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sometimes along the margin of long stretches of velvety grass, fresh and green and bright, a tireless charm to the eye. And the birds!--they were everywhere; they swept back and forth across the river constantly, and their jubilant music was never stilled.

       It was a deep and satisfying pleasure to see the sun create the new morning, and gradually, patiently, lovingly, clothe it on with splendor after splendor, and glory after glory, till the miracle was complete.

       How different is this marvel observed from a raft, from what it is when one observes it through the dingy windows of a railway-station in some

       wretched village while he munches a petrified sandwich and waits for the

       train.

       A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 3.

       By Mark Twain (Samuel L. Clemens) First published in 1880

       Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition

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       ILLUSTRATIONS:

       1.A A A PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR

       2.A A A TITIAN'S MOSES

       3.A A A THE AUTHOR'S MEMORIES

       73.A A A DEEP AND TRANQUIL ECSTACY

       74.A A "WHICH ANSWERED JUST AS WELL"

       75.A A LIFE ON A RAFT

       76.A A LADY GERTRUDE

       77.A A MOUTH OF THE CAVERN

       78.A A A FATAL MISTAKE

       79.A A TAIL PIECE

       80.A A RAFTING ON THE NECKAR

       81.A A THE LORELEI

       82.A A THE LOVER's FATE

       84.A A THE UNKNOWN KNIGHT

       85.A A THE EMBRACE

       86.A A PERILOUS POSTTION

       87.A A THE RAFT IN A STORM

       88.A A ALL SAFE ON SHORE

       89.A A "IT WAS THE CAT"

       90.A A TAILPIECE

       91.A A BREAKFAST IN THE GARDEN 162

       92.A A EASILY UNDERSTOOD

       93.A A EXPERIMENTING THROUGH HARRIS

       94.A A AT THE BALL ROOM DOOR

       95.A A THE TOWN OF DILSBERG

       96.A A OUR ADVANCE ON DILSBERG

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       97.A A INSIDE THE TOWN

       95.A A THE OLD WELL

       99.A A SEND HITHER THE LORD ULRICH

       100.A A LEAD ME TO HER GRAVE

       102.A A AN EXCELLENT PILOT, ONCE

       103.A A SCATTERATION

       104.A A THE RIVER BATH

       101.A A ETRUSCAN TEAR JUG

       106.A A HENRI II. PLATE

       l07.A A OLD BLUE CHINA

       108.A A A REAL ANTIQUE

       109.A A BRIC-A-BRAC SHOP

       110.A A "PUT IT THERE"

       111.A A THE PARSON CAPTURED

       112.A A TAIL PIECE

       113.A A A COMPREHENSIVE YAWN

       114.A A TESTING THE COIN

       115.A A BEAUTY AT THE BATH

       116.A A IN THE BATH

       117.A A JERSEY INDIANS

       118.A A NOT PARTICULARLY SOCIABLE

       CONTENTS:

       CHAPTER XV Down the River--German Women's Duties--Bathing as We Went--A

       Handsome Picture: Girls in the Willows--We Sight a Tug--Steamers on the

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       Neckar--Dinner on Board--Legend "Cave of the Spectre "--Lady Gertrude the Heiress--The Crusader--The Lady in the Cave--A Tragedy

       CHAPTER XVI An Ancient Legend of the Rhine--"The Lorelei"--Count

       Hermann--Falling in Love--A Sight of the Enchantress--Sad Effect

       on Count Hermann--An Evening visit--A Sad Mistake--Count Hermann Drowned--The Song and Music--Different Trans lations--Curiosities in Titles

       CHAPTER XVII Another Legend--The Unconquered Monster--The Unknown Knight

       --His Queer Shaped Knapsack--The Knight Pitied and Advised--He Attacks the Monster--Victory for the Fire Extinguisher--The Knight rewarded--His Strange Request----Spectacles Made Popular--Danger to the Raft--Blasting Rocks--An Inglorious Death in View--Escaped--A Storm Overtakes

       us--GreatDanger--Man Overboard--Breakers Ahead--Springing a Leak--Ashore Safe--A General Embracing--A Tramp in the Dark--The Naturalist Tavern--A Night's Troubles--"It is the Cat"

       CHAPTER XVIII Breakfast in a Garden--The Old Raven--Castle of Hirschhorn--Attempt to Hire a Boat--High Dutch--What You Can Find out by Enquiring--What I Found out about the Students--A good German Custom--Harris Practices It--AnEmbarrassing Position--A Nice Party--At a Ball--Stopped at the Door--Assistance at Hand and Rendered--Worthy to be

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       an Empress

       CHAPTER XIX Arrive at Neckarsteinach--Castle of Dilsberg--A Walled Town--On a Hill--Exclusiveness of the People--A Queer Old Place--An Ancient Well--An Outlet Proved--Legend of Dilsberg Castle--The Haunted Chamber--The Betrothed's request--The Knight's Slumbers

       and Awakening--Horror of the Lover--The Wicked Jest--The Lover a Maniac--Under the Linden--Turning Pilot--Accident to the Raft--Fearful Disaster

       CHAPTER XX Good News--"Slow Freight"--Keramics--My Collection of Bric-a- brac--My Tear Jug--Henri II. Plate--Specimen of Blue China--Indifference

       to the Laugh of the World--I Discover an Antique En-route to

       Baden--Baden--Meeting an Old Acquaintance--A young American--Embryo

       Horse Doctor--An American, Sure--A Minister Captured

       CHAPTER XXI Baden--Baden--Energetic Girls--A Comprehensive Yawn--A Beggar's Trick--Cool Impudence--The Bath Woman--Insolence of Shop Keepers--Taking a Bath--Early and Late Hours--Popular Belief Regarding Indians--An Old Cemetery--A Pious Hag--Curious Table Companions

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       CHAPTER XV

       [Charming Waterside Pictures]

       Men and women and cattle were at work in the dewy fields by this time. The people often stepped aboard the raft, as we glided along the grassy shores, and gossiped with us and with the crew for a hundred yards or so, then stepped ashore again, refreshed by the ride.

       Only the men did this; the women were too busy. The women do all kinds of work on the continent. They dig, they hoe, they reap, they sow, they bear monstrous burdens on their backs, they shove similar ones long distances on wheelbarrows, they drag the cart when there is no dog or

       lean cow to drag it--and when there is, they assist the dog or cow. Age is no matter--the older the woman the stronger she is, apparently.

       On the farm a woman's duties are not defined--she does a little of

       everything; but in the towns it is different, there she only does

       certain things, the men do the rest. For instance, a hotel chambermaid has nothing to do but make beds and fires in fifty or sixty rooms, bring towels and candles, and fetch several tons of water up several flights

       of stairs, a hundred pounds at a time, in prodigious metal pitchers. She does not have to work more than eighteen or twenty hours a day, and

       she can always get down on her knees and scrub the floors of halls and

       closets when she is tired and needs a rest.

       As the morning advanced and the weather grew hot, we took off our outside clothing and sat in a row along the edge of the raft and enjoyed

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