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for thick coconut milk. If the more diluted Thai brand is used, purchase packets that are labeled "Thai coconut cream."

      Dried lotus seeds are commonly used in desserts. Most lotus seeds are sold with the bitter central core or endosperm already removed (if so, the seeds will have a narrow slit on both sides). Sometimes, there are a few rogues with the cores still intact, so check and if you see a dark greenish center at the top of the seed, split it open and flick out the core. Lotus seeds should be stored in an airtight container in the cupboard; they keep for many months.

      Glutinous rice is a variety of short grain rice which is sticky when cooked. Used in a number of dessert recipes throughout Thailand, it is also eaten as a staple with normal meals in North and Northeast Thailand. Two types of glutinous rice are commonly used: white and black. Glutinous rice needs to be soaked in water overnight or for at least 3 hours before boiling.

      Glutinous rice flour is made from white glutinous rice grains that are ground into a powder. It is stickier than normal rice flour after being cooked. Because of its chewy texture, glutinous rice flour is a favorite base for dumplings, buns and pastries. Glutinous rice flour made from black sweet rice is black or dark purple.

      Jackfruit is a large tropical fruit, often over 30 cm (12 in) across and over 50 cm (20 in) long, with a rough, bumpy skin. The unripe fruit is eaten as a vegetable and cooked in curries. The sweet ripe bright yellow fruit is eaten raw or cooked in desserts.

      Mung beans are small beans with a bright green seed coat. An important ingredient in Thai desserts, mung beans have a pale yellow seed inside. Mung beans are commonly used to make bean sprouts and as a source of starch for cellophane or glass noodles. They are most often sold shelled and sometimes split in dried form. Before using, soak the beans in cold water for several hours and then boil until tender.

      Palm sugar is made from the sweet sap harvested from cut flower buds of sugar or coconut palm trees. Palm sugar varies greatly in color, consistency and sweetness. This ranges from the soft, gooey and creamy beige type which is sold in plastic jars to the crystallized hard and dark brown palm sugar sold in round disks or blocks wrapped in clear plastic or dried leaves. The dark brown palm sugar is generally sweeter and more fragrant than the others, although all types can be used for most recipes. If you cannot find palm sugar, replace with dark brown sugar or maple syrup. Hard palm sugar should be shaved or grated into small chunks or melted in the microwave oven to measure before using. Store palm sugar in the same way as normal sugar.

      Pandanus leaves are long and slender blade-like dark green leaves of a member of the pandanus palm or screwpine family. They impart a sweet floral fragrance that is popular in Southeast Asian desserts. Their intense green color is also used as a natural food coloring. Look for fresh leaves. Pound or process a bunch of pandanus leaves in a blender with a little water, then strain through a fine sieve to obtain pandanus extract. Bottled pandanus essence is also available. The Thais use pandanus in the same way Westerners use vanilla in their cooking. Rose or vanilla essence can be used as a substitute.

      Rice flour is made from uncooked rice grains that are ground to a powder. It is used mainly in desserts. Fresh rice flour may be made by soaking rice grains overnight and then grinding it slowly in a blender. Dried rice flour is readily available in packets.

      Taro root is a starchy tuber that looks like and is used like a potato. It has a brown and hairy outer skin that must first be removed before cooking. Its flesh may be white, pink or purplish inside with the texture of a potato but a unique taste and flavor. It is normally boiled, baked, fried or steamed. In making Thai desserts, taro root is often boiled or steamed and then mashed into a paste. There are two kinds of taro—a larger one the size of a baseball and a miniature taro similar in size to a baby potato. Choose taro root that is firm and hairy. It may be stored in a cool and dry place for up to a week.

      Water chestnuts are tubers that resemble chestnuts in color and shape. They lend a sweet flavor and white crunchy texture to many dishes, especially desserts. This firm and crisp Chinese vegetable is available fresh, processed and canned. Choose firm, unblemished ones and peel off the black outer skin before using. Fresh water chestnuts can be stored refrigerated up to a week covered in water.

      Fragrant Rice Flour Puffs

      (Kanom Thaeu Foo)

      185 g (1 1/2 cups) rice flour

      2 teaspoons baking powder

      200 g (1 cup) sugar

      1 teaspoon fragrant pandanus, rose, vanilla or jasmine essence

      250 ml (1 cup) water

      1 drop green food coloring (optional)

      1 cup cake molds or ramekins, lined with cupcake papers

      1 Combine the rice flour, baking powder, sugar, fragrant essence and water in a mixing bowl and whisk until a smooth batter is obtained.

      2 Divide the batter into 2 equal portions. Color one portion green by adding the green food coloring and mixing until well blended. Leave the other portion as it is.

      3 Fill the cupcake papers 1/2 full with the batter. Place in a steamer and steam for 10 to 15 minutes until the cakes are puffed and cooked. Remove and set aside to cool.

      4 Serve at room temperature.

      Makes 18 puffs

      Preparation time: 10 mins Cooking time: 25 mins

      Taro Cakes with Fresh Fruit and Coconut Milk

      (Puak Gaown)

      1 kg (2 lbs) fresh taro root

      500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

      185 g (1 cup) shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar

      3/4 teaspoon salt

      1 teaspoon fragrant jasmine, pandanus, rose or vanilla essence

      1 baking dish

      Fresh fruit (rock melon, watermelon or other fruits of your choice), diced or balled (optional)

      1 Wash and rinse the taro root until clean. Boil or steam the root for about 30 minutes until tender. Remove from the heat, drain and set aside to cool. Peel and cut into small pieces.

      2 Blend the taro pieces to a smooth paste in a blender. Add 3/4 of the coconut milk, palm sugar, salt and fragrant essence, and blend until well combined.

      3 In a saucepan, heat the taro mixture over medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring continuously, until the mixture is thick and gluey. Remove from the heat and transfer to a greased baking dish (at least 5 cm/2 in deep). Set aside to cool.

      4 Cut the cake into the desired shapes, spread the remaining coconut milk on top and serve warm or at room temperature with fresh fruit.

      Serves 4 to 6

      Конец

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