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The Spirit of Stone. Jan Johnsen
Читать онлайн.Название The Spirit of Stone
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isbn 9781943366286
Автор произведения Jan Johnsen
Издательство Ingram
Rock gardens can be located to act as a distinct break between other outdoor areas. For example, a garden of stones and plants may break up a long, monotonous walk or become an interesting destination in a hidden corner. You can create a rock garden on an existing slope or, with a little imagination, you can mound up some soil and make a small rise with rocks set within. This follows the “hill and crest” ideal, where rocks of varying sizes are set in a slope behind and above each other. It is a good idea to plant a backdrop of tall plants to show off this scene. You can also weave a rock or mulched path through the garden. That is what I did in the following example, described in the next few pages.
Did you know?
The art of the stone arrangement in Japan is called sute-ishi. ‘Sute-ji’ means build and ‘ishi’ means stone. It was considered the main element of a gardener’s work.
Sequence for Making a Flowering Rock Garden on a Small Slope
If you have a small slope and a supply of stones, you can convert it into a rock garden featuring low-growing flowering plants. In one overgrown hillside garden, I did just that, rearranging some existing stones and adding larger rocks from the site. You should add several larger stones to act as anchors to give a garden some visual weight and create interest. In this garden, I installed a curving narrow path leading through the rocks and plants. It is for tending to the plants and it also leads the eye through the garden. A small path is a good way to create a unified scene. Here is the sequence we used to renovate this small rock garden:
The rock garden before we started. Rocks are scattered around without an overall composition. There is no backdrop of taller plants to bring the garden in the foreground in focus.
The rock garden during the transformation. You can see the curving path with small rocks used as steps. Some larger rocks were brought in, smaller rocks were rearranged and we planted small plants around them. No backdrop plantings have been installed.
1. Stockpile the stones
First, we dislodged the rocks from the hillside garden and stockpiled them nearby.
2. Bring in some large stones
We brought in a few larger stones from another part of the property. We used a tree dolly, similar to a hand truck, to move the large rocks. I always try to use rocks from the area, if possible, because they are “at home” here. Also, try to use a single type of native rock, of the same color and makeup, for a cohesive appearance.
If you buy stones from a quarry or stoneyard, select stones when they are dry and not silt-covered so you can know the real color of the stone.
3. Dig up and save existing plants
We carefully dug up the existing small plants and set them aside. We mulched them and watered them for safekeeping.
4. Lay out the path
I laid out a narrow curving path leading up the rise with “marking” paint (this looks like spray paint but is specifically for marking the ground). Note – you can always redo your markings, so be free when you do this and then step back to review. If you don’t like it then erase the paint and try again. We removed a few inches of soil to denote the path and tamped the earth with a tamper.
5. Cover the area with good soil
I applied a thick layer of good soil over the site. If you have a sunny site, use a soil mix that is light and freely draining. I used a mix that had 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost. If you are planting plants that like dry conditions, make sure to add very small gravel into the soil for efficient drainage. Rake it smooth.
6. Place the rocks
Now you are ready to “plant” your rocks. I like to use that term because, in a sense, that is what you do in a rock garden. I first added a few flat rocks as steps in the path that went uphill. I then set the larger rocks, in a naturalistic fashion, into the hillside. To do this, you position the rocks the way you like them, then dig them in, backfilling behind the rock with good soil. I often fill behind a rock to set it in a more upright stance, or I may dig it in deeper to make it appear as if it juts out of the earth. See Seven Tips for Placing Rocks in a Rock Garden, on page 45, for advice on setting rocks in the garden.
In order to set rocks, you must be able to maneuver them around. To do this you should have a crowbar, a large digging bar, shovels, strong arms and a strong back. I heartily recommend that you have help for this part of the endeavor! You do not want to put your back out or give yourself a hernia.
Here is the rock garden when it was finished. I planted low growing, flowering perennials for eye-catching summertime color. I also used rocks as steps in the path. Many of the plants are spreaders and need to be pruned often to reveal the rocks. It features sedum, campanula, dianthus and perennial geranium and others. In the background is a dark green backdrop of dense yew (Taxus × media densiformis) and the yellow Missouri evening primrose (Oenothera missourensis).
7. Place and plant the plants
Now comes the fun part – planting up the rock garden. I placed the plants that we had set aside. I spread the plants around the garden, making sure to alter the foliage types and color to create contrast.
Once the plants are in the locations you like, dig the holes and do not plant too deep. I intentionally placed them close together to minimize weeding. Other people plant more sparingly to enjoy each plant individually. It is your choice. Do not use plants that spread too aggressively because the rocks in this garden should be as much of the show as the plants. For specific rock garden plant suggestions, see Chapter 8, Plants and Stone.
8. Mulch, water and admire
Water in the plants thoroughly. Then cover the surface with a 1" layer of very fine organic mulch and water again. You can also use a thin layer of fine gravel as a covering in a rock garden; this is especially appropriate for a “dry garden” that contains a majority of Mediterranean plants. Water the plants well until established, especially during spells of dry weather.
Rock Placement Tips from Ancient Japan
The 11th century Japanese garden manual Sakuteiki says to listen to “the request” of the rocks. They will tell you how best to place them. Shunmyo Masuno, a Japanese Zen Buddhist priest and contemporary garden designer, agrees and says one must “converse” with the stone, waiting “until it seems to speak and say where it wants to be put.” So don’t feel silly if you think the rock is unhappy in a certain position – move it!
Additionally, the Sakuteiki further explains how to set rocks: “Make sure that all the stones, right down to the front of the arrangement, are placed with their best sides showing. If a stone has an ugly-looking top you should place it so as to give prominence to its side. Even if this means it has to lean at a considerable angle, no one will notice. There should always be more horizontal than vertical stones. If there are “running away” stones there must be “chasing” stones. If there are “leaning” stones, there must be “supporting” stones.”
Moving Large Rocks
Give me a lever and I can move the world
~ Archimedes
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