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high in protein and more salty than white miso paste, which is sweeter and milder. Miso is used to enhance the flavor of soups, stocks and dressings, and as a grilling baste for meats and fish. Never boil miso as it will curdle and lose its flavor.

      Mushrooms are a vital ingredient in Japanese cuisine. Shiitake mushrooms are large and meaty, and used in soups, stir-fries and side dishes, or as a meat substitute. Dried Chinese mushroooms are a good substitute. Enoki mushrooms are clusters of slender, cream-colored stalks with tiny caps, available fresh or in cans. Discard the tough ends of the enoki mushroom before use.

      Mitsuba is a herb used in some soups and salads. It is often added to dishes as a garnish. Mitsuba stalks may be tied, dipped in batter, and deep-fried as tempura. It tastes similar to celery leaves and is sold in the refrigerator sections of supermarkets. It may be substituted with chervil.

      Noodles come in many different sizes and shapes in Japan. Udon noodles are made from wheat, and are either flat or round but generally quite thick. Packets of whitish-beige dried udon are available in supermarkets. Soba noodles are made from buckwheat, and are sometimes flavored with green tea. While soba noodles are available fresh in Japan, they are usually available only in dried form outside Japan.

      Nori is a type of seaweed pressed into very thin sheets and baked (yaki nori) or seasoned with sweetened soy sauce (ajitsuke nori). It is sold in rectangular sheets packed in bundles of 10. Yaki nori is used for making sushi rolls, while ajitsuke nori is served with rice or crisps as an appetizer. Before use, wave a nori sheet over an open flame for a few seconds so that it becomes lightly toasted, or toast briefly in a toaster oven.

      Pickled apricots or umeboshi are soaked in salt or brine, then dried in the sun. Red shiso leaves are often added during the pickling process to color the apricots. Pickled apricots are sold in jars or packets in supermarkets.

      Potato starch is similar to cornflour but is more readily dissolved in liquid without becoming lumpy. Cornflour is a good substitute, however.

      Red pickled ginger is made by pickling ginger slices first in salt, then in vinegar. This pickling process gives the ginger its distinctive color. It is sold in jars and used as a garnish.

      Rice wine vinegar is slightly sweeter and milder than cider or wine vinegars. It is used in making sushi rice, in dressings and as a basic seasoning. It may be substituted with apple cider vinegar.

      Sake is a brewed alcoholic beverage also known as japanese rice wine. Chinese rice wine or sherry may be used as a substitute.

      Sesame seeds are available in black and white varieties, although white seeds are more common. White sesame seeds are toasted and crushed to make sesame paste.

      Sesame oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producting a dark, dense and highly aromatic oil that can be used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment.

      Seven-spice pepper powder or shichimi togarashi generally includes a combination of black pepper, red chili, sesame seeds, green nori seaweed flakes, dried orange peels, Sichuan pepper pods and poppy seeds. It is sprinkled on noodles, one-pot meals and grilled items.

      Shiso leaves are large, flat green or reddish -green leaves that have a flavor similar to basil, mint and spearmint. Fresh basil, or a mix of fresh basil and spearmint, are the closest substitutes.

      Soy sauce is brewed from wheat, salt and soy beans.

      Dark soy sauce gives a slightly "smokey" flavor to a dish, while regular soy sauce is thinner and saltier.

      Tofu is a protein-rich food made from soybeans. It is sold packed in sealed plastic tubs or bags in the refrigerator sections of supermarkets. Tofu can vary greatly in firmness and flavor, and it is important to purchase the correct type called for in the recipes. Firm tofu retains its shape when sliced or cooked and has a slightly sour taste. Soft tofu, is slippery and extremely soft. It crumbles easily but has a smoother texture and milder flavor than firm tofu.

      Tonkatsu sauce is eaten with japanese-style pork cutlets. It tastes similar to steak sauce and usually contains Worcestershire sauce, tomato ketchup, soy sauce, mustard and sake. It is available in bottles in supermarkets. Steak sauce may be substituted.

      Dashi Stock

      6 cups (1.5 liters) water

      3 tablespoons dried bonito flakes

      3 fresh shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced

      2.5-cm (1-in) length of konbu seaweed, thoroughly washed

      1 Place the water, dried bonito flakes, mushrooms and konbu into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes or until the bonito flakes sink to the bottom.

      2 Drain the stock and set aside to cool. Store cooled Dashi Stock in the refrigerator until use, for not more than 3 days. Dashi Stock is used in the recipes for Classic Miso Soup with Tofu on page 8 and Braised Daikon Radish on page 20.

      Makes about 6 cups (1.5 liters) of stock

      Preparation time: 5 mins

      Cooking time: 15 mins

      Tempura Batter

      1 egg, lightly beaten

      3/4 cup (180 ml) iced water, adding extra as needed

      130 g (1 cup) tempura flour or 60 g (½ cup) cornflour mixed with 75 g (½ cup) flour

      1 To make the Tempura Batter, combine the egg and iced water in a bowl. Sprinkle half of the tempura flour over the top and whisk. Add the remaining tempura flour and mix until almost combined. The batter should still be a little lumpy. Tempura Batter is used in the recipes for Udon Noodles in Soup with Prawn and Vegetable Tempura Fritters on page 49 and Tempura Rice Broth on page 59.

      If the Tempura Batter settles while you are preparing the food, a new batch of batter must be made, since the batter that has settled does not yield crispy tempura. Therefore, try to prepare the Tempura Batter at the last minute, after all the other tempura ingredients are prepared and ready for frying.

      Tempura flour or tenpura ko, generally contains corn-flour, baking powder and wheat flour. It IS mixed with eggs, wheat flour and water to form a batter and is available as a powder sealed in foil or plastic packets in supermarkets.

      Preparation time: 5 mins

      Miso Soup with Clams

      150 g (5 oz) baby clams

      4 cups (1 liter) water

      4 dried shiitake or black Chinese mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, stems discarded and caps sliced

      2 teaspoons dashi powder

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