Journey Through the Philippines - Kiki Deere Journey Through

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in the frenetic capital differs hugely from village life, where houses are traditionally constructed of nipa (palm tree). In Batanes, a cluster of islands to the far north that forms the remotest province of the country, houses are built of stone to withstand the destructive force of typhoons. The Spanish influence on Philippine architecture is evident in provincial areas, where colonial plazas dominated by Spanish brick churches lie at the heart of most towns. Over 80 percent of Filipinos are devout Roman Catholics, while Sunni Islam is practiced in Mindanao.

      The Cordillera Mountains in northern Luzon form the tribal heartland of the country, with dozens of ethnic groups maintaining age-old traditions and beliefs. More and more youngsters are migrating from rural areas to the cities because of better job prospects and an improved quality of life, with less and less young people willing to work in agriculture.

      Filipino families are close-knit, with extended families often living together. It is not unusual for single aunts, uncles and grandparents to live with other family members, and nephews and nieces are often referred to as one’s own children. Families always gather together to celebrate important holidays, birthdays and anniversaries, with Sundays usually a time for extended families to meet.

      A dancer at Cebu’s Sinulog Festival carries a figurine of the Santo Niño, or Baby Jesus.

      Miss Philippines 2013 joins the annual Santacruzan, also known as Flores de Mayo, a religious festival and beauty pageant.

      Two men enjoy a game of chess as a young woman plays the violin in Burnham Park, Baguio City.

      The Filipino diaspora is one of the largest in the world, with around a million Filipinos leaving the country every year to work abroad as nurses, engineers, teachers and domestic helpers. Remittances pour in, helping keep the country afloat, with many families relying on their relatives abroad to support them.

      The country has two official languages: Filipino and English. The former, based on the Tagalog dialect from Luzon, is used to communicate among ethnic groups. Foreign words have been adapted into Filipino over time, and it’s not uncommon to hear English or Spanish words sprinkled in everyday speech. There are seven other languages that are widely used in the archipelago, including Cebuano and Bicolano, along with over 176 local dialects. As a result of American colonization, American English is taught in schools and is the preferred language for print and broadcast media, business, movies, courts and government administration. The majority of Filipinos are bilingual, and can read, write and speak fluently in English.

      A driver and his passengers on a habal habal, a motorbike with seats extended sideways, often used as a taxi service in areas with steep, narrow roads.

      Filipino children pose for a photo outside a sari-sari convenience store.

      A fisherman returns from a successful early-morning fishing trip.

      Blood Sport

      Sabong, or cockfighting, has a long history in the country. It had been a part of daily life long before the Spaniards arrived in the Philippines in 1521. It is today a favorite national pastime, and is commercially one of the biggest industries in the country. With over 2,500 cockfighting pits in the Philippines, the sport kills 30 million roosters every year. Birds are bred to fight from a young age, with trainers helping develop and strengthen the muscles on their wings. During fights roosters wear sharp, dagger-like knives on their limbs in order to maim and kill their opponent. In the arena all are equal: millionaires mingle with common folk, and losing is not taken lightly—seeing one’s rooster die in battle is seen as a loss of one’s manhood.

      Cockfights are the country’s most popular sport, drawing in huge crowds.

      FILIPINO FOOD

      A NATION-WIDE OBSESSION

      Food has tremendous importance for Filipinos. Eating fewer than three meals a day (plus snacks in between) is seen as unnatural. Filipino food is not well-known outside the country, but is actually one of Asia’s most exciting cuisines—with plenty of variety, from simple grilled dishes to complex stews and delicious desserts. Trade and colonialization have resulted in Malay, Chinese, Spanish and American influences.

      Filipinos will assume you’re unwell if you don’t partake in all five daily repasts. In between the three daily meals merienda (a snack) is eaten. Nearly a meal in itself, it consists of rice and other staples, along with a selection of sweet courses. There are no knives—spoons are used instead.

      Steamed rice forms the basis of each dish, often accompanied by grilled fish and vinegar sauce. Seafood, including squid, crab and prawn, is particularly good, and readily available in most coastal areas. Sinigang, a delicious tamarind-based soup, features on most menus, while pancit (Chinese noodles) are also very common. Fried or barbecued chicken is another key staple, along with the ubiquitous pork. Adobo is the country’s national dish: a dish of pork or chicken stewed in soy sauce, garlic, bay leaf and black pepper. Lechón, roasted suckling pig, is enjoyed on special occasions.

      One of the delicacies in Mountain Province in northern Luzon is pinikpikan, a chicken dish whose name translates as “killing me softly”. The chicken is beaten slowly with a stick until it dies; the blood rises to the surface, allegedly making the meat more tender.

      The Bicol region in southern Luzon is famed for having some of the best cuisine in the country, with chili peppers and coconut milk featuring heavily in most dishes. The popular Bicol Express, named after a passenger train service from Manila to Bicol, consists of pork cooked in coconut milk, soy and vinegar with chilies. Another popular bicolano dish is laing, made with taro leaves simmered in coconut cream and served with chili peppers.

      Vegetables do not feature as part of the main meal, and are often served as a side dish. Tropical fruits are available year-round, including durian, jackfruit, mangosteen, pineapple, bananas, sugar apple, watermelon and juicy mangoes, said to be the sweetest in the world.

      Today, fast-food restaurants are ubiquitous (Jollibee is one of the most popular chains), and Coca-Cola is now consumed widely, a legacy of the American occupation.

      Street food is popular among Filipinos at all times of day.

      A woman sells an assortment of foodstuffs at a stall in Antipolo in Rizal province.

      A young boy wearing a sombrero enjoys a refreshing coconut drink.

      An assortment of foodstuffs at a street market in Taguig City, Manila.

      In coastal areas seafood is often served on a banana leaf platter accompanied by a side of rice.

      Children inspect lechón, roasted suckling pig that is a national delicacy.

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