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      This is another unusual ‘pie’ which is made in the spring, when the elderflowers are blossoming, and which is cut up and served with the antipasti. Guanciale is a bacon made from pork jowl, cured in wine, herbs and black pepper. If you can’t find it, use some good lardons or cubed pancetta.

      Serves 6

      For the dough:

      30g fresh yeast

      500g semolina flour, plus more as needed

      500g ‘00’ flour

      1 teaspoon sugar

      20g sea salt

      80ml olive oil

      1 egg, beaten, for brushing

      For the filling:

      4 tablespoons olive oil

      300g guanciale, chopped

      400g rustic salame, roughly chopped

      300g tuma (Sicilian unsalted sheep’s milk cheese) or pecorino, chopped

      50g elderflowers, chopped

      Mix the yeast with 400ml of water. In a food mixer with a dough hook, mix the flours and sugar, add the yeast and water, and mix. Add the salt and when it is incorporated, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Mix until soft and elastic, then emulsify the rest of the olive oil with another 50ml of water and add it to the dough a little at a time, with the motor turning, until the dough is soft. Turn out into a bowl and leave to rise in a warm place for at least 2 hours.

      Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.

      To make the filling, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, put in the guanciale and cook until golden brown all over, then lift out and drain on kitchen paper. Mix, in a bowl, with the salame, cheese and elderflowers.

      Rub the dough with another tablespoon of olive oil. Cut in half, and roll one half into a sheet large enough to line a tart tin. Scatter with the guanciale mixture and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Cover with the other half of the dough, pressing around the edges to seal. Brush the top with the beaten egg and bake in the oven for 40 minutes, until golden. Slice and serve hot.

      Schiacciata with sausage

      This is typical of the area around Agrigento, another very rich pie that is cut up and served as an antipasti … very moreish, but also very filling.

      Serves 6

      4 whole black olives in brine

      sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      1 head of cauliflower, cut into small pieces

      2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little extra for greasing and finishing

      200g 100 per cent pork sausages

      1 large potato, peeled and cut into large chunks

      1 medium onion, sliced

      60g caciocavallo or pecorino cheese, diced

      For the dough:

      500g semolina flour, plus more as needed

      500g ‘00’ flour

      30g fresh yeast

      80ml olive oil

      20g sea salt

      5g sugar

      1 egg, beaten, for brushing

      First make the dough. In a food mixer with a dough hook, mix the flours, yeast, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 400ml of water, the salt and the sugar. Mix until soft and elastic, then emulsify the rest of the olive oil with another 50ml of water and add it to the mixer bowl a little at a time, with the motor turning, until the dough is soft. Turn out into a bowl and leave to rise in a warm place for at least 2 hours.

      Drain the olives and pat dry. With a sharp knife, make three or four cuts in each olive from end to end, then cut each segment away from the stone as carefully as you can.

      Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Put in the cauliflower and blanch for a minute then drain.

      Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4 and brush a baking dish with olive oil. Remove the skins from the sausages and break the sausage meat into pieces.

      Heat the olive oil in a pan and brown the sausage meat. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper. Add the potatoes to the pan in which you cooked the sausages, season, and sauté until golden and just tender. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper, then put the onion into the same pan and cook gently until soft but not coloured. Add the cauliflower and season with salt to taste.

      Put the sausage and potatoes back into the pan of onion and cauliflower, along with the olives, and season well with black pepper. Stir everything together for a minute or so, then take off the heat.

      Dust your work surface with flour, and roll out the dough to about 6mm thick. Divide it into two: you need one piece big enough to line a shallow baking dish, and the other to put over the top. Line the dish with the bigger sheet of dough, then spoon in the sausage mixture. Scatter the cheese over, then cover with the other sheet of dough and seal the edges all round. Brush with a little more olive oil.

      Put into the preheated oven and bake for 20–30 minutes, or until the top is golden.

      Parsley and garlic, oils and dressings

      Parsley and garlic

      This is just a way of preparing parsley and garlic that brings out the maximum flavour in both, and is something I’ve always done. Every morning in the restaurant we prepare it. To 1 garlic clove we use about 4 handfuls of flat-leaf parsley. We put the garlic cloves on a chopping board and crush them with the flat of a kitchen knife, so that they become a paste. Then we put the parsley on top and chop it finely, so that we are chopping through the garlic at the same time, and the two flavours mingle.

      Garlic oil

      It is a very Sicilian thing to make fresh garlic oil; I don’t remember going into anyone’s house and seeing a bottle that had been bought from a shop. Make it in small batches and use it up quickly.

      Makes about 50ml

      2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

      50ml olive oil

      Mix together and leave for a day in the fridge before using. It will keep, refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

      When you spoon it out, you should have about 75 per cent oil and 25 per cent chopped garlic.

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      Lemon oil

      This is the simplest combination of oil and lemon juice, but when it is made with the juice of Sicilian lemons the flavour is brilliant. It should be used immediately after making, otherwise the flavour of the lemon will change, so adjust the quantities according to how much you need.

      Makes about 200ml

      a pinch of salt

      3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

      150ml

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