Скачать книгу

91-333d-5c36-a6fe-c736880bbfb3">

      

      First published in Great Britain by Fourth Estate 2015

      An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers

      1 London Bridge Street

      London SE1 9GF

       www.4thestate.co.uk

      FIRST EDITION

      Text © Joanna Blythman 2015

      Original lettuce photograph © Shutterstock

      Joanna Blythman asserts the moral right to

      be identified as the author of this work

      A catalogue record for this book is

      available from the British Library

      All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

      Find out about HarperCollins and the environment at

       www.harpercollins.co.uk/green

      Source ISBN: 9780007548330

      Ebook Edition © JANUARY 2015 ISBN: 9780007548347

      Version: 2015-12-04

      In memory of Derek Cooper,

      a fellow foot soldier in the food wars.

      Contents

       Cover

       Title page

       Copyright

       Dedication

       Introduction

       PART ONE: How the processed food system works

       1 Why it all tastes the same

       2 On the factory floor

       3 Clean label

       4 At the food makers’ market

       5 Fresh in store

       PART TWO: The defining characteristics of processed food

       6 Sweet

       7 Oily

       8 Flavoured

       9 Coloured

       10 Watery

       11 Starchy

       12 Tricky

       13 Old

       14 Packed

       Postscript

       Notes

       Index

       Acknowledgements

       By the same author

       About the publisher

      Journalists don’t like to be palmed off with half the story, but even though I had 25 years of food chain investigations under my belt, six books to my name, and a collection of awards and gongs on my trophy shelf, I had a sneaking suspicion that this was exactly what was happening. Unanswered, or only partially answered, questions about the food we consume each day nagged away at the back of my mind. How ‘natural’ is the process for making a ‘natural’ flavouring? What, exactly, is modified starch, and why is this ingredient in so many foods? What is done to pitta bread to make it stay ‘fresh’ for six months? Why, when I eat a supermarket salad, does the taste linger in my mouth for several hours after? Slowly but surely, I realised just how little information about food production methods is in the public realm, despite the best efforts of those of us who interrogate the inner workings of the industry.

      Now this assessment might seem counterintuitive, after all, you would be right in thinking that food exposés are a staple ingredient in news headlines. The media attention lavished on food fraud in particular is not inconsiderable. Thanks to such revelations, we know, for example, that crooks have illegally fed a stream of horsemeat into some of our most popular processed meats. We suspect, with some justification, that such incidents are only the tip of an iceberg.

      But my frustration, my sense of not quite getting to the bottom of the story, was more fundamental. Forget illegal activities in the food chain, what about the perfectly legal activities that go on every day behind the scenes? What do we know about them? I’m not talking about primary food producers, farmers and growers; what happens down on the farm and out in the fields. This link in our food chain is passably well policed and transparent. Nor am I talking about the abattoir where, once again, there are regular inspections, even the occasional undercover reporter from a vigilant animal welfare group, armed with a video camera. No, my growing preoccupation was just

Скачать книгу