LITMIR.BIZ

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were sold with a tougher end to them. Asparagus steamers were created so that the whole stalk would cook evenly.

      What is the best way to prepare asparagus?

      The modern breeds can be boiled for five to seven minutes, until just tender when pierced with a knife, then lifted out and laid on a tea towel to drain thoroughly (do not bruise them by throwing them into a colander). Chefs often pare away the outer skin on the lower end of the stalk to guarantee even cooking. This is a good idea that also yields extra-green cooked stalks.

      Are chemicals used to grow asparagus?

      It is hard to track chemical use in importing countries but Spanish growers who supply UK supermarkets may not use any more than their UK counterparts. Chemical use in the UK varies; if you want to avoid all but the organic sector’s few approved chemicals, then buy organic, where all weeding is done by hand. But there are conventional suppliers – even large-scale ones – who measure the impact they have on the environment: carrying out ornithological surveys and encouraging beneficial predatory insects on crops to replace pesticides. Members of the Asparagus Growers Association (see page 40) are refreshingly transparent about pesticide use. Responsible growers are reluctant to use sprays because almost the whole plant is eaten.

      The big problem for growers is weeds, so in the UK a limited number of herbicides is conventionally used before the shoots appear. After that, growers should weed by hand, but there is no rule that guarantees this. Fungicides are sometimes used during a harvest in wet weather. The point about asparagus is that the stalks are above ground for no more than 11 days, so with decent weather conditions and no pest attacks they stand a good chance of being chemical free.

      Reports recording pesticide residues comfort a little. Both British and imported asparagus were tested for residues in spring 2004. Residues were found on one out of 47 samples. The sample – from Peru – contained residues of the pesticide cypermethrin below UK maximum residue levels, but obviously if other growers can produce residue-free asparagus, we do not want to see any at all.

      Is asparagus good for you?

      It is classed as a ‘superfood’, especially for pregnant women, because it contains particularly high levels of natural folic acid, plus vitamins A, C and E. It is also a good source of potassium and fibre – so eat lots during the glut.

      But what about that smell?

      The smell in urine after eating asparagus comes from sulphur-containing degradation products that are created as the body metabolises the asparagus. The odour, which can be nasty, gave the asparagus its old reputation, ‘chambermaid’s nightmare’. It is said that healthy kidney function will produce that smelly ‘pee’ within 15 minutes of eating the stalks, but it is also true that some people are totally unable to detect the smell, so don’t panic if you eat asparagus and the air in the loo appears, er, as sweet as ever.

      What other varieties are there, apart from green?

      White asparagus is very popular in Belgium, France and Italy but imported stalks can be flavourless and tough. Red asparagus, which crops at the same time as green, is making a comeback in the UK and is available in May. Asparagus ‘sprue’ is not another breed, just thin stalks, and is very good stir-fried or cooked quickly and added to a risotto.

      How do I choose asparagus?

      Green asparagus is sold in two thicknesses, ‘jumbo’ and ‘kitchen’. There is little difference in flavour; it is always the freshness that counts. Sniff the tips, which should smell fresh and fruity, not of compost. Inspect the stalks for damage and look out for very dry ends, which probably mean that the asparagus has been hanging about a bit.

      Supermarkets tend to buy direct from farms, but nevertheless you need to scrutinise their asparagus for signs of age. It is possible that it has been held in a warehouse for up to three days before distribution.

      For the freshest asparagus, buy direct from farms, produce markets or from local greengrocers who go to regional wholesale markets that take delivery of freshly picked asparagus from local farms every night.

      What the supermarkets say

      Sainsbury claims to take all the British produce that is available to it during the UK season but says that demand outstrips supply. In these cases it imports produce, from countries in Asia, the Americas, and Africa. All of this produce is transported by road and air freight. Sainsbury also stocks organic asparagus.

      Tesco’s asparagus is grown in Peru and Guatemala. Tesco states that it sources British when quality is at its best. It also sells an organic variety.

      Marks & Spencer sources its asparagus from Peru, the UK and South Africa. It says that it has extended the selling period of British asparagus, now selling it out of season for two months longer – to great success (obviously). The asparagus is usually transported by air and road freight.

      The Co-op sources its asparagus from the UK, Peru and Thailand. There is no organic option. The asparagus is transported via road and air freight.

      Budgens’ asparagus is sourced from the UK when in season, Peru and Spain at other times. It does not sell an organic variety.

      Where to buy British asparagus

      Pick-your-own farms and farm shops are the best source of asparagus during the season, and very good value. Buying from them also supports the local economy. The Asparagus Growers Association has a list of all suppliers who sell at the farm gate: look at www.british-asparagus.co.uk or phone 01507 602427.

      Mail-order asparagus is available from the following suppliers:

      

       C. W. Cave (Terrington) Ltd, Hall Farm, West Rudham,Kings Lynn, Norfolk PE31 8TETel: 01485 528238

       Mr and Mrs J. M. Harlow, I Westenhanger Cottage,Maidstone Road, Horsmonden, Tonbridge, Kent TN12 8DDTel: 01892 722533www.easyasparagus.com

       A. H. and H. A. Pattullo, Eassie Farm, By Glamis,Angus DD8 ISGTel: 01307 840303

       BABY FOOD AND INFANT FORMULA

      While breast milk is the best possible baby’s tipple, it appears that you are never too young to be green. The buzzword in the baby food and formula market barely needs saying, but organic it is. Ten years ago organic baby food and formula companies could be counted on the fingers of one hand. Now there are at least a dozen. Once weaned, you can be a green gourmet, too. Forget slimy purée—baby gets a menu worthy of an entry in the Michelin Guide. But just before you dash off to buy these Lilliputian ready meals, remember that is exactly what they are and, just like milk from the breast, freshly cooked food from fresh ingredients is always best.

      Does organic mean pesticide free when

      it comes to baby food?

      Yes, and interestingly under UK law conventional baby food is free of pesticides, too. The maximum limit for pesticides in milk formula and baby food is set at 0.01mg per kilo, a level so low it effectively means no residues are present. This is not to say there is not a problem. In 2002, when cereal-based baby foods were tested for the organophosphate, pirimiphos methyl, two out of 71 samples had detectable levels. Later that year three out of 73 samples were found to contain the same pesticide – they were withdrawn, but inexplicably cereal-based baby food was not tested the following year.

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