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866/531-6213), the famous fly-fishing supplier and manufacturer based in Manchester (see box p. 482). The shop’s ½- to 2-day classes ($140–$489 per person per day, with occasional two-for-one deals) include instruction in knot-tying and casting, plus some catch-and-release fishing on a company pond and the Battenkill River. Classes are held from late April until mid-October. Room rate discounts are sometimes available at the Equinox Resort (see p. 488) for visiting Orvis students.
Where to Stay in the Bennington/Manchester Area
The choices below mostly fall into the “luxury country inn” category, but there are plenty of other options in this valley, too.
Arlington
West Mountain Inn Sitting atop a grassy bluff at the end of a dirt road a half-mile from Arlington center, this rambling, mid–19th-century white-clapboard farmhouse with the stone walkway has an immediate visual appeal that practically shouts “Vermont inn.” Guest rooms, named for famous Vermonters, are nicely furnished in country antiques (some have canopied beds) and Victorian reproductions; they vary widely in size and shape, but even the smallest has lots of charm and character. (No rooms have phones, the idea being that you’re here to get away from it all.) The expansive Rockwell Kent Suite offers a four-poster canopy bed in a very wood-paneled bedroom, plus a wood-burning fireplace in a sitting room with French-style couches. A delightful little wood cottage in back has been divided up into three units (the living room is shared among guests), and three town houses have been carved out of a former millhouse on the grounds. These feature TVs, river views and, in one, a kitchen. A century–old post-and-beam barn is often rented for weddings and reunions, and the 150 acres of meadows invite exploring. In addition to the included breakfast (which you can skip for a discount in the town houses), the dining room also serves hearty regional dinners nightly in a wood-paneled dining room.
River Rd. (at Rte. 313), Arlington. www.westmountaininn.com. 802/375-6516. 20 units. $175–$305 double. Rates include full breakfast (except for town houses). 2-night minimum stay Fri–Sat or Sat–Sun. Amenities: Restaurant; kitchenette (some units); Wi-Fi (in inn units; free).
Bennington
The Four Chimneys Inn This 1912 Colonial Revival catches your eye as you roll into Bennington from the west; it’s right at the edge of Old Bennington, and the towering Bennington Monument looms just over its shoulder. Set back from Route 7 on 11 landscaped acres, the three-story mansion features—no surprise—four prominent chimneys. Guest rooms are divided among the main inn, an ice house, and a carriage house; they’re serene, airy, and uncluttered, with color-coordinated wallpaper and upholstered furniture. Some units sport wood-burning fireplaces burning real wood, and many have nice Jacuzzis, four-poster beds, and/or mountain views from patios. Room no. 11 has a private glassed–in porch and more windows than most of the other units; the brick carriage house (room no. 9) has a cathedral ceiling. Room no. 8, in the ice house, is a two-level affair with exposed brick walls, a circular wooden staircase, and a gas fireplace. The inn is a popular wedding venue—among couples who married here are the owners, Pete and Lynn Green.
21 West Rd. (Rte. 9, just west of downtown), Bennington. www.fourchimneys.com. 802/447-3500. 11 units. $129–$399 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay foliage and holiday weekends. Children 12 and over accepted. Amenities: Dining room; full bar; Wi-Fi (free).
Paradise Inn Bennington’s best motel justifies its upscale name with furnishings and amenities that match its higher-than-most-motels rates. It’s clean, well-managed, and within walking distance of town. Tidy, generously sized accommodations are further bolstered by such surprising features as kitchenettes in some suites, a tennis court, and a heated pool. The very central location and neighborhood views aren’t bad, either. Try to reserve a spot in the North Building, in spite of its unprepossessing exterior—each unit has an outdoor terrace or balcony. The more up-to-date Office Building is done in Colonial Revival style.
141 W. Main St., Bennington. www.vermontparadiseinn.com. 800/575-5784 or 802/442-8351. 77 units. $80–$175 double; $125–$240 suite. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; heated outdoor pool; tennis court; Wi-Fi (free in lobby and some units).
South Shire Inn A locally prominent banking family hired architect William Bull in 1880 to design and build this Victorian home, with leaded glass on its bookshelves and intricate plasterwork in the main dining room. Five guest rooms in the main inn building are furnished with handsomely carved canopy or poster beds and working fireplaces (burning Duraflame logs, not wood); the two best rooms here are probably the former master bedrooms (Otto and Gold), with their king beds and tile-hearth fireplaces. Four newer, more modern guest rooms—with such names as Jim Dandy—are located in an adjacent carriage house. They each sport extra amenities and lovely exposed pine flooring (rooms in the main inn have all been carpeted). All four of these rooms have televisions with DVD players, ceiling fans, and Jacuzzis.
124 Elm St., Bennington. www.southshire.com. 802/447-3839. 9 units. $125–$185 double; foliage season $155–$265 double. Rates include breakfast. 2-night minimum stay during foliage season. Not appropriate for children. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).
Dorset
Barrows House Just a short stroll from Dorset village, this compound of eight venerable buildings is set on 12 leafy acres. The 1784 main house has welcomed travelers since 1900; in keeping with its pedigree, rooms have a timeless, quiet elegance, and have been completely renovated—along with public areas—following a recent ownership change. Some units have gas or wood fireplaces, while several cottages (one of which doubles as the pool house) offer additional space and privacy for families. If you’re looking for old Vermont charm, this is the place; if not, some of the more luxe quarters in Manchester village might be a better option. The inn’s superb restaurant and tap room (p. 490) feature menus built largely on locally sourced fare, including Vermont craft beers and cheeses.
3156 Rte. 30, Dorset. www.barrowshouse.com. 802/867-4455. 28 units. $185–$295 double; $235–$355 suite and cottage; $355–$465 luxury suite. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; bikes; heated outdoor pool; sauna; 2 tennis courts; Wi-Fi in limited areas (free).
Dorset Inn Set in the center of genteel Dorset, this three-story former stagecoach stop built in 1796 claims to be the oldest continuously operating inn in Vermont. Anyplace with two dozen rooms stretches the definition of “inn,” but we’ll make an exception for an establishment exuding this much sedate, time-burnished elegance. Prices are surprisingly reasonable given the competition in Manchester, and the Bryant family—who also own Dorset’s Barrows House (see above) and the Mountain Top Resort in Chittenden (p. 515)—have upgraded everything from room decor to the restaurant. Guest rooms, some located in a well-crafted addition next door that dates from the 1940s, are named for famous local people
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