LITMIR.BIZ

      An hour after leaving Calenzana, the GR20 and the Tra Mare e Monti part company at a junction on the hillside

      Go left to follow the GR20 and zigzag up past a couple of monstrous boulders beneath the rocky peaks of Capu di u Ravalente. The path crosses a rocky gap at 625m (2050ft) where small boulders make good seats. If you haven’t already learnt from painful experience, don’t sit down on the maquis, which here is a mixture of cistus and spiny broom. Take a last look back to Calenzana before it passes from view.

      The path is quite rugged as it descends a short way from the gap, passing beneath an overhanging rock with holm oaks growing in crevices. The surface is easier underfoot as the path contours along an old terrace high on the slope. Straggly barbed wire fencing runs alongside to the right, and the maquis is an exotic mix of aromatic species. The path rises to a few chestnut trees that draw moisture from a seasonal stream, the Ruisseau de Sambuccu, and it is clear that they have suffered a severe burning in the past. Bergeries can be seen on the valley sides, and the bongling bells of cattle or goats grazing in the maquis may be heard. The low-level track leading to Bonifatu can also be seen. Hopefully you won’t be wishing you were on it at this late stage!

      As it leaves the chestnut trees, the path is in an eroded rocky groove, but it levels out as it runs across the slope. The barbed wire fence is still visible on the right. Another stream called the Ruisseau d’Arghioa is crossed where tall laricio pines grow, and the path on either side of the watercourse is quite rocky. This is a fine place to fill up with water early in the summer, but it quickly dries away, leaving this whole stage waterless. Above the stream there is a pleasant grassy ledge at Arghioa, overlooking the valley from an altitude of 800m (2625ft). Those who reach this point within 1hr 30mins of leaving the GR20/TMM trail junction are doing fairly well.

      A zigzag path leads up past young pines and heather scrub on a steep and stony slope. The path is well graded and well marked at all the crucial turnings, although there are a couple of other paths that lead away on either side. Note the clumps of hellebores growing profusely in places. There is a rocky stretch where the path crosses a streambed at a higher level, then it swings right near a rocky pinnacle. There are more zigzags and a few tight squeezes where young pines and tall heather grow thickly between tall laricio pines on the higher slopes. Another series of zigzags leads above young pines and spiny broom scrub to reach a grassy gap, the Bocca a u Saltu, at 1250m (4100ft). Trekkers should reach this point 1hr 30mins after leaving Arghioa. There is a small drystone windbreak shelter to the left and the rocky spires of Capu Ghiovu to the right. Monte Corona is seen rising beyond the next gap.

      Watch carefully as the GR20 markers lead away from the gap. The path runs downhill around the base of a cliff, then rises gently between tall laricio pines. A bouldery zigzag path climbs up to a rocky slope, then a series of short scrambles must be completed. Watch carefully for the markers, which always indicate the easiest course. The pitches are very short and there are plenty of holds, but those carrying a full pack on their first full day will find getting their balance right more of a problem. There is very little sense of exposure because of the tall trees alongside, and there is often good shade as the slope faces north. Looking around, it is often possible to spot long-horned mouflon grazing along some of the ledges.