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buffalo plummeted and almost reached extinction, Cody championed their preservation and he wasn’t the only one.

      In my year-long undertaking to travel the West to research its historical origins and to interview those living intentionally, or otherwise, in its long shadow, I had to take into account the large role the land and wildlife played, and I figured the Genesee buffalo herd was a good place to start. Like the fingerprints at a crime scene, the Old West has left its mark in subtle ways across the region, and there would be no better example of that than what I was about to see.

      It is May in Colorado. By the time I reach my destination, it is raining. Large, heavy clumps of snow slough off from the trees, landing with loud thumps on the ground. Beneath the snow, thick mud cause my truck tires to spin and struggle to gain traction as I reach the forested parking lot. Soon Shannon Dennison pulls up in her car, and I get out in the rain and almost knee-deep slush to introduce myself. Dennison wears a black knit hat with TETON embroidered on it and a red Grand Teton jacket proudly displaying her background at the Wyoming national park. She is the Cultural Resources Administrator and Buffalo Bill Museum Director for the City and County of Denver’s Mountain Parks. She agreed to meet with me and show me the iconic Genesee buffalo herd.

      Maintained by Denver for more than one hundred years, the buffalo herd, technically called American Bison, roam by the road to the Rockies along Interstate 70 on the way to the state’s ski resorts. The sight of the herd of about thirty bison rings as a melancholy reminder of the systematic eradication of the giant animal. Once seen in the millions, the American Bison almost went extinct because of European American settlers. During Buffalo Bill Cody’s time, the bison were shot and killed to provide food for the crews building the railroads, for sport, and to remove an essential food source for Native American tribes so the government could more easily control them.

      Denver’s mountain park system was developed in 1912 with the purpose to make sure the city still had a link to the Old West. It must have been fairly obvious to the city’s leaders that the time period was rapidly fading; its participants were almost gone and then even Cody’s Wild West would soon be a memory.

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      An American Bison or “buffalo” herd, maintained by the City of Denver, wanders a snowy field in Genesee, Colorado. (Photo by Ian Neligh)

      “Bison were a huge part of the American West, and so I think the two strongest motivations [for the park to take action] were conservation and also making sure that people had that tangible connection to the Old West and Denver’s identity,” Dennison says.

      Matthew Brown, the bison caretaker for the Genesee herd, pulls up in his pickup and Dennison and I climb into the cab. Brown, in a worn Carhartt jacket and blue jeans, lives in a home with his family on the 580 acres that house the bison herd. He navigates the truck up a snow-clogged dirt road to a gate, hops out to open it, and drives through, then goes out and closes it behind us.

      “We had five calves [born] yesterday and possibly more last night—but I haven’t gotten a full count on them,” Brown says, climbing back up into the truck. The herd is one of two the city maintains. The other, a smaller group, is located at Daniels Park about thirty-four miles away. When the city was gathering the original herd of bison, it was collected from a variety of locations, including from the bison herd then living near Yellowstone National Park. DNA tests reveals the Genesee herd is directly connected to the rare original American Bison herds.

      “They were almost gone, they were almost extinct,” Brown says as we drive past the animals. “[Denver] wanted to help preserve a piece of the American Wild West and help save this species of animal.”

      Brown would be the first to admit that bison are a little “ornery.” The much larger Yellowstone Buffalo herd, which roughly numbers about five thousand, sees visitors gored every year after getting too close. However, since Yellowstone was founded in 1872 only two people have ever been killed.

      “We keep a close eye on these fences. That’s always an issue we have with the public and the animals,” Brown says. “The public just doesn’t know to stay three feet away from the fence, because that fence will stretch three to five feet before it snaps.”

      While incidents at the Genesee herd are almost unheard of, people do occasionally get too close to the fence to grab a selfie, causing a few nonlethal close encounters.

      “You keep ’em fed, keep ’em watered, and you keep ’em happy, and they’ll stay in,” Brown says. “These fences here are merely to keep people away from them, and if [the bison] wanted to leave they could open these fences up like a wet paper bag and they’d be in the next county by sunset.”

      Then after a second Brown adds, “They can push through almost anything—they can push over a truck like this without even thinking about it.”

      I think about this with growing apprehension as we drive by a few more of the bison regarding us idly from the side of the small road cutting through the property.

      “People often think that they’re much like cattle and the cow can move quickly if it wants to—but these animals will start to charge like that,” Dennison says, snapping her fingers. “And they can really surprise you if you are not prepared.”

      Brown says despite being in captivity, the bison hold onto their wild nature to where they could be dropped off in the wild and would have no issue surviving on their own. For example, the herd will form into circles with the bulls protecting from the outside when there’s a threat from a coyote. Interestingly, if one is cut and bleeding, the others will roll in the blood, likely to confuse potential predators about which one is actually wounded.

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      Buffalo caretaker Matthew Brown stands next to the original railroad crates used in 1912 to move the bison from Yellowstone to Colorado. (Photo by Ian Neligh)

      “You get to learn their body language, and when they start licking their lips they’re starting to get irritated; when their tail starts to go up, they’re mad—and then when that tail turns into a question mark, it’s coming,” Brown says. “When you’re close to them and they start tracking with one eye … you either start looking for a truck, a tree, or start thinking about climbing the fence. You really don’t realize how fast you can run until you have a nine-hundred-pound cow behind you. When she’s close enough and you can hear her panting and snorting, it gets your heart rate going a little bit.”

      We end up in a storage barn on the property, which holds several of the original wooden crates used to ship the buffalo by train down from Yellowstone more than one hundred years ago. The crates were believed to be originally used by Buffalo Bill Cody’s Wild West show when transporting their own bison herd around the country, and later reused for the Denver herd. The crates are crude, even cruel, and narrower than one might expect—but they were ultimately successful in recreating a buffalo herd on the Front Range.

      “Denver wanted to preserve a piece of the Wild West and raise bison for people to come up from Denver to look at—and to help protect these magnificent animals,” Brown says.

      Beautiful and dangerous, they belong in the West and they’re absolutely magnificent. But while most people try to give the region’s largest living animal the space it needs to live in the new West, there are some who put on cowboy boots and try to ride their distant and equally dangerous cousins for sport.

      CHAPTER 2

      THE BULLFIGHTER

      Spending more time in the air than on the ground, the bull is a spinning two-thousand-pound nightmare of hooves and horns. The rider hangs onto the back with one hand to what is essentially a homicidal centrifuge. The state fairgrounds in Pueblo, Colorado, the packed and roaring stadium, the blaring music, fellow cowboys—everything is a blur of bucking insanity. Then it happens: the whiplashing rollercoaster ends and the rider is flung loose, legs kicking, to drift through space above the rodeo grounds and away from the bull, his

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