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town and to the hostel you go. Let’s see what this town has to offer.

      Welcome to Bulgaria: Chased by truckstop whores

      Wednesday March 14, 2007, 89 km (55 miles) – Total so far: 1,806 km (1,122 miles)

      So what did you get up to yesterday in Buchuresti? A couple museums, a couple churches, a palace and a monument or two. Just the usual tourist stuff. It needs to be done and is all very interesting and all. Did you step on anyone’s grave to try to take a photo? Probably. But they won’t be complaining too much.

      You see a Korean couple and take them back to show the hostel. You find a couple guys and hang out with them in the evening. A chance meeting with a lovely local girl sees you head to a nice bar with cool live blues music. Then a club. It is all very fine.

      You wake up late. But not that late. A slight headache dogs you for most of the afternoon. You pack and go, saying your goodbyes. Wow. It was great to finally have a crew to hang with.

      You follow the signs out of town. The roads are crap and you get the suspicion that you are going ‘round in circles. But no, you leave Bucuresti and only then does the road improve. It is a freeway in everything but name. And it is great for cycling on. Like its equivalent two days previous to the north, wide shoulders give you plenty of room. But a sharp ditch gives an unpleasant feeling every time a truck passes.

      You stop to buy chocolate and a gypsy tries to sell you a towel. The language barrier doesn’t deter him. You don’t need nor want a towel, even one this ugly. Seventy km later and you make it to the border town. Not seeing any other signs you head to the port. You are told to go back four km and turn right. Back in town some guy tries to sell you a camera. Interesting that you first think about not needing it before the moral consideration of buying this obviously stolen object.

      You find the bridge and border over the Danube. Bulgarian border control on the other side are friendly. Out on the highway you spot a couple girls, one with her skirt hitched up high showing her ass. They also spot you. The other one waves and starts to run after you. Then reality dawns and you realize just what these girls are; truck stop whores. You keep going before thinking otherwise. Well you could always pitch your tent up somewhere. But nah.

      You look back twice. Each time the girl waves frantically after you. A couple more girls are further up. All on the other side of the busy road.

      A sign tempts with offers of accommodation sending you into town. You are about to head back to the highway when a hotel is spotted. But it’s too expensive. Wait, you’re getting confused. He is telling you in Levi, not euro. The price is cheap. And you are given a discount for being so stingy.

      To Velico Turnov: Bulgaria in all its beauty

      Thursday March 15, 2007, 106 km (66 miles) – Total so far: 1,912 km (1,188 miles)

      Back out on the heavy highway shoulders are non-existent but drivers aren’t as unfriendly as the neighbors to the north. The second dog to chase you in Bulgaria appears. This one has four legs and is a little more vicious. But probably safer all the same.

      You stop for a bike to eat. A girl sits nearby. “Sex?” She asks. You turn crimson. She comes over to make matters a little more awkward than they already are. For readers reference the price was fifty levi which is about twenty five euros. You decline her services. The price drops to twenty levi. You should go before you change your mind.

      Later at another restaurant sop you see another girl. This one is obviously working. Is that her young daughter in a mini-skirt? No, it’s just a midget. A working midget? No, you really shouldn’t.

      At around four you see three girls standing beside the road. The first makes a minor effort to flaunt her wares. The second chases after you, shouting to stop. And you have a hill to climb. But those boots are made for walking, not running. The third girl, over the next rise, has very manly features. She doesn’t make any attempt to seduce. You leave the girls to flag down some truckies.

      Perhaps you are just wearisome but it appears that traffic is less friendly in late evenings. A car waits for a better time to pass but the truck behind it is less patient, honking to indicate its unacceptance.

      You make it to Velico Tarnovo. You find the quite empty hostel and head into town for some food and a beer or three.

      The town looks a little different from when you were last here five years ago.

      Velico Turnov.: Rest day

      Saturday March 17, 2007, 10 km (6 miles) – Total so far: 2,044 km (1,270 miles)

      A rest day today sees you visit the fortress and a museum. It is all very nice. Later you ride up to a nearby town. There is an old church with frescos. But it is a rest day so you don’t want to exert yourself too much. After all, you do have a lot of climbing to do tomorrow as you make your way south towards Plovdiv. And you never know how many girls will be chasing after you.

      On the way to Stara Zagora.: A nice night to pitch the tent

      Saturday March 17, 2007, 122 km (76 miles) – Total so far: 2,044 km (1,270 miles)

      The hostel breakfast is just too good. You just don’t want to leave. Never-the-less, you do. The hostel was difficult to find. There are no signs. Apparently a hotel nearby kept taking them down. The hotel manager dissuades you from your chosen route. “Too dangerous’ he says. “Too windy’, ‘too steep’.

      Instead you are sent on a road though longer, has less traffic and is not so steep. Apparently. Either way there is still a mountain to cross. And sure it’s a long way up but the ride down is great!

      The Cyrillic signs are difficult to follow. Sometimes an Anglo equivalent is given but often not. You head to Stara Zagora. You spot another road, heading roughly in the same direction, still in good condition and minus the traffic. A nearby Sheppard confirms both roads head to the same town. So you take the traffic free one. But the Sheppard wants payment for his services. A candy bar perhaps but you don’t have any so you just go.

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