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      Smoked mackerel and tomato tart

      This tart can be served as a starter with salad leaves, or would make a perfect lunch or supper dish. Remember that some smoked mackerel has never seen the inside of a smokehouse, but has been dipped in dye to simulate the smoked effect. So search out best-quality fish that has been naturally smoked in the time-honoured tradition. The tomatoes, as always, need to be really ripe and firm, and you will be peeling them. Peeling tomatoes can be either a pleasure or torture. There is no grey area here, it either works perfectly or is a nightmare. This is a classic example of how important it is to follow all and not just some of the instructions.

      For a special treat, serve this tart with a drizzle of hollandaise sauce.

      The ingredients

      Smoked mackerel, like salmon, has suffered in the last few years from becoming a mass-produced product, and that is exactly how much of it tastes now. Try to find fish smoked by an artisan producer, as it will have superior flavour, colour and texture. As a general rule the colour created on the fish by the traditional wood-smoking process should look natural, as distinct from the orangey and glowing colour of the mass-produced product. The artisan-produced fish will be more expensive, but just buy exactly as much as you need, don’t waste a scrap, and the superior flavour and texture will hopefully make you feel that the extra cost was worthwhile.

      The sweet and smoky flavour of the tarragon combines beautifully with the tomato and smoked fish.

      Serves 6–8 TART FILLING

      1 small onion, very finely chopped

      25g butter

      3 ripe firm tomatoes

      Maldon sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar, to taste

      2 eggs and 1 egg yolk

      300ml regular or double cream

      1 tablespoon chopped chives

      1 dessertspoon chopped tarragon

      2 large whole smoked mackerel or 4 fillets, skinned and bones removed, pulled into 2cm pieces

      Prepare the tart case, as instructed.

      Sweat the onions very gently in the butter until soft, then leave to cool.

      Peel the tomatoes, as described. Quarter the peeled tomatoes, remove the seeds and discard. Cut the flesh into 1cm dice. Season with a pinch of salt, pepper and sugar.

      Beat the eggs and cream. Add the cooled onions, chopped herbs and seasoning and mix well. Gently fold in the tomatoes and the skinned and shredded mackerel. Taste and correct the seasoning.

      Pour the filling into the tart shell and place in a preheated oven at 180°C/350°F/gas 4 for 30–40 minutes, or until the tart is set. Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes.

      Remove the tin, place the tart on a large flat plate and serve. It tastes best when served warm. For a special occasion, serve a drizzle of hollandaise sauce with each slice of tart.

      Wild mushroom and tarragon tart

      Mushrooms and tarragon are a classic combination of flavours and the combination will work for you in lots of other recipes. The Spring Mimosa Salad makes an excellent accompaniment.

      The ingredients

      Clean all mushrooms really well with a little brush or a damp cloth before using, and preferably avoid using any water, though a little rinse may sometimes be necessary. Wild mushrooms such as ceps, chanterelles, hedgehog and even the common field mushroom will be delicious here. Cultivated ‘exotic’ mushrooms such as oyster, shiitake, namiko are also good. Cook the prepared mushrooms in small batches over a high heat.

      Tarragon should never be chopped ahead of time, as it oxidises and loses its wonderful flavour if not protected from the air by a coating of liquid, so chop it just before it goes into the tart filling.

      Serves 6 TART FILLING

      1 small onion, very finely chopped

      50g butter

      600g wild mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped into 1cm pieces

      Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      2 eggs and 1 egg yolk

      300ml regular or double cream

      1–2 tablespoons chopped tarragon

      50g finely grated Parmesan

      1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

      Prepare the tart case, as instructed.

      Sweat the onions very gently in

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