Kitchenella: The secrets of women: heroic, simple, nurturing cookery - for everyone - Rose Prince

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that children reject certain foods once they discover that their friends find it strange to be served a grilled razor clam or spiced chickpeas. It is not just because their parents, Sam and Sam, cook brilliantly. Since they were babies they have been among people who work with and socialise around food. They simply know no other life than that where something different is being tried all the time. Ask Sam which recipe from the restaurant, Moro, that Luke and Eve love to eat, and each time she comes up with something completely different – of course.

      It’s best to describe Sam and Sam’s lahmacun as a Turkish ‘pizza’ – healthier than the cheese-and-tomato type, yet full of the sweet flavours children love. I find this easy to make once you have a store of the stewed lamb ready to use. The lamb can be prepared the day before, along with the tomato sauce.

      MAKES 4 PIZZAS

      FOR THE STEWED LAMB:

      300g/10½oz boneless shoulder or neck of lamb, cut into 1cm/½in cubes (or you can use lean minced lamb with the same seasonings, so no stewing)

      ½ small onion, grated

      ¼ teaspoon ground allspice

      100–150ml/3½–5fl oz water

      salt and black pepper

      Put the lamb, onion and allspice into a medium saucepan and stir well. Add enough water just to cover – add a pinch of salt and pepper and place a piece of baking parchment on top. Simmer over a low flame for about 1–1½ hours or until tender. Uncover the pot, increase the heat and cook until the juices run thick. Remove from the heat to cool and keep aside.

      FOR THE DOUGH:

      450g/1lb unbleached strong white bread flour, plus extra for kneading

      5g/1 teaspoon fast action yeast

      ¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

      300ml/½ pint warm water

      2 tablespoons olive oil

      Put the flour, yeast and salt into a large bowl and add the water. Mix to a paste, then add the oil and continue to mix until it has come together. Transfer to a floured surface and knead well for about 5 minutes until smooth and elastic, adding more flour if necessary. Set aside to rise, covered with a cloth, for 1 hour.

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