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State Natural Area, about 40 miles west of Bandera in Vanderpool (
www.tpwd.texas.gove/state-park/lost-maples;
830/966-3413), in autumn, when the leaves put on a brilliant show. But birders come in winter to look at bald eagles, hikers like the wildflower array in spring, and in summer, anglers do their best to reduce the Guadalupe bass population of the Sabinal River.
Where to Eat in Bandera
If you’re looking for Tex-Mex or country cooking with lots of local atmosphere and little harm to your wallet, you’ve come to the right place. Typical is O.S.T., 311 Main St. (www.ostbandera.com; 830/796-3836), named for the Old Spanish Trail that used to run through Bandera; it’s been open since 1921. Check out the John Wayne room, covered in photos and old movie posters of “the Duke.” Brick’s River Cafe, 1105 Main St. (www.bricksrivercafe.com; 830/460-3200), behind the River Oak Inn at the north end of town, serves up down-home standards such as chicken-fried steak, fried catfish, and liver and onions. From a seat on the back deck (half enclosed, half open-air), you can look out over the Medina River. Mi Pueblo, 706 Main St. ( 830/796-8040), is known for its generous portions of dishes like enchiladas verde, carnitas, and breakfast burritos. The huge TJ’s at the Old Forge, 807 Main St. (www.tjsoldforge.com; 830/796-9990), which calls its atmosphere “modern Western,” has a nice selection of salads, fish, and lighter fare alongside its burgers and steaks. The two-tiered dining room has bars with TVs tuned to the latest games.
It’s worth the 13-mile drive northwest of Bandera, via gorgeously scenic Hwy. 16, to visit the little town of Medina, which calls itself the Apple Capital of Texas. Love Creek Orchards (www.lovecreekorchards.com; 800/449-0882 or 830/589-2202) on the main street runs the Apple Store Bakery & Patio Café, which sells apple pies and other fresh-baked goods, as well as apple cider, apple syrup, apple butter, apple jam, and apple ice cream. Not feeling fruity? The restaurant out back serves some of the best burgers in the area.
Staying at a guest ranch
Accommodations in the Bandera area range from rustic cabins and RV hook-ups to upscale B&Bs, but if you’re looking for lots of activities and/or a genuinely relaxing getaway, stay at one of Bandera’s many guest ranches. The Bandera website (www.banderacowboycapital.com) has a full listing of them; below are some of our favorites. Rates at all the following are based on double occupancy and, unless otherwise specified, include three meals, two trail rides, and most other activities.
Note that most guest ranches have a 2-night (or more) minimum stay, but honestly, you wouldn’t want to spend less time than that at a dude ranch—it’ll take at least half a day to start to unwind. Expect to encounter lots of European visitors; chat with them and you’ll learn about all the best beers in Texas—and Germany.
The Dixie Dude Ranch, 833 Dixie Dude Ranch Rd. (www.dixieduderanch.com; 800/375-YALL [375-9255] or 830/796-7771), is still a working ranch, run by a seventh-generation Texan. You’re likely to see white-tailed deer or wild turkeys as you trot on horseback through a 725-acre spread. The down-home, friendly atmosphere keeps folks coming back year after year. Rates are $150 per night for adults, $60 to $110 for children depending on age.
Tubing on the Medina River and soaking in a hot tub are among the many activities at the Mayan Ranch (www.mayanranch.com; 830/796-3312 or 830/460-3036), another well-established family-run operation ($170 per adult, $80–$100 per child). The ranch provides plenty of additional Western fun for its guests during high season—things like two-step lessons, cookouts, hayrides, singing cowboys, or trick-roping exhibitions.
The Silver Spur Guest Ranch, 9266 Bandera Creek Rd. (www.silverspur-ranch.com; 830/796-3037 or 460-3639), offers the best of both worlds: creatures and creature comforts. Horses, longhorn cattle, miniature donkeys, and pygmy goats are among the four-legged residents of the 300-acre spread, while a Healing Studio provides a serene space for treatments like aromatherapy. The ranch, which abuts the Hill Country State Natural Area (p. 138), also boasts the region’s largest swimming pool and a great kids’ play area. There are several different rates: You can go for all-inclusive ($130–$170 adults, $50–$95 children), non-riding ($110–135/$50–$85), or breakfast-only ($55–$105/$20–$55) plans.
Bandera Nightlife
Bandera has a lot of rustic, often loud, honky-tonks. If you’re in town on an off night, you can chew the fat in peace with some of the other patrons. On Friday and Saturday, there’s usually live music, so come prepared to dance.
One popular joint is Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Bar, 308 Main St. ( 830/796-8826), downstairs below the Bandera General Store. A well-known figure in Texas country music, Arkey has written songs for some of the biggest names in the state, including Willie Nelson. Sawdust is strewn on the floor to provide a better surface for boot scootin’. On a table in one of the corners, you can see where Hank Williams, Sr., carved his name. Just down the street, the Chikin Coop, 401 Main St. ( 830/796-4496), is so named because it used to have chicken wire in place of windows. It has live music on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, everything from rockabilly to Western swing. In addition to concerts, some by national recording stars, the 11th Street Cowboy Bar, 307 11th St. (www.11thstreetcowboybar.com; 830/796-4849), is known for its Wednesday steak nights: You bring your own meat, the bar provides the barbecue grills, utensils, and spices—and sells side dishes.
Comfort
16 miles NW of Boerne; 48 miles NW of San Antonio
Situated about halfway between Boerne and Kerrville, the quirky town of Comfort was founded in 1854 on the banks of the Cypress Creek by German freethinkers and agnostics (the town’s first church wasn’t built until 1900). The town’s founders were also opposed to slavery, and sided against the Confederacy in the Civil War. Look for the Treu de Union (Loyalty to the Union) monument in the center of town (High St., between Second and Third sts.), which honors 68 townsmen who were killed by Confederate soldiers in the 1862 Battle of Nueces.
The rough-hewn limestone buildings in the center of Comfort may contain the most complete 19th-century business district in Texas. Noted San Antonio architect Alfred Giles designed several of the structures. These days, most of the buildings, especially those on High Street, host an eclectic array of shops, such as The Elephant Story, 723 High St. (www.the-elephant-story.com; 830/995-3133), a nonprofit selling merchandise—everything from sleep masks to pen holders—to benefit elephant conservation in Asia. Christy’s Boutique, 704 High St. (
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