Walks in Rome - Augustus J. C. Hare

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Library.—Piale, 1, 2, Piazza di Spagna.

      Booksellers.—Monaldini, Piazza di Spagna; Spithover, Piazza di Spagna; Bocca, 216 Corso; Loesther, 346 Corso.

      Italian Masters.—Vannini, 31 Via Condotti (in the summer at the Bagni di Lucca); Monachesi (a Roman), 8 Via S. Sebastianello; Gordini, 374 Corso; N. Lucantini, 17 Via della Stamperia.

      Photographers.—For views of Rome.—Watson, Via Babuino; Macpherson, 12 Vicolo Aliberti; Mang, 104 Via Felice; Anderson (his photographs sold at Spithover's); Joseph Phelps, 169 Via Babuino; Maggi, 329 Corso. For Artistic Bits, very much to be recommended, De Bonis, 11 Via Felice. For Portraits.—Suscipi, 48 Via Condotti (the best for medallions); Alessandri, 12 Corso (excellent for Cartes de Visite); Lais, 57 Via del Campo-Marzo; Ferretti, 50 Via Sta. Maria in Via.

      Drawing Materials.—Dovizelli, 136 Via Babuino; Corteselli, 150 Via Felice. For commoner articles and stationery, the "Cartoleria," 214 Corso, opposite the Piazza Colonna.

      Engravings.—At the Stamperia Nazionale (fixed prices), 6 Via della Stamperia, near the fountain of Trevi.

      Antiquities.—Depoletti, 31 Via Fontanella Borghese; Innocenti, 118 Via Frattina; Santelli, 141 Via Frattina; Capobianchi, 152 Via Babuino.

      Bronzes.—Röhrich, 104 Via Sistina; Chiapanelli, 92 Via Babuino; Dressler, 17 Via Due Macelli.

      Cameos.—Saulini, 96 Via Babuino; Neri, 72 Via Babuino.

      Mosaics.—Rinaldi, 125 Via Babuino; Boschetti, 74 Via Condotti.

      Jewellers.—Castellani, 88 Via Poli (closed from 12 to 1), very beautiful, but very expensive; Pierret, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Innocenti, 33 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.

      Roman Pearls.—Rey, 122 Via Babuino; Lacchini, 70 Via Condotti.

      Bookbinder.—Olivieri, 1 Via Frattina.

      Engraver.—(For visiting cards, &c.), Martelli, 139 Via Frattina.

      Tailors.—Mattina (the "Poole" of Rome), Corso, opposite S. Carlo, entrance 2 Via delle Carozze; Vai, 60 Piazza di Spagna; Reanda, 61 Piazza. S. Apostoli; Evert, 77 Piazza Borghese.

      Shoemakers.—Rubini, 223 Corso (none good).

      Dressmaker.—Clarisse, 166 Corso.

      Shops for Ladies' Dress.—Massoni, Palazzo Simonetti; the Ville de Lyon, 48 Via dei Prefetti (behind S. Lorenzo in Lucina); Sebastiani, 8 Via del Campo-Marzo; Giovannetti, 50 to 53 Campo-Marzo.

      Roman Ribbons and Shawls.—Arvotti, 66 Piazza Madama (fixed prices); Bianchi, 82 Via della Minerva.

      Gloves.—Cremonesi, 420 Corso; 4 Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina.

      Carpets and small Household Articles.—Cagiati, 250 Corso.

      German Baker.—Colalucci, 88 Via della Croce (excellent).

      English Grocer.—Lowe, 76 Piazza di Spagna.

      Italian Grocer and Wine Merchant.—Giacosa, Via della Maddalena.

      Oil, Candles and Wood, &c.—Luigioni, 70 Piazza di Spagna.

      English Dairy.—Palmegiani, 66 Piazza di Spagna.

      Artists' Studios.—

      Benonville, 61 Via Babuino—landscapes.

       Brennan, 76 Via Borghetto.

       Coleman, 16 Via dei Zucchelli—very good for animals.

       Corrodi, 25 Angelo-Custode—water-colour landscapes, very highly finished.

