square of cotton cloth used to hold the oil. 5. The mekugi-nuki hammer used to remove the bamboo pin that secures the sword in the hilt.

      Yoshindo dusts the entire blade with uchiko powder.

      The uchiko is wrapped, first in a layer of cotton and then in a layer of fabric, and tied at its base to form a ball. The fabric trailing from the end of the ball gives it a lollipop-like shape. Holding the trailing fabric, gently tap the uchiko ball along the surface of the blade, leaving a fine layer of white powder behind on the blade surface. Both sides of the blade must be dusted.

      Next, use a clean sheet of paper to wipe off the uchiko powder. Move the paper from the base of the blade towards the point in exactly the same manner as was used to initially wipe off the blade. Again, it is best to only move the tissue from the base of the blade to the point. After the uchiko powder is wiped off, the surface of the blade should be very clean, with all traces of dust and moisture removed. At this point, the blade surface can be examined in detail, while noting distinguishing features of the hamon and jigane as described earlier.

      When the blade has been wiped off, Yoshindo dusts it with a very fine powder called “uchiko.” This is used to clean the blade thoroughly so that the surface details are easily visible. The uchiko powder is wrapped first with cotton, then with fine fabric, giving it a lollipop shape.

      After viewing, the blade is coated with a fine layer of oil to protect it. A small piece of oil-soaked cloth is wiped over the blade from the back surface only, and in one direction only, from the tang toward the point, leaving the surface coated with a very thin layer of oil.

      After being dusted with uchiko, the blade is wiped with soft paper to remove the powder. The uchiko is a very fine absorbent, and after it is wiped off the blade, all dust and traces of oil and moisture will be removed. As before, the blade is wiped from the unsharpened back surface, and in one direction only, from the tang toward the point.

      After the blade is viewed, it should be cleaned again before being replaced in the scabbard. This is because dirt, dust, fingerprints, saliva droplets, or other moisture left on the surface will damage the blade while it is sheathed. Any foreign substance left on the blade, or any contact between bare skin and the blade, will produce a rust spot in just a few hours. The blade should therefore be wiped again, dusted with uchiko, wiped off, and coated with a thin layer of oil (usually Japanese clove oil or camellia oil).

      The tang is replaced in the hilt.

      Once the hilt is replaced and the bamboo rivet secured, the sword is returned to the scabbard. The point is carefully put into the mouth of the scabbard along its back surface, with the cutting edge facing up.

      The sword is about halfway

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