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      3.3 Reel mowers

      The reel mower is a specialty item. They are expensive, require more knowledge and skill to use, and are finely calibrated, high-maintenance pieces of equipment. For these reasons it is not a good idea to start out with a reel mower if you have never used one before.

      Reel mowers are often used on golf course putting greens. The precision of the cut is exquisite, and you may find that as your business grows and you take on higher-end clients, they may request their lawn be cut with this style of mower. If you do purchase one, make sure the dealer has the expertise in-house to sharpen and calibrate the mower properly.

      Cutting width: From 20 to 27 inches cutting width on standard walk-behinds.

      Number of blades: There are usually either five or seven blades on the cutting reel. The more blades, the better the cut.

      Best names: California Trimmer, Tru-Cut.

      Author’s recommendation: Tru-Cut C25H7 (25 inch) or C27H7 (27 inch).

       How to Sharpen Your Lawn Mower Blade:

      • A dull mower blade can slow you down significantly and, in serious cases, can also distract from an otherwise beautifully kept lawn. You can tell if the blade needs sharpening by looking closely at the grass. If the ends are rough and turn brown after a day or two, you are using a dull blade. As a professional mower, you should sharpen your blades daily. You will need a bench grinder, a crescent wrench, and a socket wrench or similar tool to remove bolts.

      • Safety first! Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug.

      • Remove the blade. You may need a squirt or two of WD-40 or other oil to loosen it up. Use a blade holder, a block of wood, or, if nothing else, your foot to stop the blade from moving as you remove the bolt(s) that hold the blade on.

      • Note the angle of the blade. You’ll want to try and maintain that angle. If the angle is too sharp, you’ll get a great cut for the first cut or two, but it will quickly dull. If the angle is not sharp enough, your cut will suffer, although the blade will wear more slowly.

      • Check the blade for straightness. A bent blade cannot be repaired, and using it could be dangerous. If you think the blade is bent, throw it out.

      • Start up your grinder and move the blade back and forth lightly on the grinding wheel. The first inch on either side of the blade does most of the work, so work particularly on those areas. Try to maintain the original angle. Don’t press the blade too heavily onto the wheel. Don’t stay in the same spot on the blade for too long. If the blade gets too hot, it will lose its hardness.

      • Don’t try to grind all the nicks and cuts out of the blade; a few nicks are acceptable. If there are many nicks or actual gouges, the blade should be replaced.

      • Use a simple cone-shaped blade balancer to see if the blade is weighted properly. If it doesn’t balance, take a little more metal off the heavy side and try again. An unbalanced blade causes excessive vibration and unpleasant cutting.

      • Use a wire brush or a file to remove any excess burrs or slivers. Then reinstall the blade.

      4. Power Equipment

      4.1 Line Edgers

      One of my favorite magazine ads showed a man driving in his pickup truck. His dog was in the box of the truck and in the passenger seat was a Shindaiwa T-27 trimmer. That ad pretty well sums up the kind of relationship you can expect to have with your line edger.

      Keep the following points in mind as you select a line edger, also known as a string trimmer, line trimmer, weed whacker, or weedeater.

      Power and size: You should consider power and size together because they are directly related. Powerful line edgers are great when you need them, but if you are trimming for four hours out of the day, you may want to trade off a little power for less weight and less fatigue. The ideal, and your eventual goal, is to have both a heavy-duty and a light-duty edger available for whatever job comes along.

      The more powerful line edgers put out about 1.5 to 1.8 horsepower and weigh 12 or 13 pounds. Lighter commercial edgers weigh in at about 9 pounds, at the cost of 0.5 horsepower or so. If you want a heavy-duty model and are concerned about the weight, use a shoulder harness to reduce the load.

      Shaft: Avoid curved shafts (also called flex shafts). They are not designed to be used for long periods (you will feel it in your back). Look for the straight-shaft models.

      Head: Different brands use different names to describe their heads (the business end of your line edger). Variations of “tap and go” are the most common and probably the best. With this style, the line comes out only when you tap the head on the ground while it is spinning. There are also intelligent or “smart heads” that automatically give you more line when the edger senses, based on centrifugal force, that the line is short.

      Best names: Shindaiwa, Echo, Redmax, Stihl, Husqvarna.

      Author’s recommendation: Shindaiwa T-27, 1.5 horsepower, 12.3 pounds.

      4.2 Blade Edgers

      A blade edger, also known as a stick edger, is used for trimming along sidewalks and possibly garden beds.

      Power and size: Blade edgers come in a variety of sizes. The unit weight goes up with the horsepower. If you are blade edging regularly, a lighter model is suitable. You will need a heavy-duty model if you take on jobs where sidewalks have not been edged in some time or if blade edging is a service that you offer less frequently (i.e., monthly or quarterly). In these situations, the accumulation of grass and soil along the sidewalk may require a little more horsepower to cut through.

      Consider getting a multi-head tool for maximum versatility, allowing you to use one machine as a blade edger, a hedge trimmer, a pole saw, and a line edger. Each head is sold separately.

      Best names: Shindaiwa, Echo, Redmax, Stihl, Husqvarna.

      Author’s recommendation: Redmax EXZ2500S-BC multi-head system.

      4.3 Blowers

      It is possible to get by without a blower for a while. You can use a broom instead, but the investment in a blower will pay off quickly in saved time.

      You can get a handheld or a backpack blower. A handheld blower is light duty; it will suffice if you will be using it just to blow grass off sidewalks. However, you will likely want to use your blower for much more than that, in which case you will want the backpack style.

      There are many blowers on the market, and while each has its own nuances, they are all pretty much the same. As you shop for a blower, keep in mind the following options:

      Power: There are heavy-duty blowers available that pack a bit more punch if you feel you will need it.

      Trigger: A locking throttle trigger is important. If you have to hold the throttle in position all the time, it will cause finger and wrist fatigue.

      Ergonomics: All new mowers have a handle on the blower tube. If you have an old one without a handle, you should be able to buy a kit to install one. Wrist fatigue will set in fast without this option.

      Best names: Shindaiwa, Echo, Redmax, Stihl, Husqvarna.

      Author’s recommendation: Redmax EB7000.

      4.4 Hedge Trimmers

      A power hedge trimmer falls into the “nice to have” category, as you can certainly get by with shears when you are first starting your business. Make some room in your budget as soon as you can, though, as a hedge trimmer

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