Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 - John Smith

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Cantoni to the top of the Funivia Rosetta cable car. Image

      To complicate matters on this route you have a choice of length of day depending on experience, fitness levels, possible snow/ice conditions and the weather on the day. If attempting the route in a single day then try and be at the gondola when it opens at 0800hrs.

      This route is one of the finest in the Dolomites. It is a serious expedition at a high altitude on a high-grade ferrata, and as such is not a route for beginners.

      Access to the start of the route is made easy by using the gondola from San Martino di Castrozza to Colverde, 1970m; this operates in the summer from mid-June until the end of September and is open from 0800 to 1730hrs. (There are reductions for CAI, DAV and OeAV, as well as juniors and seniors.)

      Ascend from the Colverde gondola station on path 712/706, which is clearly signed and well waymarked (although the sign does say the route should only be climbed with a guide ‘Via Attrezzata B.Lugli Alla Spalla Del Cimon della Pala. Attenzione Percorribile Solo Con Guide Alpine’). The approach is on a good path rising up towards the red-coloured walls of Cimon della Pala. After 30–40 minutes’ ascent the junction of paths 712 and 706 is reached, at about 2100m. Path 706 continues uphill and in a further 15 minutes reaches the route memorial plaque for Via Attrezzata Bolver Lugli, 9 August 1970. However, the start of the protected route is still 35–40 minutes away, and this unprotected scrambling will test your head for exposure and sets the tone for the seriousness of the route.

      From the plaque follow red waymarks up a short rock scramble then zigzag up into a gully, and in about 5 minutes you reach a short section of cable at about 2400m. You can gear up here, but its not particularly worthwhile as you still have another 20 minutes of exposed uphill walking and unprotected scrambling before you reach the beginning of the cable protection at about 2580m; gear up here. Snow can lie here well into the season, and early in the summer may even obscure the cables.

      Easy (but at least now protected!) climbing leads up a gully to a steep move on good rock. After a short break in the cable at about 2620m, followed by a few more minutes’ scrambling, you arrive at the really good climbing. Cables lead up good rock trending rightwards then heading straight up. The situation here is superb with (if you are lucky enough to have clear weather) wonderful views, but if you were on the first lift at 0800 hours then you will still be in shade. This section of the climb is as good as ferratas get, with good cables, good rock and great views. After about 30 minutes’ climbing from the gear-up point (and about 2 hours from the top of the Colverde gondola) you reach a large flat ledge at about 2760m, which makes a very good break point.

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      Cima della Pala: VF Bolver Lugli ascends the middle wall to the right of the summit

      You climb up quite steeply from the large resting ledge and you should then be getting into the sun at last! Next comes a steep chimney, at about 2820m, followed by a climb up a steep wall with some stemples to help you for footholds. The cables then lead left into another gully (15–20 minutes from the large ledge), and then round a corner and through a gap at about 2870m.

      At about 2920m (25–30 minutes from the large ledge) climbing eases, and there is a large rock pinnacle on the right. The cables again lead left, and then Bivacco Fiamme Gialle comes in sight. The cable protection ends at about 2960m, and you now follow waymarks around an open bowl (probably snow early in the season) to walk to the bivacco. Your total time for ascent from the top of the gondola to here is about 3 hours.

      One of the shortest ways to complete the Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli is to retrace your steps from Bivacco Fiamme Gialle and descend back down the ferrata to the top of the Colverde gondola station for the return to San Martino di Castrozza. The descent of the ferrata to the memorial plaque takes about 2 hours, and then the descent to the gondola at Colverde 25–30 minutes. Total time for this option is 5½–6 hours.

      However, depending on the weather and snow conditions (especially early in the season) you have the opportunity to climb Cima della Vezzana (the highest peak in the Pala group of mountains). Follow waymarks and descend to Passo Travignolo, 2925m, which is 80m and about 10 minutes below Bivacco Fiamme Gialle. (Note that the direct descent into Val dei Cantoni from the Bivacco is not recommended owing to its extra steepness.) If you are not climbing Cima Vezzana, see the continuation below for the descent from Passo Travignolo. If you are doing the climb, a steep zigzag path (waymarked but often snow covered, requiring ice axe and crampons, especially early in the season) leads from Passo Travignolo to the summit to Cima Vezzana, 3192m – an ascent of 270m, for which you should allow 50–60 minutes. It goes without saying that the panorama from this high peak is absolutely superb. Note: a very long and demanding ‘Alpine’ day can be had by continuing from the summit of Cima della Vezzana to descend by Ferrata Gabitta d’Ignotti instead of returning by your ascent route. This route is S.MAR 2 below; if you combine it with S.MAR 1 then you should allow 11–12 hours for the complete circuit.

      Retrace your steps and descend from the summit Cima Vezzana by the ascent route to return to Passo Travignolo. To include time on the summit, allow about 2 hours for the return trip to the summit and back.

      The descent from Passo Travignolo down into Val dei Cantoni is down a steep snow slope, which in most years will last throughout the season. An ice axe is therefore essential, as are crampons, depending on the snow (or ice) temperature. A rope is also recommended. At the end of the snowfield follow the waymarks of path 716 continuing down the south side (right hand looking down) of Val dei Cantoni to a low point at about 2540m (30 minutes or so from Passo Travignolo). The path, which was heading south-east, now turns south-west for a reascent of 130m up to Passo Bettega, 2667m, which takes about 20 minutes. From Passo Bettega descend, still on path 716, to a path junction below Cima Corona. A path continues down very steeply for another 600m to the Colverde gondola, but this is not recommended, unless of course you are too late for the last cable car and don’t want to spend a night at Rif. Rosetta Pedrotti, 2581m (tel. 0439.68308, open 20 June – 20 September, 60 beds). However, to save your knees take the left branch of path 716 (low point about 2550m) towards Rif. Rosetta (25–30 minutes from Passo Bettega). Continue past the rifugio and up to the cable car Funivia Rosetta in a further 10 minutes. Allow a total time for the descent from Cima Vezzana to the cable car of about 2½ hours (about 2 hours from Passo Travignolo). If you have the time (and energy) the peak of La Rosetta, 2743m, above the cable car, can be climbed in 15 minutes; it has good views to the south of the Pala group.

      Via Ferrata Gabitta D’ignotti

Grade: 4
Seriousness: C
Departure point: San Martino di Castrozza
Ascent: 1300m
Descent: 1300m
Via ferrata: 150m
Approximate time: 9 hours
Highest altitude: 3192m
These timings and height statistics are for a climb of Via Ferrata Gabitta d’Ignotti, the ascent of Cima Vezzana via Val Strut and a return down Val dei Cantoni to the top of the Funivia Rosetta, assuming the use of the cable car both up and down.

      This route can be combined with route S.MAR 1 to make a really long but satisfying day out. Even to consider this excursion you must be fit, alpine experienced and lucky enough to be on the mountain in

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