       Desoulavy, 33 Via Margutta—landscapes. Fattorini, Via Margutta—a very beautiful copyist. Flatz, 3 Mario di Fiori—sacred subjects. Haseltine, J. H., 59 Via Babuino. *Joris, 33 Via Margutta—quite first-rate for figure subjects in water-colour. Garelli, 217 Ripetta—an admirable copyist, generally to be found in the Capitoline Gallery. *Glennie, 17 Piazza Margana—water-colour, first-rate. Knebel, 33 Via Margutta—oil landscapes. Maes, 33 Via Margutta. *Marianecci, 53 Via Margutta—the prince of copyists. Muller, 60 Piazza Barberini—water-colour landscapes. Podesti, 55 Via Margutta—oil: large historical and sacred subjects. Poingdestre, 36 Vicolo dei Greci—oil: landscapes. Buchanan Read, 55 Via Margutta. *Rivière, 36 Vicolo dei Greci—water-colour. De Sanctis, 33 Via Margutta. Strutt (Arthur), 81 Via della Croce—landscapes and figures, both oil and water-colour. Tapiro (Spanish), 72 Sistina—admirable for figures. Tilton, 20 Via S. Basilio—remarkable for his drawings of the Nile. Vertunni, 53 Via Margutta. Wedder, 55A Via Margutta. *Penry Williams, 12 Piazza Mignanelli.

      Sculptors' Studios.—

      D'Epinay, 57 Via Sistina.

       Fabj-Altini, 4 S. Nicolo in Tolentino.

       Miss Foley, 53 Via Margutta—admirable for medallion portraits and

       busts, also the author of a beautiful fountain.

       *Miss Hosmer, 118 Via Margutta—(Gibson's studio).

       Miss Lewis, 8 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino.

       Macdonald, 7 Piazza Barberini.

       Rosetti, 55 Via Margutta. Story, 2 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino. Tadolini, 150A Via Babuino. Wood (Shakspeare), 504 Corso—excels in medallion portraits. Wood (Warrington), 7 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.

      It is impossible for a traveller who spends only a week or ten days in Rome to see a tenth part of the sights which it contains. Perhaps the most important objects are:

      Churches.—S. Peter's, S. John Lateran, Sta. Maria Maggiore, S. Lorenzo fuori Mura, S. Paoli fuori Mura, S. Agnese fuori Mura, Ara Cœli, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Montorio, S. Pietro in Vincoli, Sta. Sabina, Sta. Prassede and Sta. Pudentiana, S. Gregorio, S. Stefano Rotondo, Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, Sta. Maria del Popolo.

      Palaces.—Vatican, Capitol, Borghese, Barberini (and, if possible, Corsini, Colonna, Sciarra, Rospigliosi, and Spada).

      Villas.—Albani, Doria, Borghese, Wolkonski, and, though less important, Ludovisi.

      Ruins.—Palace of the Cæsars, Temples in Forum, Coliseum, and, if possible, the ruins in the Ghetto, and the Baths of Caracalla.

      It is desirable for the traveller who is pressed for time to apply at once to his Banker for orders for any of the villas for which they are necessary. The following scheme will give a good general idea of Rome and its neighbourhood in a few days. The sights printed in italics can only be seen on the days to which they are ascribed:—

      Monday.—General view of Capitol, Gallery of Sculpture, Ara Cœli, General view of Forum, Coliseum, St. John Lateran (with cloisters), and drive out to the Via Latina and the aqueducts at Tavolato.

      Tuesday.—Morning: St. Peter's and the Vatican Stanze. Afternoon: Villa Albani, St. Agnese, and drive to the Ponte Nomentana.

      Wednesday.—Go to Tivoli (the Cascades, Cascatelle, and Villa d'Este).

      Thursday.—Morning: Palace of the Cæsars. Afternoon: drive on the Via Appia as far as Torre Mezzo Strada; in returning, see the Baths of Caracalla.

      Friday.—Morning: Palazzo Borghese, Palazzo Spada, The Ghetto, The Temple of Vesta, cross the Ponte Rotto to Sta. Cecilia; and end in the afternoon at St. Pietro in Montorio and the Villa Doria (or on Monday).

      Saturday.—Frascati and Albano. Drive to Frascati early, take donkeys, by Rocca di Papa to Mte. Cavo; take luncheon at the Temple, and return by Palazzuolo and the upper and lower Galleries to Albano, whither the carriage should be sent on to await you at the Hotel de Russie. Drive back to Rome in the evening.

      Sunday.—Morning: Sta. Maria del Popolo on way to English Church. Afternoon: St. Peter's again; drive to Monte Mario (Villa Mellini), or in the Villa Borghese,

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