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cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

      Few sprigs fresh basil, finely chopped

      2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

      2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

      Salt and freshly ground black pepper

      Mix all the ingredients together, cover and chill until required.

      Sweet and sour brown tamarind chutney

      100g/4oz tamarind purée

      50g/2oz dates, pitted

      50g/2oz brown sugar

      ½ onion, chopped

      1 teaspoon garam masala

      chilli powder, to taste

      black salt (kala namak) or white sea salt, to taste

      Grind the ingredients in a blender or food processor, adding just enough water to make a smooth purée.

      Thai chilli paste

      3–4 bird’s eye chillies, halved and deseeded

      2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted

      1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted

      2–3 cardamom pods

      2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

      2 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

      2cm/¾in piece fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

      3 kaffir lime leaves, central vein removed and finely shredded

      2 Tbsp vegetable oil

      1 tsp fish sauce

      1 large handful fresh coriander leaves and stalks

      soy sauce

      Makes 4–5 Tbsp

      Chop the dried chillies into 1cm/½in pieces and soak in warm (boiled) water until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain well.

      Heat a small frying pan over high heat. Add the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and cardamom pods and toast until they pop and are fragrant, 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Grind in a mortar with a pestle.

      Combine all of the remaining ingredients, except for the soy sauce, in a food processor and pulse until combined. Add enough soy sauce to make a slightly runny paste.

      The paste is best the day it’s made, but if you cover the surface directly with clingfilm it will keep in the fridge for up to one week.

      White onion paste

      1kg/2.2lb white onion, coarsely chopped

      50ml/2fl oz vegetable oil

      Makes about 400g/14oz when puréed

      Fry or bake the onions until they caramelize. Blend the onions and their oil down to a purée using a little water as needed.

      Basic savoury white sauce

      45g/1½oz butter

      45g/1½oz plain flour

      600ml/20fl oz milk

      Salt and freshly ground black pepper

      Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and stir until smooth. Cook gently for 2 minutes, stirring, until bubbling. Remove from the heat and gradually stir in the milk. Return to a moderate heat and bring to the boil, stirring continuously, and cook gently for about 3 minutes. Add seasoning to taste and serve.

      For a cheese sauce – add 125g/4oz grated mature Cheddar and ¼ tsp dry mustard powder.

      For a herb sauce – add 4 Tbsp assorted finely chopped herbs, such as parsley, chives or sage.

      Quick classic tomato sauce

      3 Tbsp tomato purée

      1 tsp dried basil

      1 tsp dried oregano

      ½ tsp caster sugar

      ½ tsp salt

      ½ tsp dried chilli flakes

      ½ tsp crushed black pepper

      2 cloves garlic, finely chopped (optional)

      Makes 500ml/18fl oz

      Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl or measuring jug and use immediately, or cover and either refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze.

      Basic crêpe batter

      125g/4oz plain flour

      30g/1oz caster sugar (optional)

      1 pinch salt

      2 whole eggs

      2 egg yolks

      300ml/10fl oz milk

      75g/2oz unsalted butter, melted

      Makes 12 crêpes

      Combine the flour, sugar, if using, and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and break in the eggs then add the extra yolks. Add half the milk and gradually work into the flour using a whisk. Beat lightly until smooth, taking care not to over-mix.

      Add the remaining milk gradually, whisking gently until well combined. Transfer to a jug, cover loosely and leave in a cool place for 30 minutes. Stir 60g/2oz melted butter into the batter before using.

      Lightly brush a small frying pan – 15cm/6 in diameter base – with a little of the remaining butter and heat until hot. Holding the pan, pour in about 50ml/2fl oz batter and tilt the pan from side to side so that it runs into a thin, even layer across the bottom of the pan.

      Place the pan over moderate heat and cook for about 1 minute, or until the crêpe browns around the edges and begins to curl away from the pan. Slide a palette knife under the crêpe and flip it over. Brown the underside for a further minute.

      Turn out on to a wire rack lined with a clean tea towel and baking parchment. Fold the paper and towel over the crêpe to keep it moist. Continue to make a further 11 crêpes, brushing the pan with melted butter as necessary, gently stirring the batter each time it is used, and stacking the cooked crêpes between sheets of parchment, until you are ready to serve.

      Basic pancake batter

      125g/4oz plain flour

      1 pinch salt

      1 egg

      300ml/10fl oz milk

      Vegetable oil

      Makes 8 pancakes

      Combine the flour and salt in a bowl, make a well in the centre and break in the egg. Add half the milk and gradually work into the flour using a whisk. Beat lightly until well combined and smooth. Add the remaining milk gradually, whisking gently until the batter has the consistency of pouring cream. Transfer to a jug, cover loosely and leave in a cool place for 30 minutes. Never leave the batter longer than 1 hour, unless covered and refrigerated, otherwise it will start to ferment.

      Lightly brush a medium frying pan – 20cm/8in diameter base – with vegetable oil and heat until hot. Pour away any excess oil – the pan should be practically dry. Holding the pan, pour in about 4 Tbsp batter into the middle of the pan then tilt the pan from side to side so the batter runs into a thin, even layer across the bottom of the pan.

      Place the pan over moderate heat and cook for about 1½ minutes, or until the pancake browns around the edges and begins to curl away from the pan. Slide a palette knife under the pancake and flip

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