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      Livingstone’s Tribe

       A Journey from Zanzibar to the Cape

      STEPHEN TAYLOR

       Copyright

      William Collins

      An Imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF

       www.harpercollins.co.uk

      This edition 2000

      First published in Great Britain by HarperCollinsPublishers 1999

      Copyright © Stephen Taylor 1999

      The Author asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

      Maps copyright © Duncan Stewart 1999

      All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

      Source ISBN: 9780006550693

      Ebook Edition © FEBRUARY 2016 ISBN 9780007394661

      Version: 2016-01-12

      HarperCollinsPublishers has made every reasonable effort to ensure that any picture content and written content in this ebook has been included or removed in accordance with the contractual and technological constraints in operation at the time of publication.

       Dedication

       To my children, Wilfred and Juliette

      Contents

       Cover

       Title Page

       6. The Hills

       7. The River

       8. The Mountains

       9. The Valley

       10. The Plains

       11. The Steppe

       PART TWO COMING BACK

       12. The Lake

       13. The Mission

       14. The Escarpment

       15. The Plateau

       16. The Ridge

       17. The Kraal

       18. The Reef

       19. The Bay

       Glossary

       Bibliography

       Index

       Acknowledgements

       About the Author

       About the Publisher

       Preface

      THIS IS AN ACCOUNT of a journey in search of a dying tribe. Even at the time I was travelling, in 1997, it was clear that whites as an ethnic minority were doomed in most parts of Africa. It seemed as though the colonial era had belonged to another century rather than to the previous generation. In Tanzania, Uganda, Malawi and Zambia the whites had all but disappeared; in Kenya they clung on diffidently. In Southern Africa, however, there remained hope. Although politically redundant, their economic influence appeared to assure them a future.

      My interest in the whites who stayed on in what used to be rather quaintly known as ‘Black Africa’ dates back to the imperial retreat. From the bastion of South Africa, I grew up in the 1960s observing what became a familiar process. As each new African state acquired its independence, the old colonial hands would decamp. Some returned to Britain, but most flinched from the prospect of rationed sunlight and costly alcohol. Ultimately, much of this human debris was borne by the winds of change to South Africa.

      The fact that the withdrawal coincided with the seemingly unstoppable rise of apartheid helped shape my own response to these events. When self-styled refugees from African rule came among us, bursting with the same racism as the dour, resentful xenophobes in charge of our own society, it seemed only natural to identify with those they had left behind. Even when the promise of uhuru gave way to cupidity, corruption and worse, the whites who continued to identify with African aspirations to the extent of sharing their fate acquired a certain defiantly heroic status.

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