From the Thames to the Tiber - Joseph Wardle

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Emperor Titus completed it in the year 80 A.D.  Historians tell us it was built by the forced labour of Jews and Christians.  Its architect, they tell us, was one “Gaudentius,” who afterwards became a Christian, and died a martyr within the walls he himself had planned and helped to build.  Originally it would hold in all 100,000 people, and 90,000 could be seated in its vast galleries and rooms.  It would cover, apparently, about six acres of land.  Down to the sixth century it remained in its beauty undiminished, and little decayed.  Inside the vast building was a fine statue of Nero.  The extreme length of the walls outside are about six hundred feet, and the width nearly five hundred feet.  There was originally a portico carried round the whole building, adorned with gilded columns, while statues of the finest marble filled the arcades, and there were rich awnings of silk for a protection from the sun’s heat.  It is stated the carnival lasted for several weeks, and no less than five thousand wild beasts, some from the Indian Jungles, and some from the African morasses took part.  These terrible gladiator fights were the amusements for the aristocracy of Italy, and were attended by stately courtiers and the nobles of the land.  We saw the bars still standing in the ruins, behind which the wild beasts lurked, waiting to be turned into the arena to fight with gladiators, i.e., men trained, who with their lives in their hands were prepared for this terrible ordeal.  If they came out with the trophy they were applauded, and with honours escorted through the streets of Rome.

      Sometimes, at the bidding of the wicked Emperor Nero, one hundred Christians would be brought into the arena, when a vast crowd would be present to watch four or five lions and as many tigers turned in, wild with fury, and mad with hunger, the Christian martyrs were soon delivered from their fleshly tenement and went up to their reward.  It is said that St. Ignatius was brought from Antioch to be devoured by these wild beasts.  Church traditions record many martyrs within these now ruins.  Byron says:

      “I see before me the Gladiator lie;

      He leans upon his hand, his manly brow

      Consents to death, but conquers agony.

      The arena swims around him, he is gone

      E’er ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who won.

      He heard it, but he heeded not; his eyes

      Were with his heart, and that was far away.

      There were his young barbarians all at play.

      There was their Dacian mother—he their sire

      Butchered to make a Roman holiday.”

      Or Keble:

      “And now the gratings ope, with hideous roar

      Leap forth those hungry brutes, while kneel in prayer,

      Those heaps of Christians, how their spirits soar

      Above or wounds or death.”

      I stood and gazed, and thought, by those terrible ruins.  I think I was as much affected as when I stood and gazed upon those marvellous structures, the Pyramids of Egypt.  I took a snap-shot of my dear little wife within the ruins of the Colosseum, and we left it to ponder over its history and its ruin.  We thought of the prophecy in prose of an Anglo-Saxon Pilgrim.  He said: “While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand; when falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall.  And when Rome falls—the world.”

      “The Pantheon” was one of the places we were delighted with.  This dated from before Christ’s time, and is now in a wonderful state of preservation.  It was originally dedicated by Agrippa to “All the gods.”  It was consecrated as a church in the year 610 A.D. by Pope Boniface IV., under the name of St. Maria.  The portico consists of sixteen granite corinthian columns nearly forty feet high, eight in the front and the others in three colonnades.  Inside, we were struck with its beauty, especially by the arrangement for light which comes from a vast dome over our heads.  We walked reverently as we knew we were walking on the very same pavement as Augustus and Agrippa, and others whose dust has long centuries ago, gone to its mother earth.  Here rest the remains of one of the world’s greatest painters—Raphael.  He was buried in 1620.  In recent years a doubt was raised as to whether he really was buried here, and a search was allowed and made in 1833, it was then ascertained beyond the shadow of a doubt that he was buried here, as his remains were intact.  On leaving the Pantheon, and before crossing the Tiber, we were reminded of the poet’s words referring to this church: “Simple, erect, austere, sublime—Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods from Jove to Jesus—Spared and blest by time, looking tranquilly while falls or nods arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods his way through thorns and ashes—glorious dome! shalt thou not last?  Times’ scythe and tyrant’s rods shiver upon thee—Sanctuary and home of art and piety—Pantheon!  Pride of Rome.”

      After crossing the Tiber on one of its many wonderful bridges, adorned on each side by statues in stone of the celebrities of all ages, we found that just opposite this bridge is what is called the Castle of St. Angelo.  An immense pile, circular in form, on its summit a large monument, and in front a clock of very large dimensions.  It was erected by the Emperor Adrian, and intended to be for his own tomb and those of succeeding kings or emperors.  We did not go inside, but we learned it was fitted and filled with the finest works of art, specially that in marble finished by the sculptor’s chisel.  From here we started to drive to our hotel, for we were satiated with the wonderful sights of Rome.  We passed the Palace of Justice, a modern building, indeed, only just having the finishing touches put upon it.  It is of granite, the size is immense and the appearance noble.  As we passed, churches and theatres seemed to be numerous.  Gay and grave, sad and happy, new and old.  There “Beeston Humber Motor Cycle” advertised.  There the ruins of a building that had stood for a thousand years.

      The Column of Trajan calls for a passing note.  It is a fine specimen of the Doric order, and very fortunately it is in a good state of preservation.  On three sides of the pedestal there are bas-reliefs, on the fourth side is an inscription to Trajan’s tomb.  On the column are over 20 very fine carvings, representing the various wars in which he had taken part.  On the top is a fine statue of the Apostle St. Peter.  As we stood and looked upon this ancient monument and thought of the fact that it had stood there for well nigh on 2,000 years, we re-called the words of a poet who represents fairly the condition of things in Trajan’s day.

      B. E. H. Plumbtree says:

      “Through haughty Rome’s imperial street

      The mighty Trajan rode,

      And myrrh and balm and spices sweet

      In silver censers glowed;

      In car of state erect he stood,

      And round him rushing like a flood

      The people poured with shout and song,

      And every eye through all that throng

      Turned to him with delight.

      For he had triumphed far and wide,

      Had sated Rome’s high-soaring pride,

      And, laying captive nations low,

      Now dragged the pale and trembling foe

      Bent down in sore affright.

      And still before him spread afar

      New pathways for his conquering car,

      More crowns of world-wide fame to win

      ’Mid shouts of warriors battle din:

      One triumph being o’er he spurned

      And still his fevered spirit burned

      New realms, new worlds to gain.

      And still his legions on he led,

      Legions that ne’er from foe had fled,

      The glory of his reign.”

      We left the mighty column standing in its solitary grandeur, a memorial of man’s achievement, while yet other things around us testified to the instability of all earthly things.  “Change and decay in all around I see.”

      We reached our hotel tired and hungry. 

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