Understanding Wood Finishing, 3rd Revised Edition - Bryan Lynch

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types of needles in your pack.)

      Illustration PARA-TIP: Keep It Sharp

      A sharp cutting tool will always give clean cuts. If a clean cut is not made, the material will fray a lot and the yarns will be sticking out.

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      1. Make two clean cuts, one on each end of the cord. Push the outer sheath back so that about 1–2 in. (2.5–5 cm) of the inner strands are exposed. Then, cut those strands off and pull the outer sheath back up so that the last 1 in. (2.5 cm) of the outer sheath feels hollow. Repeat this process for the other cut end of paracord. The other ends of the cords should be melted and turned into a fine point by rolling the melted ends between your fingers.

      Once the hollow ends are in place, cut a hole in one side of the outer sheath that is about ½–1 in. (1.3–2.5 cm) from the end. Thread one pointed end of one piece through the hole of the other piece and pull the strand through, leaving a few inches (about 10 centimeters) on one side.

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      2. Take the melted pointed end of the white cord and thread it through the cut hole and out of the open end of the black cord.

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      3. Take the melted end of the black cord and thread it through the hole and out of the open end of the white cord. Pull the two lengths taut.

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      4. Give the two lengths a good tug in opposing directions. Lightly burn this connection and smooth it out.

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      5. Be careful not to melt too much or the connection will be weakened.

      In this section we will review some of the tools and materials that make working with paracord much easier and more enjoyable.

      Pictured below:

      A Victorinox Hunter Pro knife

      B Lighter

      C Scissors

      D Ezzzy-Jig Bracelet Maker

      E Monkey fist jig

      F Hemostats

      G EZ Splicer splicing tool

      H Upholstery needle

      I Paracord lacing needle

      J Tape measure

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      The Essentials: Knife and Lighter

      The first two tools are very basic and you should carry them on your person at all times in the wilderness: a sharp knife (A) and a lighter (B). The knife is used to make clean cuts, which you need when fusing paracord ends together (see here). At home you can use sharp scissors (C) instead of a knife. The lighter is used to melt the cut ends for joining two pieces of paracord to one another, ending a braid, or closing off a cut end. (If the end of a cut length of paracord is left open, the inner yarns will continuously creep out from the sheath as the cordage is shuffled around.)

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      Faster Survival Bracelets: Bracelet Jigs

      If you plan to make a lot of bracelets, I recommend getting a bracelet-making jig (D). The jig can be set up with exact measurements, and it securely holds the bracelet ends, leaving your hands free to braid much faster. I went a number of years making bracelets without a jig, and I’m glad that I finally got one. You may also want a monkey fist jig (E) (see here).

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      Needle-Nose Pliers or Hemostats

      I also like to have a pair of needle-nose pliers or hemostats (F) on hand. They help in pulling paracord through tight spaces. They really save time and your fingertips during certain repetitive braids. A splicing tool (G) is also very helpful in pulling paracord through knots or tight loops.

      Needles for Sewing and Lacing

      These last two tools I not only use at home but also carry in my pack. I carry normal sewing/upholstery needles (H) as well as a large paracord lacing needle (I). The lacing needle makes braiding projects so much faster and easier. It consists of a hollow needle that an end of paracord can be threaded into. I find these tools not only speed up the work, but also sometimes make the work possible.

      Tape Measure

      You can estimate many lengths, but a tape measure (J) will make your work more precise and prevent you from wasting too much extra paracord.

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      There are a variety of accessories for paracord projects, but these are the ones that I use for outdoors and survival projects. First there is the buckle or closure, used as a means of clasping two ends together for a bracelet, strap, or dog collar. Plastic buckles (A) have come a long way in recent years because companies have figured out how to add some cool tools within the buckles. Some have compasses, ferrocerium rods, whistles, and a knife built right into them. However, if you don’t mind spending a few more dollars, metal buckles and shackles are much more durable and have more potential uses in a survival situation.

      Crafting beads can be used to give any project a sharper or more colorful appearance. I use them for pace count beads (see the project here), which some people may know as ranger beads. These are used to judge walking distances when you don’t have more advanced technology. Plastic toggles (B) can be used in the place of beads, although you would need a number of them for making ranger beads. They are also helpful in gear repair as well as for making pull cord pouches.

      Key rings (C), though simple in nature, can help with repairing gear as well as having a multitude of other functions. I always carry a small handful of these in my pack.

Illustration

      Pictured left to right: buckles (A) (the first is a plain plastic buckle, while the second has a built-in signal whistle and ferrocerium rod), adjustable metal shackle buckles, clasp, 1 in. (2.5 cm) diameter ball bearing, leash clasp, plastic toggle (B), and (at bottom) an assortment of key rings (C) and lanyard hooks.

      Not knowing how to properly pack paracord away will give you a tangled, knotted

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