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drain them well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may be served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day, but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.

      Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per lb.

      Seasonable from August to April.

      OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.—Besides the true skate, there are several other species found in our seas. These are known as the white skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true skate.

      TO BAKE SMELTS.

      318. INGREDIENTS.—12 smelts, bread crumbs,¼ lb. of fresh butter, 2 blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.

      Mode.—Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15 minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.

      Time.—¼ hour. Average cost, 2s. per dozen.

      Seasonable from October to May.

      Sufficient for 6 persons.

      TO CHOOSE SMELTS.—When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after death, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber.

      THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.—This peculiarity in the smelt has been compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and formerly abounded in the Thames. The Atharine, or sand smelt, is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish, being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.

      TO FRY SMELTS.

      319. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.

      Mode.—Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter. This fish is often used as a garnishing.

      Time.—5 minutes.

      Average cost, 2s. per dozen.

      Seasonable from October to May.

      [Illustration: THE SMELT.]

      THE SMELT.—This is a delicate little fish, and is in high esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in November, December, and January.

      BAKED SOLES.

      320. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles,¼ lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs, minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to taste.

      Mode.—Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20 minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it under the fish, and serve.

      Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. to 2s. per pair.

      Seasonable at any time.

      Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

      TO CHOOSE SOLES.—This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.

      [Illustration: THE SOLE.]

      THE SOLE.—This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but those of the western shores are much superior in size to those taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm, white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed.

      BOILED SOLES.

      321. INGREDIENTS.—¼ lb. salt to each gallon of water.

      Mode.—Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.

      Time.—After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.

      Average cost, 1s. to 2s. per pair.

      Seasonable at any time.

      Sufficient—1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.

      SOLE OR COD PIE.

      322. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened with flour, puff paste.

      Mode.—Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff paste, and bake for ½ hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve.

      Time.—½ hour. Average cost for this quantity, 10d.

      Seasonable at any time.

      Sufficient for 4 persons.

      SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE.

      323. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; the juice of ½ lemon, salt and water,½ pint of cream.

      Mode.—Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2 pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a boil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately clean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice. The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream is required.

      Time.—10 minutes in the cream.

      Average cost, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. Seasonable at any time.

      Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

      This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.

      THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.—This fish was much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the general name of passeres, were all equally esteemed, and had generally the same qualities attributed to them.

FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE.

      324. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; egg and bread crumbs, butter, the

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