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BEVEL ANGLE

       The Correct Bevel Angle

       Honing a Hollow-Ground Bevel

       How an Edge Dulls

       Factory-Ground Blade Angles

       5. SHAPE OF THE BLADE EDGE

       Plane Geometry, a Summary

       6. LENGTH OF PLANE/WIDTH OF BLADE

       The Proportion of Length to Width

       CHAPTER 4: TRADITIONAL USE: THE BENCH PLANES

       JACK, JOINTER & SMOOTHER—AND A COUPLE MORE USEFUL PLANES

       THE JACK PLANE

       The Fore Plane

       THE JOINTER PLANE

       Trying, Long, and Jointer

       The Correct Blade Shape

       SMOOTHING PLANES

       The Ideal Edge Shape

       Chinese Smoothers

       Why a Narrow Smoother?

       A COUPLE MORE PLANES

       DIMENSIONING STOCK

       Winding Sticks

       OTHER HANDPLANE PREPARATORY WORK

       SHOOTING AN EDGE

       Techniques for Shooting an Edge

       CHAPTER 5: SHARPENING PLANE BLADES

       A BASIC SKILL THAT LEADS TO OTHERS

       BEVEL SHAPE

       GRINDING

       Grinding Out a Nick

       Grinding on a Sanding Belt

       SHARPENING STONES

       Using and Maintaining Waterstones

       Stone Choices

       Listening

       TECHNIQUE

       Notes on Sharpness and Sharpening

       Sharpening

       CHAPTER 6: HOLDING THE WORK

       OF SLAVES, DOGS, AND DEADMEN

       A Simple Bench

       CHAPTER 7: SETTING UP THE PLANES

       AND TUNING THEM TO WORK TO THEIR FULLEST

       SETTING UP A TRADITIONAL WOODEN PLANE

       The Back of the Blade

       Flattening the Back of a Plane Blade

       Checking for a Custom Fit

       Marking

       What Really Happens

       General Techniques for Adjusting the Plane Blade

       Adjusting a Wedged, Tapered Blade

       A Twisted Plane

       The Oiler

       Getting Rid of Those Burnishing Marks

       Fitting a Sole Plate at the Mouth of a Plane

       Setting Up a Flea Market Find

       SETTING UP CHINESE PLANES

       Check the Brass Mouth-piece

       TROUBLESHOOTING

       Efficient Planing

       Keep Your Eyes on the Prize

       Keep the Surface Flat

       CHAPTER 8: MAKING & MODIFYING PLANES

       EXPANDING YOUR OPTIONS

       MAKING TRADITIONAL WOODEN-BODY PLANES

       Handle Shape

       Fitting a Moveable Sole Plate

       Fitting a Moveable Sole Plate When Making a Krenov-Style Plane

      INTRODUCTION

       You may ask yourself: Why bother?

      I mean, when we have so many other beautiful planes to choose from that could certainly do the job well enough? Planes we are probably more familiar with, marvelously mechanical metal planes of proven reliability. And other styles of planes as well, both beautiful and functional.

      Well, simply put, if you’ve got a lot of work to do in solid hardwood, the traditional wood plane excels at efficiently working hardwoods and is better at this than any other style of plane.

      Say you have a large plank, maybe a live edge board for a tabletop, and it’s too big to fit in your jointer. The traditional jack plane—maybe preceded by a scrub plane, used with the correct technique—is light, low in friction, comfortable in the hands, and will quickly take the high spots off, leveling one face of the board sufficiently to get good registration through the planer. Or maybe your planer isn’t big enough either. Traditional wood handplanes, used in the traditional sequence, with the blades correctly shaped and with appropriate blade angles, will make this job doable.

      Or say you have a nice piece of figured hardwood that just wants to tear up when you go to work it. Only with a high-end two-drum sander will you get results that won’t take hours of sanding to get rid of the ripples, variations at changes in hardness, and streaking that the nonindustrial sanders tend to leave. Again, use of traditional wood handplanes, used in sequence

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