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continued to grow seemingly unstoppably.

      The Taylors were not the Cadbury brothers’ only competition in the capital. There was also Messrs Dunn and Hewett of Pentonville, who sold an enterprising range of cocoas that included Vanilla Shilling Chocolate sold ‘unwrapped’, various types of Chocolate Sticks in tin foil, and a curious Patent Lentilised Chocolate sold in ‘half pound canisters’. The early chocolate drinks made with powdered lentils, tapioca, dried peas or sago to mop up the cocoa fats were possibly not for connoisseurs, but these thick, rich cocoa-soups did satisfy the untried tastebuds of many a Londoner. And for the really hard-up, Dunn and Hewett promoted a slightly fatty ‘Plain Chocolate Sold in Drab Paper’.

      In addition to London there were regional centres of chocolate production, notably at York, where the apprentice George Cadbury had himself witnessed the daring and confidence of Henry Rowntree on his entry into the world of the chocolatier. Within two years of starting at Tuke & Co., Henry was in a position to buy out the company’s entire cocoa division.

      Henry could see that the Tuke premises, situated in the narrow, winding Castlegate in the heart of the old city of York, were too cramped for the expansion he planned. In buccaneer spirit he bought for £1,000 what he called a ‘wonderful new machine’ for grinding beans. Included in the sale was a motley collection of collapsing buildings at Tanners Moat near the centre of York, which he optimistically described as his chocolate factory: an ancient ironworks, an alehouse, and several cottages in various stages of disrepair, all of them practically falling into the putrid-smelling River Ouse. Henry explored the ruinous site with enthusiasm, smelling only chocolate as he glimpsed the river’s black and treacherous water.

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      The Rowntree factory at Tanners Moat in York in 1901.

      The company’s leading brand had been Tuke’s Superior Rock Cocoa, which Henry duly relabelled as Rowntree’s Prize Medal Rock Cocoa after it won a prize at a local fair. To promote his wares, Henry extolled the virtues of his Rowntree’s Rock Cocoa compared to rival brands. He evidently had a sense of humour and his use of a quotation from Deuteronomy was no doubt appreciated by those listeners who knew their Bible: ‘For their Rock is not as our Rock, even our enemies themselves being judges.’ As Henry embarked on transforming the Tanners Moat works into a modern factory that could churn out his Rock Cocoa to sell across England, George Cadbury knew that this rival had the determination to succeed.

      There were other firms in York poised to benefit from the arrival of the railway. By the middle of the nineteenth century, the twelve trains a day leaving London were delivering 275,000 visitors to York in a year. Joseph Terry and his brothers, who had inherited their father’s confectionery business in 1854, took advantage of this new opportunity. Starting back in 1767, their forebears had sold boiled sweets and candied peel to the rich from their enticing sweet shop not far from Rowntree’s grocer’s shop. Opening the shop door ushered the customer into a magical Hansel and Gretel world of sugared strawberries, raspberries, lemons and oranges.

      With the arrival of the railways, Joseph Terry was soon selling to customers in more than seventy-five towns across the Midlands and the north of England. To meet the rising demand, he moved his manufacturing in 1862 to a larger site beside the River Ouse, just outside York’s city walls, to which the twice-weekly steam packet brought deliveries of exotic fruits and cocoa. In the 1860s Terry was looking closely at how to diversify his range by making more use of cocoa in chocolate-covered nuts and sweets.

      But the Cadburys – and the other cocoa manufacturers – faced their stiffest competition from a giant Quaker concern in Bristol: Fry and Sons. The Frys ran the largest cocoa works in the world, so large it was fast shaping the city of Bristol. Their factory was the size of a small town, their sprawling works easily accommodating all the varied processes of production. This was cocoa-making for England. The Cadburys’ little plant could not compete.

      Rather than being daunted by the size of the Fry enterprise, George Cadbury was intrigued. ‘I never looked at the small people or the people who had failed,’ he declared. ‘I wanted to know how men succeeded, and it was their methods I examined, and if I thought them good, applied.’ Through the Quaker network he was able to approach the Frys in Bristol, and found one partner, Francis James Fry, who was prepared to take him under his wing. Francis Fry and George Cadbury formed a loose alliance of English cocoa-makers which met, for convenience, in the London offices of the Taylor brothers.

      ‘I suppose we had some energy,’ George recalled years later, ‘for Francis James Fry elected to go round with me to see the Cocoa and Chocolate Manufacturers.’ George was surprised by this, remarking, ‘I was a young man in a small business compared to his.’ A year older than George, Francis James was the fourth generation of his family to run the firm. With Fry’s sales approaching a colossal £100,000 a year, he must have felt secure in the knowledge that the young Cadbury brothers were no threat.

      George Cadbury had everything to learn about the development of a family firm from his Fry counterpart – and he did. The Bristol firm, he noted, from its earliest years, had had an outstanding reputation for innovation.

      The story of the house of Fry opens in Bristol at a time when the city had more in common with the Tudor period than the modern world. Born in 1728 into a Wiltshire Quaker family, Francis James Fry’s great-grandfather, Joseph Fry, who had trained as an apothecary, came to Bristol as a young man seeking an opportunity.

      At the time, Bristol was the West Country hub for trade, and as a port was second only to London. On the quayside the harbour opened onto a forest of rigging and sails from a multitude of ships arriving from and departing for the New World. The port was packed with sailors, slaves and merchants, the air heavy with the scent of rum and tar, and marvels from the New World such as sugar and cocoa that were unloaded into wagons and warehouses. In the eighteenth century the Flying Coach, drawn by relays of six to eight horses, made it possible to reach London in two days.

      Joseph Fry, a sober figure in his plain Quaker clothes, took a tiny shop in Small Street and began his apothecary business in 1753, at a time when it was still customary for such businesses to keep jars of leeches in the window. As a sideline to his pills and potions he sold cocoa, which he promoted as a health drink, and a highly nutritious alternative to alcohol. Fry’s chocolate drink became popular in fashionable nearby Bath, where smart coffee houses were soon selling it to the aristocracy.

      In just eight years, Joseph Fry was in a position to take over the leading cocoa manufacturer in the area, Walter Churchman. While Fry’s cocoa drink consisted of the oily cocoa flakes and powder in suspension in liquid, Churchman’s was clearly superior. Its secret rested on a patent he had taken out in 1729 for ‘an invention and new method for the better making of chocolate by an engine’. This was a water-powered machine that enabled him to create a much finer cocoa powder than anyone else. Once Fry had secured the recipe, his Churchman’s Chocolate became very popular.

      Joseph Fry was inventive, and seized his chances to develop his business. By 1764 he had agents promoting his products in no fewer than fifty-three towns, and was in a position to open a warehouse in London. In 1777 he moved his cocoa manufactory to larger premises in the fashionable Union Street, then on the banks of the River Frome, and used water power to drive the cocoa-grinding mills. His business interests were many and varied, and under his concerned gaze and industrial ‘green fingers’ everything he touched flourished. He owned a share in the Bristol China Works, created a type foundry in London, was a partner in a large soap- and candle-making business in Bristol, and bought a share of a chemical works in Battersea. This was some feat for a businessman before the age of railways, telegraphs and telephones, and with little means of communication beyond the Flying Coach and the Penny Post.

      In 1795 Joseph’s son, Joseph Storrs Fry, inherited the cocoa business and continued to develop the Union Street works. Since the water flow from the River Frome was not reliable, he took the remarkable step of installing one of James Watt’s first steam engines. To the astonishment of the workers, this clanking, hissing mechanical marvel

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