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      P E R I P L U S E D I T I O N S

       Singapore • Hong Kong • Indonesia

      Introduction

      There can be few places in the world where such a small country can offer such an exciting range of food. Singapore's location at the tip of the Asian mainland made it a natural crossroads throughout history. And when modern Singapore was founded in 1819, the policy of encouraging migrants from nearby Indonesia, as well as from China and India, ensured the mixture of flavours and cooking styles that is the hallmark of Singapore today.

      The majority of Singapore's population had its roots in southern China, so southern Chinese regional styles such as Hokkien, Teochew and Cantonese cooking predominate, as well as a number of popular Hakka dishes. The creativity of Chinese cuisine is world renowned. Using a number of basic seasonings (including soy sauce, salted soybeans, ginger, garlic and spring onions) Chinese cooks are able to transform even the most simple foodstuffs into a memorable meal.

      The Malays of Singapore, many of whose families came from Java, Sumatra or Malaya, use a wide range of spices and flavourings. Fresh roots such as ginger, turmeric and galangal; fragrant herbs like lemon-grass and kaffir lime leaf, and other seasonings including shallots and garlic are partnered with hot chillies to make richly flavoured, curry-like dishes. The soothing creaminess of coconut milk softens many Malay dishes, balancing the heat of the chillies.

      Singapore's Indian population originated primarily in the south of the subcontinent, and brought with them a number of styles of cooking, blending a vast array of spices to produce Hindu vegetarian cuisine, lavish Muslim dishes and a wide range of curries, rice dishes and breads.

      Living together for close to two centuries, Singaporeans have, to some extent, borrowed each other's cooking styles and ingredients, and a number of distinctively Singaporean dishes have evolved. These might have a Eurasian influence, or perhaps have been created by the Nonyas (Chinese women whose links with Singapore or what was Malaya go back many generations). Others may be an Indian cook's twist on a Chinese noodle dish, or a Chinese chef making the most of fresh chillies.

      This fascinating book introduces some of Singapore's favourite foods, dishes that are usually lovingly prepared at home as well as others which are more often enjoyed at the island nation's ubiquitous food courts.

      Basic Singapore Ingredients

      Bamboo shoots are used fresh, dried or canned in Asian cookery. Fresh shoots are sweeter and crunchier than canned ones. Peel, slice and boil them for about 30 minutes before using. Drain and boil canned bamboo shoots for 5 minutes to refresh them.

      Bangkuang is a globe-shaped tuber, tapered slightly at one end like a top, with a papery beige skin covering a crisp, white flesh. Sweet and juicy when small and young, they tend to become fibrous with age.

      Belachan is the Malay name for dried shrimp paste. Several types are found, ranging from very moist and black in colour to the light brown, crumbly shrimp paste popular in Malacca. Shrimp paste should be toasted before being used by dry-frying in a pan, placing the belachan on the back of a spoon and toasting it above a flame, or wrapping it in foil and grilling it.

      Dried black Chinese mushrooms must be soaked in hot water to soften before use, from about 15 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the thickness of the caps.

      Candlenuts are waxy, straw-coloured nuts that are ground to add texture and flavour to spice pastes and curry mixtures. raw cashews or macadamia nuts may be substituted.

      Chillies come in many shapes and sizes. The relatively large red or green finger chillies are commonly used in most Singapore dishes. Tiny bird's-eye chillies, also known as chili padi, provide more heat. Dried red chillies are sometimes preferred for the smoky flavour they give to cooked dishes.

      Coconut milk is made by mixing freshly grated coconut flesh with water and squeezing the liquid from the mixture. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water to 3 cups of grated fresh coconut (the flesh from one coconut). Squeeze and strain to obtain thick coconut milk. Add 625 ml (2 1/2 cups) water to the grated coconut and squeeze again to obtain thin coconut milk. Cans or packets of concentrated coconut milk make a good substitute; dilute according to the instructions for thick or thin coconut milk.

      Curry leaves are sold in sprigs of 12-16 small, slightly pointed green leaves. There is no substitute, although they are sometimes sold frozen.

      Dried prawns are best kept refrigerated in a humid climate. Look for brightly-coloured, plump prawns. Soak for about 5 minutes to soften.

      Galangal is an aromatic root used throughout most of Southeast Asia, known as lengkuas in Singapore and

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