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cup (60 g) thinly sliced lemongrass

      10 whole black peppercorns

      Three 1/2-in (3-mm) thick slices galangal, shredded

      3 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped

      3 cloves garlic

      2 fresh coriander roots

      1 teaspoon toasted coriander seeds

      1 teaspoon kaffir lime zest

      1 teaspoon shrimp paste

      1 teaspoon salt

      1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

      1/2 cup (125 ml) water

      1 Soak the dried chilies in cold water for 20 minutes, then squeeze dry.

      2 Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high until smooth.

      3 Paste may be refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.

      Note: Vegetarians can substitute 1 tablespoon bean paste (tao jiao) for the 1 teaspoon shrimp paste.

      Red curry paste is particularly versatile, and makes a delicious addition to dry curries, fish cakes, fried rice, and Steamed Seafood Curry (page 96). It adds flavor to the peanut sauce for Chicken Satay (page 34)—though be careful to reduce the number of chilies for making the sauce. This recipe is for a basic red curry paste. Unused portions may be stored for up to two weeks in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.

      Green curry paste can be as spicy as red, but the coriander leaves lend it a subtly herbal flavor.

      Preparation time: 5 MINUTES

      Makes 1 CUP (225 G)

      5 fresh dark green Thai finger chilies or jalapeños

      3 shallots, peeled and quartered

      3 cloves garlic, peeled

      Three 1/8-in (3-mm) thick slices galangal, shredded

      1/4 cup (50 g) thinly sliced lemongrass

      2 fresh coriander roots, coarsely chopped

      1 stem fresh coriander with leaves, coarsely chopped

      2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted

      1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted

      1 teaspoon coarsely chopped kaffir lime zest

      1 teaspoon salt

      1 teaspoon shrimp paste

      10 whole black peppercorns

      1/2 cup (125 ml) water

      Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend on high until smooth. Store any unused paste in a sealed container in the fridge for 1 week, or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

      Thai Pesto Paste

      Fresh coriander stems may be used if the roots are not available, although the flavor will not be exactly the same. This paste freezes well, so when you find fresh coriander with roots, make Thai Pesto and freeze it until needed. When a recipe calls for it, you can scoop out the amount you need and leave the remainder in the freezer for future use.

      Preparation time: 4 MINUTES

      Makes 2 HEAPING TABLESPOONS

      4 cloves garlic, peeled

      3 fresh coriander roots, including 3-in (7.5-cm) stems, coarsely chopped

      1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

      1/2 teaspoon salt

      Be sure the coriander roots are well washed and free of grit. Pound all ingredients with a mortar and pestle until they form a paste. Alternatively, purée in a blender with enough water to form a paste.

      Sweet and Hot Sauce Nam Jim

      Actually, in Thailand we don’t refrigerate this sauce, since the vinegar acts as a preservative and it’s used within a few days. However, it can be stored in the refrigerator in a tightly lidded container for several months. I’ve never tried to freeze it. This dip is great with stuffed chicken wings, barbecued chicken, and other Thai dishes that call for a sweet and hot sauce. Look for the fresh chili paste, also called sambal oelek, and Thai plum sauce, or nam buoi, in Asian markets or from online Asian grocers.

      Preparation time: 2 MINUTES

      Cooking time: 40 MINUTES

      Makes 2 CUPS (500 ML)

      1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

      1/2 cup (125 ml) water

      1/2 cup (125 ml) vinegar

      1/4 cup (60 ml) Thai plum sauce

      1 teaspoon ground fresh chili paste

      3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

      Combine the sugar, water, and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, and cook until the mixture starts to thicken, about 40 minutes. Add the plum sauce, chili paste, and garlic. Stir a few times, and remove from the heat to cool.

      Sriracha Chili Sauce Nam Prik Sriracha

      Thais serve this delicious sauce with many dishes, such as omelets and Crispy Mussel Pancakes (page 71). It is also good with grilled and deep-fried dishes. The commercial Sriracha sauce produced in Thailand, which differs from the version produced in California, is available in three levels of spiciness: mild, medium, and hot. The name of the sauce comes from the seaside village southeast of Bangkok where it is manufactured. This is my homemade version of this versatile condiment.

      Preparation time: 5 MINUTES

      Cooking time: 10 MINUTES

      Makes 11/2 CUPS (375 ML)

      1 cup (250 ml) water

      1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce

      1 tablespoon sugar

      9 fresh red finger chilies, coarsely chopped

      4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

      1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

      1/4 cup (60 ml) distilled white vinegar

      1 Combine the water, fish sauce, sugar, chilies, garlic and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook the mixture until the garlic and chilies are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

      2 Transfer the cooked ingredients to a blender. Add the vinegar and purée the mixture until smooth, about 1 minute. Stored in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator, this sauce should last indefinitely.

      Crispy Shallots or Garlic Hom Lek/Kratiam Jiao

      Thai-style fried shallots or fried garlic, imported from Thailand or Vietnam, are now available in Asian grocery stores. You can use the ready-made product, but the homemade version adds more flavor to your dishes. The shallots or garlic can be prepared in a microwave or fried in oil and drained on paper towels. Since microwaves vary in wattage, and shallots and garlic burn easily, monitor your cooking time carefully. Even after they are removed from the microwave, they will continue to cook.

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