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the five dollar cabana otherwise available. Apparently there’s a bank machine at the next town. It’s not far, ten km or so, but haven’t you heard this one somewhere before?

      Zehuenjeno.: A freeway all to yourself

      Sunday September 2, 2007, 130 km (81 miles) – Total so far: 3,047 km (1,893 miles)

      It rains. You finally find an ATM, after only four days of searching. You stop for lunch and to wait out the worst of the rain. It lets up to the point where you can now remove your coat. There is a new toll freeway in place for fifteen km but it’s closed for use. The busy highway passes over at one point and you find your entrance on. There is no traffic at all. Just you and the tarmac and nice ocean views.

      But the freeway ends as far as you’re concerned and you are forced onto the highway with all the not so nice traffic. But not everyone’s an asshole. You sure do meet a lot of them though.

      After about a hundred km a sign points off to a hotel. It looks nice. Too nice. And not worth the six km detour to find out. You press on. Closer to your destination more hotels and motels present themselves. The price looks right until you see that it’s only for two or three hours. You keep going.

      Your feet hurt. The day wears on. Eventually you get into town. Only a couple more km now so you ignore the hotels on the outskirts. You’ll stay for a couple of nights so what’s the use of staying on the outskirts of town. To pack up and move three km further on? Bear the pain now.

      It is dark by the time you find the main drag and a hotel that looks good. Ten dollars isn’t bad. But a look at the bike and the price hikes up to fifteen. Luckily the ol’ bat’s daughter, you think, lets you go with ten. It sure aint the Hilton though.

      This looks like a pretty happening resort. Lots of people about and even a few foreigners too. It might be worth staying up for a cerveza or three. Tomorrow needs to be a rest day anyway.

      Tecman.: Too many bus drivers make Danny go a little crazy

      Tuesday September 4, 2007, 141 km (88 miles) – Total so far: 3,188 km (1,981 miles)

      Yesterday is a day of rest, spent, well, resting in the resort town of Zehuenjeno. Or whatever it is called. You meet people and you enjoy yourself. This is a nice place. Better, and smaller than the other resort towns you’ve been through. Iztapa to the north draws the richer crowds.

      It’s two long days to Aculpulco. You aim to ride about 120 km today. That’s half way. Traffic continues as before. It’s a little busy and once you are out of town roads cease to have shoulders. Bus drivers continue to endeavor to be the biggest assholes they can be. Ten overtake way too close for comfort in the first hour alone.

      About an hour out of town, just before a bridge and on the right, is a nice looking restaurant with pool. Silly you for not turning back. But then you would be there all day. You pull in to a restaurant further up. It takes you a little while to realise that this is a school cafeteria. You keep looking.

      Accomodation is plentiful except for where you want it. Tecman is only another twenty km further. Can you make it? There are a couple hotels just before Tecman but you press on. If you’ve made it this far you may as well do the five km more. Tecman only has one hotel in town but there are two more just on the other side as well. Ten US is cheap but of course you get what you pay for. Or you don’t get what you don’t pay for. No aircon, no TV, no toilet seat.

      Acalpulco.: Riding without gears

      Wednesday September 5, 2007, 104 km (65 miles) – Total so far: 3,292 km (2,046 miles)

      Vowing not to go back to the overcharging restaurant you ate at last night you find a nice little place and have tortas. You break your rear gears leaving you with just the front ones to play with all day. This means having to walk up whatever hills lie ahead.

      After an hour, 80 km before Aculpulco there is a restaurant with swimming pool. It looks very nice but you keep going. Lunch can wait a little later.

      With just twenty km to go a toll freeway presents itself. You stay on the highway where traffic does increase tremendously. You make it to Acalpulco and meet Sofia, a Chilena girl you arranged to travel down the coast with. And now it is time to get acquainted.

      San Marcos.: Local parts on a nice expensive bike

      Thursday September 6, 2007, 84 km (52 miles) – Total so far: 3,376 km (2,098 miles)

      A guy from the hotel goes with you to find a bike shop and help not to get overcharged. It’s a long way until you find one. He does some interpreting and you go to eat breakfast. You go to pick up the bike but there’s a problem. The gear system is too complicated and will cost 150 US to replace. Or for 5 US you can have a new brake installed on the side of the handlebars. It all sounds well dodgy but it is a bit of price difference involved.

      Best not to hang around watching so you go to find a second breakfast. It is now afternoon. Sofia left much earlier to beat the midday heat. You’ll catch up with her sixty km down the road. Hopefully.

      It’s another twenty km or so to get out of town. Traffic is heavy. There is a big hill to climb. You get a flat tire, and another out of town. Your new gear system looks well dodgy but it works fine. The hills aren’t so big around here. Lots of pigs running about the place. You stop to let a sow and her two piglets cross the road.

      You make it to San Marcos and find Sofia in the first hotel there. It’s quite cheap and even has a pool which you take full advantage of. There doesn’t seem to be much in town. A pizza restaurant looks like your best option for dinner.

      Mequense.: To beach or not to beach

      Friday September 7, 2007, 83 km (52 miles) – Total so far: 3,459 km (2,149 miles)

      It seems that there is a sizable town every forty km with a smaller town about half way between. After the first twenty km you stop and chat to some high school kids who call out. Lunch in Cruz Grande where for the only time today traffic is dense. And on to Mequense. You head off to the Playa to find Sofia but see her on the way back. It’s dirty she says so you find a motel in town, which is probably dirtier, and stay there instead.

      This looks like an alright town. Enough options for food and supplies. Lots of hotels which make you wonder why you’re staying in probably the worst one you could find.

      Puenta Nacional.: Festival in Oaxaca

      Saturday September 8, 2007, 118 km (73 miles) – Total so far: 3,577 km (2,223 miles)

      It’s 120 km to Puenta Nacional. There are many kids about shouting “Gringo’ at you. You don’t reply. You pass Sofia at around one o’clock and arrange to meet for lunch in the next town. But she never comes. You make it into town by dusk and seek out a hotel. One is cheap but it doesn’t have a toilet seat. Oh, by the way, you really do need a toilet seat today.

      You find a place which does tortas. A retired English/American couple come by and you make conversation. Their truck broke down and are trying to sort all that out. You go for a walk and find a big fiesta for indepencia day. Naturally you join in and are given food and beer. There is also a party not far from your hotel.

      As you’re away Sofia comes by looking for you. She is staying at the hotel you passed up on. If only you were here you both could be staying at the nicer hotel a hell of a lot cheaper.

      Towards Puerto Escondido.: Riding on.

      Monday September 10, 2007, 131 km (81 miles) – Total so far: 3,708 km (2,304 miles)

      Yesterday was a much needed rest day. You certainly weren’t in any position to continue. Sofia continues on, probably. The day is spent watching

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