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the samples tested for residues in 2005, seven were organic and none of these contained a single residue, making organic the best choice. Organic farms are permitted to use six agricultural chemicals, while conventional farmers have hundreds at their disposal.

      Should I buy loose or wrapped broccoli?

      The wide expanse of the flower head on broccoli means it oxidises quickly, giving unwrapped broccoli a short shelf life of three days. Wrapped and refrigerated, it will keep for five days or more. If you prefer to buy vegetables without packaging, you must buy fresher broccoli more frequently (or buy it unwrapped and wrap it in cling film before storing).

      Is a hole in the stalk a bad sign?

      Not in nutritional terms. British broccoli often has holes – a sign of erratic growth caused by our climate. Holey broccoli deteriorates quicker than broccoli with a solid stalk, but it is still worth buying rather than imported for its freshness, low food-mile scale and high nutrient value.

      Does GM broccoli exist?

      Yes, but it is not yet permitted for sale. Scientists are developing a super-broccoli with 80 times more cancer-fighting ability (not to be confused with the one crossbred with a Sicilian wild plant, above). The plant is expected to be ready in three years’ time and will raise tricky questions about where the line should be drawn between food and preventative medicine.

      What is calabrese?

      Calabrese is an Italian brassica similar to broccoli but with a pale green, pointed, looser-packed flower head. It is grown in the UK but, since it is a more tender plant, you are unlikely to find those not grown under glass before their season in August and September.

      Do the other brassicas share similar issues with broccoli?

      Yes. Cauliflowers and cabbages can be grown in the UK all year round, so it is always best to ask for British if you want the freshest produce. Cauliflower is a precarious crop for farmers, who are unable to sell it during hot weather, when the sun turns the white flower yellow. At this time, acre upon acre of crop can be grubbed and wasted because apparently neither supermarkets nor their customers want a yellowed cauliflower, even though the taste and nutrient quality are the same as for pure white ones. So don’t turn your noise up at hot-weather cauliflowers: eaten raw, thinly sliced, with a dressing, they are a revelation. Cabbages and cauliflowers have similar pesticide issues to broccoli, so you may prefer to choose organic. Brussels sprouts have recently undergone quite a change in flavour. New breeds taste much less sulphurous than those in my Seventies’ childhood and they – and sprout tops—now join purple sprouting broccoli as a seasonal winter vegetable to look forward to.

      What’s in the supermarkets?

      All chains, large and small, should sell UK-grown green broccoli and purple sprouting in season. If there is no indication on the price tag, look at the side of the packing cases (if it is not in those green plastic ones) for evidence of country of origin. If no UK-grown broccoli is available during the season, don’t be afraid to ask a manager or customer services; your demands will be noted. Organic broccoli is available in some supermarkets.

      Where to buy British broccoli in season

      Fresh, locally sourced broccoli can usually be bought at farmers’ markets and farm shops. To find the ones nearest to you, check www.farmersmarkets.net (tel: 0845 458 8420), or www.lfm.org.uk (tel: 020 7833 0338) for London. For details of farm shops, look at www.farma.org.uk or www.bigbarn.co.uk.

      Box schemes can deliver both green and purple sprouting broccoli to your door. They are listed in the directory on the Soil Association website (www.soilassociation.org) or your nearest local scheme can be found on the local food network (www.localfoodworks.org).

      The following retailers specialise in organic vegetables:

      

       Abel & Cole, 8-15 MGI Estate, Milkwood Road, London SE24 OJFTel: 0845 262 6262www.abel-cole.co.uk

      Home delivery nationwide.

      

       Farmaround Organic, Office BI43, New Covent Garden Market,Nine Elms Lane, London SW8 5PATel: 020 7627 8066 (home delivery in London)Tel: 01748 821 I 16 (home delivery in the north of England)www.farmaround.co.uk

       Fresh Food Company, The Orchard, 50 Wormholt Road,London W12 OLSTel: 020 8749 8778www.freshfood.co.uk

      Home delivery nationwide.

      

       Growing Communities, The Old Fire Station, 61 Leswin Road,London N16 7NYTel: 020 7502 7588www.growingcommunities.org

      Collection only, reducing the price for London customers. There are three collection points, including this one; call to find the nearest.

      

       Organic Connections, Riverdale, Town Street, Upwell, Wisbech,Cambridgeshire PEI4 9AFTel: 01945 773374www.organic-connections.co.uk

      Home delivery nationwide.

      

       Riverford Organic Vegetables Ltd, Wash Barn, Buckfastleigh,Devon TQ11 OLDTel: 0845 600 2311www.riverford.co.uk

      Home delivery in London, Midlands and the Southwest.

      

       Solstice Home, Unit 851-2, New Covent Garden Market,London SW8 5EETel: 020 7498 7700www.solstice.co.uk

      Home delivery nationwide.

      

       Sunnyfields Organic, Jacobs Gutter Lane, Totton,Southampton SO40 9FXTel: 02380 861266www.sunnyfields.co.uk

      Home delivery in Hampshire, Dorset, Surrey and Central London.

       BURGERS

      Burgers are almost synonymous with the BSE cattle disease scandal, yet there’s no denting our passion for them. A rough estimate reports that we consume nearly a million tonnes of burgers a year, yet in spite of new labelling laws that tell us more about the burger in the shop than ever, many commercial burgers are only partially beef (or other meat) and in some types of burger, only part of that need actually be muscle. The rest? Well, well, try fat, gristle and mechanically recovered meat…

      Is the burger in the shop a bargain?

      No! Frequently the price of lean minced beef is below that of ready-made burgers, which may contain added ingredients.

      What do the various burger names on the packs mean?

      UK regulations governing the labelling of burgers divides them into three types:

      

      • Burgers – must contain at least 80 per cent of the meat or food named in the title, e.g. beef or chicken. Some 65 per cent of the meat must be lean.

      • Economy burgers – must contain at least 60 per cent of the meat or food named in the title. Some 65 per cent of the meat must be lean.

      • Hamburgers—the meat used must be pork, beef or a mixture and the burger must contain at least 80 per cent meat, with 65 per cent of that being lean meat.

      So

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