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      SALONICA

      CITY OF GHOSTS

       Christians, Muslims and Jews 1430–1950

      MARK MAZOWER

       Copyright

      William Collins

      An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF

       www.harpercollins.co.uk

      This edition published by Harper Perennial 2005

      First published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2004

      Copyright © Mark Mazower 2004

      Mark Mazower asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

      All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

      HarperCollinsPublishers has made every reasonable effort to ensure that any picture content and written content in this ebook has been included or removed in accordance with the contractual and technological constraints in operation at the time of publication.

      Source ISBN: 9780007120222

      Ebook Edition © MARCH 2016 ISBN: 9780007383665

      Version: 2016-08-24

       Dedication

      To Marwa

       Contents

       COVER

       TITLE PAGE

       7 Pashas, Beys and Money-lenders

       8 Religion in the Age of Reform

      PART TWO: In the Shadow of Europe

       9 Travellers and the European Imagination

      10 The Possibilities of a Past

      11 In the Frankish Style

      12 The Macedonia Question, 1878–1908

      13 The Young Turk Revolution

      PART THREE: Making the City Greek

      14 The Return of St Dimitrios

      15 The First World War

      16 The Great Fire

      17 The Muslim Exodus

      18 City of Refugees

      19 Workers and the State

      20 Dressing for the Tango

      21 Greeks and Jews

      22 Genocide

      23 Aftermath

       CONCLUSION: The Memory of the Dad

       GLOSSARY

       INDEX

       NOTES

       ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

       ABOUT THE AUTHOR

       PRAISE

       ALSO BY THE AUTHOR

       ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

       List of Maps

       The topography of the Balkans.

       Inside the Ottoman city.

       The first map of the Ottoman city, 1882, showing the new sea frontage.

       The late Ottoman city and its surroundings, c.1910.

       Area destroyed by the 1917 fire.

       After the fire: the 1918 Plan.

       The Balkans after 1918.

       The 1929 Municipal City Plan.

       Introduction

      Beware of saying to them that sometimes cities follow one another on the same site and under the same name, born and dying without knowing one another, without communicating among themselves. At times even the names of the inhabitants remain the same, and their voices’ accent,

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