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      “A glorious love letter to the world’s greatest city. . . . Will take its place next to classics by Lafcadio Hearn, Edward Seidensticker, Donald Richie, and Ian Buruma that succeed in articulating the hold that Japan has on the hearts of so many of us gaijin.” R. Taggart Murphy, author of Japan and the Shackles of the Past and The Weight of the Yen

      “Reads like a Japanese comic. A vivid, fast-paced paean to a great city, and Robert Whiting’s emotional journey to reconciling his insider/outsider status. Wonderful!” Dan Slater, Director, The Delphi Network

      “A complex, captivating portrait of a city that is both insular and welcoming, and is now one of the world’s top tourist destinations.” Foreword Reviews

      “Whiting’s ability to craft history lessons as narrative epics that captivate an audience and paint a stunning portrait of what Tokyo’s culture and history mean to the world at large is unparalleled.” Sherry Marsh, executive producer of History Channel’s Vikings and the upcoming adaptation of Robert Whiting’s Tokyo Underworld

      “Every visitor to Japan, every student of Japanese culture, and every diplomat posted there should have a copy. . . . An essential guide to understanding the country and its people.” Derek Shearer, former US ambassador and professor of diplomacy

      “Whiting is the consummate raconteur, regaling readers with tales of bawdy exploits, how to befriend yakuza, and the art of hard living in a book brimming with wry humor and empathy.” Jeff Kingston, Director of Asian Studies, Temple University Japan and author of Japan (Polity Histories)

      “Seduced by its bustle and underworld hustle, Bob Whiting has spent decades exploring the hidden corners of Tokyo and the Japanese psyche. From yakuza to baseball and dirty politics to gleaming skyscrapers—he takes you on the intercultural journey of a lifetime.” Joseph Shaules, Director, Japan Intercultural Institute

      “What a joy!” Nicholas Pileggi, author of Wiseguy and Casino and screenwriter of Goodfellas and Casino

      Stone Bridge Press

      P. O. Box 8208, Berkeley, CA 94707

      TEL 510-524-8732 • [email protected]www.stonebridge.com

      Names of modern-day Japanese are given in Western order, family name last, and Japanese words appear without macrons.

      Front cover design by Linda Ronan using images by Sebastian Hages (alley) and Jaison Lin (cityscape).

      Text © 2021 Robert Whiting

      All photos © Robert Whiting with the exception of the following, which appear on the pages listed below with permission from their respective sources: ALAMY: 112, 124, 159, 162, 198, 340. ASSOCIATED PRESS: 51. FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB OF JAPAN: 322. GETTY IMAGES: 18, 31, 70, 85, 132 [3], 365. GREG DAVIS: 279. HITOMI WATANBE: 132 [2]. KODANSHA: 230 [2]. KYODO NEWS: 296 [1], 297 [3, 4]. MAINICHI SHIMBUN: 22, 248, 249. SHUTTERSTOCK: 40, 88, 107, 268, 291, 327, 303, 335, 348, 349, 355, 360, 363. SANKEI SHIMBUN: 2, 60 [1, 2], 61 [3, 4, 5], 69, 71, 121, 132 [1], 133 [4, 5], 139, 193, 200, 205, 211, 218, 223, 230 [1], 231 [3], 247, 253, 265, 306, 313, 318, 330. SEIJI KURATA, COURTESY OF ZEN FOTO GALLERY: 297 [3]. STARS AND STRIPES: 28. THE KATSUMI WATANABE ESTATE, COURTESY OF ANDREW ROTH INC.: 175. WATTENTION: 45, 369. WILLIAM KLEIN: 34. YOAV AZIZ ON UNSPLASH: 104.

      All rights reserved.

      No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

      Printed in the United States of America.

      10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2025 2024 2023 2022 2021

      p-ISBN 978-1-61172-067-9

      e-ISBN 978-1-61172-949-8