LITMIR.BIZ

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And, in some cases they are appropriate: in hot, humid areas where mildew is a serious problem or in parishes that have no one to care for linen. I have placed in the beginning of this book a statement about linen that I enjoy and agree with. If you feel as strongly as I do about the use of linen, you will enjoy it also.

      Because of the high cost of new linen fabric, many of our churches have been making new small linens out of worn large linens. Although this is acceptable, it is not desirable. Putting time into fabric that is already partially worn is not good stewardship. Our time, efforts, and talents are of great value. New linen is preferable, especially now that it is available at reasonable prices. Please write for information. (See the Sources and Resources.)

       Holy linens may not have had a previous existence as table linens, bed sheets, or handkerchiefs.

      When disposing of old linens, save the embroidery. These handsome old embroideries can be framed and given as gifts or used to decorate church walls. Be sure that the scraps are properly disposed of; burning is recommended.

      Linen: Three characteristics come into play in choosing linen for church use: quality, weight, and density.

      Quality is judged by the even-ness of threads and weave.

      Weight is measured in ounces per square yard.

      Density is determined by the number of threads per square inch.

      We sell high-quality linen in three weights and densities:

      Our lightweight linen is suitable for both small linens and fair linens. It has 141 threads per square inch and weighs 4.4 ounces per square yard.

      Our batiste linen is suitable for small linens and especially for chalice veils. It has 136 threads per square inch and weighs 3.1 ounces per square yard.

      Our heavyweight linen is suitable for fair linens (although I prefer the lightweight). It has 119 threads per square inch and weighs 4.6 ounces per square yard.

      When acquiring linen for church use, ask for the weight and density numbers—it is difficult to detect differences in weight and density when looking at samples. You can easily see even-ness of thread and weave.

      Measuring Equipment: The usual—ruler and yardstick. For fair linens, a four-foot rule and builder's square. Since the publishing of the first edition, I have invented a special ruler designed to make quick work of laying out small linen hems. It's called the “Golden Ruler” and you can order it from me. Members of the quilting community can achieve much the same thing with a 24-inch quilting ruler.

      You will also need a creasing instrument (which comes with your Golden Ruler along with full instructions). You can purchase one made of bamboo or you can use any instrument with a smooth, blunt edge such as a butter knife or the rounded point of a medium-sized crochet hook. (See the chapter on Folding the Hem.)

      Magnifier: A swing-arm lamp with a magnifying glass can be purchased for twenty to thirty dollars, and is worth it.

       Neither starch nor size is used on the finished linens.

      Construction marks: This is a problem. There are lots of products out there and none work as well as a soft lead pencil. The marks wash out fairly readily but will stain if left too long. Marks should be as small and as light as possible. Avoid the pens that contain disappearing ink or ink that rinses out; the marks come back and are stubborn. These marks (and some other stains) may be removed by soaking the cloth in a solution of one teaspoon cream of tartar to one quart of water. Bring the solution to a boil, turn off the heat, soak the linen until cool, rinse, and wash.

      Needles: Needles are described by a number and a name. The number is related to the diameter of the needle: the larger the number, the more slender the needle will be.

      The length and character of the needle are described by its name. There are three types of needles suitable for sewing church linens: betweens, sharps, and embroidery (or crewels). Number ten betweens, sharps, and embroidery needles will all be the same diameter but they will look different. Betweens are short and this makes them stronger and less likely to bend. They are the types of needle used by quilters. Sharps are longer and not so strong. A slender sharp will bend easily. An embroidery needle is also longer than a between and has a large eye.

      Which type of needle you choose will be a matter of your own skill, preference, and the weight of your material. One person will prefer to work a heavier weight fabric with a number ten between, and another would choose a number eight sharp. I recommend that anyone who has difficulty threading a small eye use embroidery needles for all their sewing. I think a number ten embroidery is a great all-around needle. You will find a favorite that suits you.

      Pins: Although there are many types of pins, pin manufacturers aren't as well organized as needle manufacturers. I do not know of a manufacturer that has managed to standardize its entire line of pins, let alone any sort of an industry standard.

      I use two types of pins. My utility pins have yellow glass heads. The package says they are 0.6 mm in diameter. My light pins are considerably slimmer than my utility pins. While the package doesn't give the diameter, my guess is 0.4 mm. They have white glass heads (although I have seen them with multi-color heads).

      When straight hems are the goal, thick pins that distort the line of the hem are to be avoided. Pins need to be strong enough to do the work without bending, yet slim enough to hold without distorting the work. It's a nice bit of balancing.

      Thread: Cotton thread used to come in number 100, number 120, and even number 140. This type of thread is extremely difficult to locate now. Pat Crane, diocesan directress (emeritus) of Connecticut, brought to my attention Coats machine embroidery thread (lightweight, Dual Duty Plus). Although this is a cotton-wrapped polyester (and therefore heretical), it is also number 100, of extremely high quality, and strong.

      My quilting days left me with a few tips about threading fine needles. Thread will enter the eye of a tiny needle more readily if it is cut diagonally. Thread will be less likely to twist and knot if the end that came off the spool last is the one that is secured. Also, cut your thread quite short—eighteen inches; because the stitches you will be taking are small, you will be taking many more of them and the thread wears more quickly.

      Beeswax: Rubbed on the length of your sewing thread, beeswax will cut down on wear and tear on the thread as it is drawn through the linen fabric. I used to be quite enthusiastic about beeswax.

      Thimble: Learn to use a thimble if you haven't already. Those tiny needles are very sharp even at the dull end. A thimble makes sense. Learning to use a thimble can be a funny business. No matter which finger you put the thimble on, it seems your hand wants to push the needle with a different finger! If you can't convince your hand that this is for its own good, purchase two thimbles and put one on each of your “thimble fingers.” Your hand will then be forced to decide which finger it wants to use. When it has decided, take the other thimble off. I have a friend who needed to resort to three thimbles.

      Scissors: Naturally, scissors should be very sharp. You will need at least two pairs: one to cut fabric, one to use in sewing. It is helpful if the sewing scissors have sharp, precise points for getting into small places.

      Embroidery floss and floche: Embroidery floss is readily available at both craft and department stores. The DMC brand is excellent because it has been mercerized—it will not shrink. Embroidery floss commonly comes in a small skein. The skein is meant to be separated into single or multiple strands. A frequent embroidery error is the use of too many strands, which gives a heavy, awkward look. A good rule of thumb is to use a single strand for small linens, two strands for medium-sized linens, and three strands for large linens.

      Floche is another embroidery thread that is especially good for satin stitch. I use it only for satin stitch.

      Book of embroidery stitches: Embroidery is an integral part of sewing church linens, and we all ought to have a book of the basic embroidery stitches. Because small,

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