LITMIR.BIZ

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may have been the actual condition of the hat business of Baltimore just before the Revolution has been difficult to ascertain. Mr. Shields must have been in business during this period, and it is more than probable that in a town of the size of Baltimore at that date there must have been others engaged in this branch of business, but how many and who they were cannot be ascertained. It is very likely that the restriction placed by English rule upon most manufacturing industries prior to the Revolution operated detrimentally upon this industry also, and while the ordinary kind of wool felt hats were made by the hatter in his own shop, undoubtedly most of the fashionable hats sold and worn at that time were of English or French make. Paris (which then, as well as now, was the axis upon which revolved the world of fashion) possibly supplied the wants of Baltimore's highborn gentry, always famous for exquisite dress and refined taste, with the French chapeau – the ton of those days.

      As there are no existing detailed statistics of the business of Baltimore during the Revolutionary War, the record of some business firms has been entirely lost, and although some trades have received slight mention in the published histories of the city, a trace of the existence of but two hatters, who afterwards continued in business, is to be found. Since it is known as a fact that fourteen hatters were engaged in business in Baltimore, not later than ten years after the close of the war, we have a right to suppose that more than two must have been in business during the existence of the war.

      Among the proceedings of the "Council of Safety" of Maryland, organized at the outbreak of the war, is found the following order: "March 2, 1776. The Council of Safety authorize Major Gist to contract for fifty camp-kettles and as many hats as may be necessary for the battalion, not to exceed 7 shillings apiece." Again, April 6, 1776, "Commissary of Stores of Baltimore is ordered to send to Annapolis 200 of the hats arrived from Philadelphia." Why Baltimore hatters did not supply the needed hats for Maryland militia we cannot say, but probably a sharp competition for so large a contract wrested it from them.

      The adoption of the "cocked" hat in its various forms as a portion of the military costume of the Continental Army brought about the necessity of making a distinction between civil and military wear.

      After the close of the American Revolution France was in a state of civil insurrection, and the French "chapeau" of that time was constructed upon a plan somewhat similar to that of the "cocked" hat. With the termination of the French Revolution appeared the "steeple-top" hat, having a conical crown with stiff curled brim, drooping front and rear, being trimmed with a very wide band and ornamented in front with a huge metal buckle, a change radical enough from those preceding it, but admitting a question as to its comparative intrinsic beauty or to its being a more becoming part of male attire; the style withal certainly proved acceptable, for with slight modifications it has continued and is now embodied in the fashionable silk hat of the present time.

      Thus with the opening of the nineteenth century commenced the era of what may be correctly termed the high hat. Ashton, in "Old Times," says of the style of 1790-95: "The 'cocked' hat had gone out, and the galling yoke of the 'chimney pot' was being inaugurated, which was as yet of limp felt."

      In fashions prevailing at the opening of the new century, particularly those of wearing apparel both for ladies and gentlemen, Paris took the lead, and though with many articles to-day Parisian designs and ideas secure the largest share of popularity, yet in regard to hats for gentlemen it can proudly be said that American-made hats are ahead in point of style and quality, and are no longer dependent upon foreign ingenuity for assistance in securing for them a ready sale; in fact, no American industry to-day stands in a more enviable position relatively to foreign manufactures than does that of hat-making.

      The fancy for sentimental hits and political phrases indulged in by modern hatters seems to have been the rage at an earlier period, as is evident from the following, published in the London Times of December 4, 1795: "If the young men of the present day have not much wit in their heads they have it at least in their hats." Among the pleasantries we have seen in this way are the following: "Not yours," "Hands off," "No vermin," and "Rip this as you would a hot potato," and other charming sallies of refined and elegant vivacity.

      But the wittiest linings are the political ones. The other day we observed one perfectly clean and tidy in which was written: "Avaunt! Guinea Pig," and on the lining of a very powdery hat that lay in the window of the same room were inscribed the two monosyllables "Off-crop." "Guinea pig" and "Off-crop" were probably local political distinctions of the day.

      AFTER THE REVOLUTION

No. 4

      NOT until after the Revolution is it apparent that any attempt was made in Baltimore to concentrate the hatting industry into a legitimate business upon any extensive scale, or to separate the manufacturing from the retail branch of business; in fact, far into the new century was it the practice of those who manufactured extensively for the trade, to continue to keep in operation also a retail establishment.

      The general system of conducting the hat business at the time of which we are now writing was for the hatter to have his "back shop" in the rear and accessible to the "front shop," where the proprietor and his "prentice hand" made the needed supply for the existing or future small demand likely to come; for hats in those days were "built" for service, not for show, and in a manner quite different from those suited to the modern requirement of almost a monthly change in style. Then the principle demand came from maturing youth, desiring to assume suitable dignity for entrance into manhood, by procuring a "beaver" which, unless he lived to a patriarchal age, might serve him during his natural life, and that, too, without fear of banishment from society for being out of the fashion.

      In the first "Baltimore City Directory," printed in the year 1796, appear the names of nineteen hatters; the business locations of some of the number, it is curious to observe, being at places hardly recognizable by those living at the present day.

      Gay street, prior to the year 1808, extended from the water to Griffith's bridge (now called Gay-street bridge), beyond which it was called Bridge street; German lane is now German street; East street is Fayette street, and the euphonious name of Cowpen alley is now dignified by that of Garrett street. Baltimore street was then called Market street, and for a long time after was often designated by either name.

      The following names and localities of hatters are found in the Baltimore City Directory published in 1796:

      Richard Averson, German lane, between Howard and Liberty streets.

      Joseph Burnet, Welcome alley, Federal Hill.

      Peter Bond, 13 Bridge street, Old Town.

      William Branson, 131 Market street.

      Peter Beze, 31 Charles street.

      Frederick Deems, Cowpen alley.

      Joseph Burneston, 17 George street, Fell's Point.

      " Shop, 19 George street, Fell's Point.

      George Littig, 141 Market street, Shop on "The Causeway."

      Arnold Livers, Shop, 24 South Calvert street.

      Aaron Mattison, Shop, East street, between Calvert and Gay.

      William Mockbee, East street, between St. Paul's lane and Charles street.

      Gasper Morelli, 36 Charles street.

      John Parks, Shop, 14 Light street.

      Jacob Rogers, 29 South street.

      George Smith, 101 Bond street.

      David Shields, 14 North Gay street.

      John Steiger, 250 Market street.

      John Underwood, Alley between St. Paul's lane and Calvert street.

      Daniel Weaver, 19 Front street.

      Judging from localities here given, ten of this number were engaged in business as principals, the others were probably journeymen, working at their trade in the various shops in the town.

      John Parks, who did business at 14 Light street, had his residence at 137 Market street, about the location now occupied by Clogg & Son as a Shoe store. In the year 1802, No. 137 Market street was occupied by John

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